Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

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Dan Stuckey
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Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby Dan Stuckey » Sun May 25, 2014 8:44 pm

So I was asked to restore a Farmall for a friend. It's a 860 but before my thread gets moved, it's a 52 year old pedal tractor. So is cast aluminum and was in pretty bad shape paint walleyes and also wheels bearings and everything else was wore out. So I was able to get on the parts I needed and stripped the aluminum down to bare. Hi First sprayed the body with etching primer and then sprayed it with sealing primer. Because of it being cast it had a lot of imperfections in the aluminum which I filled and sanded with spot putty. Hi then re-primed over the puttied areas. The coats of party came out pretty smooth.

I got farmall case spray paint and applied several thin coats to the tractor. After the painting was all done looking at the coats closely the paint has a slight wrinkle finished to it. Not real deep but to me I was just not totally pleased with it. Now I realize cast aluminum is far from smooth metal but I was wondering if there was anything I could have done or can do to correct this. Now the seat for the tractor is stamped steel of a heavy gauge. It came out very nice. Is there any sanding that can be done with a very fine sandpaper to help this out. Thanks.

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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby Papa's Cub » Mon May 26, 2014 9:11 am

Dan, You could try water sanding with 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper. It's messy, but, this will smooth the surface. If the new paint starts to roll up as you're water sanding you're going to have to start all over again. I'm assuming your primer and paint is from rattle cans. Good Luck, Tom.
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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby twotone » Mon May 26, 2014 8:43 pm

The only time I've had paint wrinkle on me is when I don't wait the required time for another coat.
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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby Buzzard Wing » Tue May 27, 2014 6:01 pm

I have had very good luck with IH paint and I am a total rookie (or was). Is etching primer OK with aluminum??

The only general rule I follow is a very light first coat, then back to it after it tacks up a bit (never check) with slightly heavier coverage. The can recommends something like 48 hours (cure time?) before additional coats. As long as it ain't yeller, usually one initial good painting is enough, but between successive sprays should have a little time to set up. Never too much at once or you will get sags and runs.

The only time I had 'alligator' finish was using that junk Tractor Supply used to carry.... and I have painted whole frames with rattle can IH paint.... do have one sag, but I did say I was a complete rookie.
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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby Dusty B » Wed May 28, 2014 2:15 pm

Have had good luck w/Wal-Mart self etching primer followed by F & Flt Valspar IH red! Looks better than some spray gun w/hardener! Dusty B
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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby BigBill » Thu May 29, 2014 8:27 am

I'd get it sand blasted to bare metal. Prime it, then do very thin coats of paint letting each coat dry. I even give each coat extra time to dry. I'd wet sand it with 600grit between coats. A great paint job is like fine wine it takes time and patience.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby gusbratz » Thu May 29, 2014 11:22 am

most cheap rattle can paints are laquer, the "magic" paint from tractor supply is enamel. you cant put laqure over enamel because the solvents will wrinkle the enamel as they are so strong. if your primer is laqure and you didn't let it dry long enough it could ruin your enamel topcoat. I have tried to stay with an entire paint system. like if using tsc paint I use their paint hardener and primer. aluminum is hard because stuff doesn't like to stick to it. I always heard wipe it down with viniger before you paint and it will acid etch off the oxides that keep the paint from sticking. then you said something about fillers, I thing etching primer is not to be used over fillers, you need a sealer for that. it gets complicated. I would ask a paint salesman or bodyshop. maybe the local vo-tech autobody teacher could advise you . the more stuff I have painted the less I feel like I know what is going on. lol.

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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby Buzzard Wing » Thu May 29, 2014 6:13 pm

I painted this mower with IronGard and foam and small bristle brush several years ago..... it still looks pretty good except for where I hacked some tube body filler... I use DupliColor primer in a rattle can with good results. Also I almost never sand.... but I am talking tractors to use not toys to be cherished. I even cherish the Cub with no new paint anyway.

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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby Matt Kirsch » Fri May 30, 2014 2:38 pm

Is it "orange peel" or actual wrinkles?

You'll always get some "orange peel" on a paint job. It's removed by wet sanding.

If it's wrinkles, your primer and top coat were not compatible. The paint is not stuck, and will just fall off sooner or later.

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Re: Rattle can paint question. Not quite happy

Postby BigBill » Tue Jul 01, 2014 7:21 pm

We need to prep a painted surface when painting over it. The surface to be repainted needs to be sanded or heavy steelwool or if there is room a wire brush is needed to clean the old paint so the new paint will adhere to the old paint or it will lift and chip.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.


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