After removing the hood/gas tank I saw that all the wires were cut off of the light switch. The switch looks to be OK. It is the original switch . Not knowing what terminal does what I am not sure if it actually works, I checked the PDF files on this site and did not see a wire layout for the Cub.
Tracing the wires to the lamps I saw they were dryrotted and bare wire in places . Maybe that is why the wires were cut off at the switch.
I am replacing all the wires on the Cub and its a simple job but not knowing whos who on the switch has me stopped.
Anyone know whos who ?
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Light switch wireing.
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Re: Light switch wireing.
Check the Operator's Manual, electrical section. There is a pictorial of the back side of the instrument panel showing the location of the wires.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Light switch wireing.
It depends on which model that you have. If you look at the top of the page there is a link to the manuals the parts manual has the wire diagram. I have attached one of the pages.
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Re: Light switch wireing.
Hi,
He has a 1953 Cub, I think, so it would have the 3 position switch, and voltage regulator. Here's a pic of the rear of it so you can see the difference. They have the separate fuse.
He has a 1953 Cub, I think, so it would have the 3 position switch, and voltage regulator. Here's a pic of the rear of it so you can see the difference. They have the separate fuse.
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Re: Light switch wireing.
Bingo !
thats the switch. yes mine is a 53 so it has a remote mounted fuse. Am I correct in figureing the coil between the upper two terminals is a resistor of some sort. Its cut off also. If its is a resistor to dim the lights can I just put a jumper there , I dont see any need for a dimmer . I dont figure to running her at night plus those tiny 4 inch 6 volt lamps dont seem like they would need a dimmer Ha Ha Ha.
thanks for the pictures and info.
thats the switch. yes mine is a 53 so it has a remote mounted fuse. Am I correct in figureing the coil between the upper two terminals is a resistor of some sort. Its cut off also. If its is a resistor to dim the lights can I just put a jumper there , I dont see any need for a dimmer . I dont figure to running her at night plus those tiny 4 inch 6 volt lamps dont seem like they would need a dimmer Ha Ha Ha.
thanks for the pictures and info.
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Re: Light switch wireing.
Alan Gee wrote:Bingo !
thats the switch. yes mine is a 53 so it has a remote mounted fuse. Am I correct in figureing the coil between the upper two terminals is a resistor of some sort. Its cut off also. If its is a resistor to dim the lights can I just put a jumper there , I dont see any need for a dimmer . I dont figure to running her at night plus those tiny 4 inch 6 volt lamps dont seem like they would need a dimmer Ha Ha Ha.
thanks for the pictures and info.
Yes the coil wire is a resistor for dimming the front lights. I referred to an old post from Bigdog and he indicated on a 6v Cub it is a nickel-chrome 5 ohm wire wound resistor (Delco part # 814545), and the wattage is about 20 - 25 watts. TM Tractor also sells a replacement:http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/741-1fp.htm
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Re: Light switch wireing.
Alan Gee wrote: can I just put a jumper there
You don't actually need a jumper if you don't care about not having the dim setting. There are two headlight positions, dim and bright. The resistor is for the dim position, so switching to that position just won't send power to the lights without the resistor. If you put a jumper wire there, you just get two bright positions for the lights.
Michael Cummings
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
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Re: Light switch wireing.
I would replace the harness. You can get a good A&I one on ebay for about 50$ Dealers also stock them. And the best is Brillman, nice stuff. He also carries that resistor (dimmer).
A new harness is good because all the wire colors and gauge are right. It's a fairly easy job, unless you get stuck fasteners, etc. You should also give the battery wires a close look too. In the end what you want is a tractor that will start and run every time you want it to.
A new harness is good because all the wire colors and gauge are right. It's a fairly easy job, unless you get stuck fasteners, etc. You should also give the battery wires a close look too. In the end what you want is a tractor that will start and run every time you want it to.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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