underslung to upright exhaust

[cadetpwr]

since I lack a torch, any ideas besides lots of penetrating oil and brute strenth to remove the 90' elbow from the manifold, they look fused together with rust. I see what all needs done, just dont want to crack or mess up the manifold itself. Cheers Mike

[beaconlight]

Mike a hack saw. Nice and gentle so as not to crack the manifold. Then use the hack saw blade in your hand to cut slots in to the piect in the manifold You can get it close enough to the threads that it will be weak enough to knock a piece out with a screw driver or chisel. I had to do it on a neighbors C. The exhaust broke off from rust rot while I was using it. Be gentle. I used a screw driver rather than a chisel because I tend to be gentler and not bang away too hard too soon.
Still having a problem understanding why you would want to do this. More likely to get the exhaust in your face when the wind is blowing the wrong way. As they say to each his own.

Bill

[cadetpwr]

I guess I just like the upright exhaust better, also it points right at the woods pto drive and if I have the cover over the pully and belt it blocks the exhaust, I guess I could put a turn down on it and direct it toward the ground

[Charles (49) Mo]

Our underslung muffler has an internal (FACTORY) diverter that directs the exhaust down.

[capt jack]

I remove the mufflers from both cubs as I mow under a lot of low slung trees and that is asking for trouble and I have torn up a few exhaust that way, so went down and had some 12 black pipe threaded and use those when I am ducking trees.

[Patbretagne]

Our underslung muffler has an internal (FACTORY) diverter that directs the exhaust down.

I confirm charles, the French cubs have the end of the exhaust blocked and cut 4" from end and swaged in onto itself so that the gases are diverted down.
Pat

[cadetpwr]

She just shoots it straight out the back, works well and I probably wont change anything right away. where do you guys set your throttles when you start up for easiest starts when cold? I see to flood it a bit to often. Thanks Mike

[beaconlight]

Mike do you choke at all? If not you probably have a leaky float needle valve, an improper float level or a leaky gasket behind the seat for the float needle. Come to think of it an improperly set choke lever could do it too as well as a totally obstructed air intake.

Bill

[cadetpwr]

the choke lever itself was loose and I have been standing along side the cub to manual choke the carb, I fixed the lever and got it started much better this time. I think its time for some fresh plugs, she is a bit of an oil burner and a rebuild is not going to happen any time soon. Thanks Mike

[rvharris3]

My Cub started getting hard to start, worse when hot-it had weak or no spark so I would up with new dist cap,points,condensor,wires and set the timing correctly. I am amazed how much better it is running, more power on hills, and starts well hot or cold.

[farmallcub49]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=63967&item=7526149978&rd=1

[Jeff M]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=63967&item=7526149978&rd=1

The seller is fortunate that he had the time/energy to remove that manifold, what with his seller's ID.

[Mac from NS]

With 14 he probable found them in the yard already apart.