cub dies while plowing

[Matt Kirsch]

Definitely not "too much load" causing the problem.

If the condenser doesn't fix the problem, pull the choke the next time it starts losing power. If it runs better momentarily before dying, it is definitely a fuel problem.

[RickB]

Thanks, Matt, I will try that. I cleaned the sediment bowl like Dell suggested. It did have a bit in the bottom.I cleaned the strainer screen. It looked pretty good. I also took off the fuel line and carb. They both looked good, but blew them out anyway and checked jet/holes in carb. Next I replaced the condenser. The cap and rotor look good. When I took off the distributor body, I found a small loose metal washer - can't see anywhere that goes. There was also a bit of rust in the magneto. The condenser had rust on one end. The magneto gasket looked warped and worn. I touched it up with silicone instead of waiting a week for a new one to arrive. Is this a mistake? It is drying before I put it back together. I was hoping for a quick fix to provide a better moisture seal. Comments???

[Ironlegs]

The fact your tractor starts and runs a while indicates it's getting fuel and carburation is adequate. I had a similar problem last spring with my Cub...it turned-out to be moisture in the distributor cap...soaking moisture. I had a heck of a time finding this problem but, once I noticed it and dried the inside of the cap and cleaned all the electrical contacts, no more problems.

Another problem with these old machines is moisture in the fuel tank. When temperatures bob over and under freezing, a half or less filled fuel tank will condense a lot of moisture into the fuel on rising temperatures. What happens is that the fuel tank is vented and allows moist air over the cold fuel which makes liquid water. Fuel floats on water so the water goes right to the carburetor. To prevent this, I keep the fuel tank level mostly full during early spring time.

[RickB]

Thanks Ironlegs. There was moisture on the distributor body once I removed the cap. That's when I suspected it that could be the problem. Hopefully this will solve it. I will try to locate a new magneto gasket, but will go with the silicone for now. I will plow again tomorrow and report back.

[glennhuff]

I experienced a similar problem once, and thought it was vapor lock. I was using a rubber hose from the tank to a filter, and then to the carb. It think that it was a combination of restrictions in the fuel system that caused the carb to run dry eventually when it was under a load. I found some blockage in the carb inlet screen, and some stuff in the sediment bowl. My solution was to clean out the fuel system and replace the rubber hose and filter with a piece of 3/8 steel line. I have had no fuel related problems since.

glenn

[Bob McCarty]

Rick, TM Tractor has the gaskets, and you'll get them pdq.

Bob

[RickB]

Hi Glenn. My carb inlet screen was perfectly clean. I am going to place an order for the gasket and some magneto grease to lube the breaker arm on the points. Hopefully that will eliminate the moisture problem. I had a '66 MG sedan as a kid. The distributor got wet every time we had a hard rain - and shut the car down until it could dry out. Maybe this is the same problem.

[dmacarthur]

Ah yes Rick but the MG had lighting (?) by Lucas the Prince of Darkness and Farmall was light years ahead of them.....

[thiggy]

I am curious about the comments concerning the magneto gasket. This is obviously a distributor engine.

[RickB]

Thiggy, I may have used the wrong term - "magneto gasket". It is the gasket inside the distributor laying under the dust plate.
UPDATE: I replaced the condenser and cleaned the fuel system from the tank down. There was a bit of residue in the sediment bowl. There was moisture on the distributor dust cover, and rust on the condenser. I was able to plow about an hour this morning before it shut down again. Some improvement. This time when it quit, coolant splattered out of the radiator cap, and there was a little steam. I am going to drain, flush & fill. Any tips other than standard procedure?

[Dell]

When this cub runs does it run smooth.
Will it idle slow and smooth.
Does it burn oil, is there blue smoke like an oil burner.
Does it smell hot.
Have you checked the dipstick to see if there is coolant in the oil.
Does it leak coolant anywhere.
Are you sure this tractor is not green.

[RickB]

Hey Dell - no it doesn't run like a deere It does run smooth and idles down real nice. I have not noticed any blue smoke. It smells a little hot when it dies (antifreeze smell), and pushes a splattering of coolant out the top. I haven't noticed any overflow. The coolant level is down @ 2" below the cap. The dipstick looks good. I have had a blown headgasket in a car before - this doesn't look like that. I plowed 30-40 minutes tonight before it shut down. It went longer this morning when temps were in the 40s. I am thinking about pulling the radiator and thoroughly cleaning out the entire cooling system. I might try a flush and refill 1st to see if that helps. Suggestion???

[Dell]

The only thing I can add is what I just went throught with a IH300U.
It would run until it got warm. Then it would quit like it ran out of gas.
Turns out it was a bad gasket in the carb allowing it to suck air where it shouldn't.

Don't know if there is a similar gasket in the cub carb.

[RickB]

The only gasket I saw when I cleaned it was the cork gasket between the top and the bowl. I ordered a replacement, even though it didn't look too bad. Pretty easy to replace. I bought the Cub last fall and was told it just had a tune-up, engine overhaul, etc. I have found a few things that didn't look replaced. I should just assume it needs a total P.M. and make sure everything is done right.

[RickB]

Hi Guys, Looks like the problem is solved. I drained the radiator and put in some flushing chemicals that must be run in the system for a couple of days before being drained and replaced with fresh antifreeze. I was able to plow with the stuff in for over an hour with no problems.
Thanks for all your input!