Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:52 pm
My thought is to not throw more parts and dollars at the problem hoping something you do will fix it. It's time to figure out what it is that is happening and fix that.
I don't know how far the fingers have to move to release the clutch disc. It is going to be different in different situations. As an educated average guess a third to one half of their travel.
I am unsure at this point if your clutch works at all or you're just grinding gears when starting out or shifting (how it currently is).
I think it's time for some real pictures up the clutch hole of what you have, not a drawing.
Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:07 pm
I have a new yoke on it's way as the one I have has elongated holes where the bearing hangs from and I'm sure that is at least part of the issue. Once I have that installed and everything put back together, I will take some pix and post them (if it still isn't working).
If 1/3 to 1/2 of the fingers travel is a good educated guess I'm certain that is the issue as I would be surprised if the fingers are moving 3/16 of an inch before the pedal hits the stop.
Now the question is why?
I really appreciate all the suggestions and advice.
Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:28 pm
Well 3/16" seems to be the magic number according to the manual on Rudi's server. I'm sure you've seen this drawing.http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick-Deering%20Farmall%20Cub%20Owner's%20Manual%205-23-47/Page-40.jpg
I think at this point if 3/16" is all the TOB moves at full pedal travel, and there is a 1/8" clearance between the TOB and fingers, you only need the fingers to move less than 1/4" to release. If you have some elongated holes I think with the tolerances here that is a major problem.
Sun Jun 29, 2014 4:58 pm
That makes a lot of sense!
The holes in the yoke are definitely elongated, plus with the slight ware on the hanger is probably just enough to keep the clutch from disengaging the drive shaft.
Well, I guess we'll find out in a couple days.
Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:01 pm
It was the yoke!
Having never seen an actual manufactured yoke before the one in the tractor looked the same as the pix I saw on line, but once I got a hold of an actual yoke (at considerable expense) it didn't take long to see that the PO must have "made" a yoke. I give him an A for effort, but when held side by side it was obviously different enough from a manufactured one to cause all the issues.
Once installed everything fell into place and looked like it made sense. I set the free play, but disappointingly still had some grinding. A mechanic friend of mine "set" the clutch by putting it in gear and slowly releasing the clutch with the brakes on. Then everything worked......or at least I thought.
After putting everything back together I discovered that the tractor is now stuck in reverse and when I do find a forward gear the wheels are locked!
It seems like I can shift into 2nd and 3rd which locks the wheels, but can't shift into 1st and it stays in reverse.
I believe I have seem posts regarding this exact issue, soooooo I guess that is the next step.
Thanks everyone for all the good feedback and suggestions!
Wed Jul 02, 2014 10:53 pm
Vern, Take the shifter cover off. It sounds like you either have a loose fork, cracked fork, or the forks are out of alignment and the ball on the shifter can't move the forks where they need to go.
Thu Jul 03, 2014 9:07 am
I think you are probably right.
I noticed it was shifting kind of sloppy before the clutch went to heck.
Hopefully it's a quick tightening and I'm off and running again.
Thu Jul 03, 2014 5:08 pm
Ok, gear shifting is corrected. It was a loose, slightly misshapen fork.
NOW HOWEVER I STILL HAVE A PROBLEM SHIFTING!!!
So, I have the proper free play and spacing between the bearing and the fingers. If I shift from neutral to any gear I get a grind as it goes into gear. If I shift back into neutral I can hear the drive shaft spin up again. Now if I crawl underneath and push the clutch in I can reach through the pressure plate and spin the disc. With the clutch out I can't spin the disk. As an experiment, I adjusted the bearing right tight against the fingers and tried it....slight grind and the shaft spins in neutral. Another observation, I have to leave the clutch out quite a ways before the tractor starts to move, so I think the disk is free from the flywheel.....
So why am I getting the grind, drive shaft still turning, when in neutral?
Thu Jul 03, 2014 5:31 pm
try parking the cub a a steep hill , nose down hill, spray some liquid wrench on the drive shaft right in front of the clutch, spray quit a bit. It will run down to the pilot bearing, if it is holding [ and I think it is holding] it will free it up
Thu Jul 03, 2014 5:43 pm
That pilot bearing seemed a bit tight when we installed it.
Although I gave it a good coating of grease when I put it back together.
I guess I'll give that a try and see what happens.
Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:48 pm
Well Bob, that didn't seem to help.
As another test I engaged the PTO and the pulley spun when the clutch was pushed in, but I can EASILY stop it with my hand.
I am certain the clutch is working.....
Could it be the tranny oil is to thin?
Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:44 pm
when you do as I have said, I think you will solve your problem. I almost never replace the pilot bushing as the new ones are often too tight
Sat Jul 05, 2014 1:56 pm
Well I tried the liquid wrench and that didn't seem to do any good.
I guess I will just start it in gear for now.....
However, just when I thought all the ghost were exercised from this beast, a new problem has shown it's face and I don't know if it's related to the original shifting issue or not.
I hooked up my mower and it was driving along fine when suddenly the PTO started to grind, like it partially popped out of gear.
I stopped and adjusted the tab on the PTO lever and it worked for a few minutes and then started again.
Now I can't get it to fully engage at all.
I move the lever back and can feel it vibrate while grinding, but won't fully engage.
Sat Jul 26, 2014 12:55 pm
Boss Hog....you are the man!!
The Liquid Wrench on the hill didn't work right away, but a week later and no more grinding!
Thanks for the tip!!!!
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