Normally that is not a necessary step. I did it on my loader cub because I had it apart to replace the front transmission seal, so decided to do it while I was at it. A loader gets a lot more clutch work than a normal cub, so I figured I would make it easier if clutch needed adjustment.vwfish wrote:fish, did you by chance change the carrier/hanger assembly for the throwout bearing when you were working on it?
No John I didn't, but the more I think about what's going on along with some of the comments and suggestions on this thread I think that is the next step along with the bearing yokes.
Would you agree?
Looking like another $100 in parts. The Mrs. is not going to be happy with that.
As a review, the fingers of the pressure plate should be adjusted so the face of the fingers that contact the throwout bearing are 1 1/4 inch from the side of the pressure plate next to the throwout bearing. Then the clevis should be adjusted to the point the pedal has about 1 inch of free play before the throwout bearing contacts the fingers. If all these are correct, you need to look elsewhere. Is it possible the disk is installed backwards? The friction plate should have the long part of the hub toward the throwout bearing. If it is reversed the hub may drag against the flywheel and keep the shaft from stopping.
Also, is it possible that in splitting the cub the transmission shaft may have become bent? Put the cub in 3rd gear, hold the brakes, and push the clutch down and try to start it. If it will crank over something is dragging, most likely the friciton disk, either back ward or faulty, or the pilot bearing, maybe slightly bent.