New parts

[paw's49]

Hey guys...

Went to the IH dealer Saturday....got a new sediment bowl, new wiring harness, new oil filter, new oil filter gasket, and a new oil pan gasket. Also bought a new inline fuel filter at Advance Auto. Any hints, tips, or tricks I need to know about installing this new stuff? Also, I've read about the rubber vs metal gas line. I know metal is original, but other than that, any reason to replace the rubber line I have? I also want to get a new muffler with a rain cap......these look nice -

http://www.aldermans.com/Merchandise/Re ... ystem.html

or should I be looking elsewhere?
Thanks a bunch! Craig

[Scott]

I have a rain cap on mine that I painted red. I think it gives it a nice look. Just something different

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

If your cub sets outside I suggest a rain cap. I don't like listening the the clang, clang, clang you hear when they are not at full throttle though. Just my persoanl preference.

[Scott]

I enjoy the noise john

[Carm]

I took mine off, it seems no matter which way I turned it I would get exhaust in my face

[Arizona Mike]

paws49, take back the in line fuel filter...you won't need it...the sediment bowl is the best gas filter and all you need. While you're there pick up a 5/16" X 18' brake line with fittings, you can make a good steel fuel line from that which will last another 50 years.

You should get a oil filter gasket with your new filter.

I think those rain caps are put on for decoration...unless you plan on letting your Cub set out in the rain...Like they said...they rattle..

[Eugene]

Different opinion.

I have rain caps on all my tractors. All tractors are parked inside with an occasional overnight stay outside. Helps keep out trash and if the tractor sits for a while - keeps the squirrels from dropping nuts into the exhaust. As far as the banging exhaust - I'm hard of hearing.

Oil pan gasket. Is you old gasket leaking? If not I wouldn't replace it. If it's seeping I would tighten up the pan bolts a bit.

Fuel line and in line fuel filter. Rubber fuel line is ok. In line fuel filters, I use them even with the sediment bowl. Rubber fuel lines are easier to work with.

Price the Cub's muffler and rain cap locally. I get most of my Cub parts from the local auto parts store - usually a bit cheaper than Case/IH - and I don't have to drive a considerable distance or pay shipping and handling.

Money I spend locally helps the local economy and helps support the local tax funded governmental agencies.

My opinion only

Eugene

[timmccormack]

Several people had asked to see some pics of the forklift attachment that came on the cub I just bought. I decided to fill up the gearbox and all of a sudden I had oil everywhere. Must be that the seal on the axleshaft is bad. Drat! looks like several hours to get to that one. Also found that the final drive housing on the other side has been welded at some point so if I decide to do something with this machine, then I'll have to find a replacement for that too. Otherwise I'll probably find a home for this little machine.... my faithful Allis is getting a little testy since she was to be the first one to get restored.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b342/modelatim/

[George Willer]

Rain caps are a good idea. I have them on most of my tractors.

I would replace the rubber line with good steel one, without an in line filter. The rubber is a no-no for safety reasons and the in-line filter can cause more trouble than it prevents. A clean sediment bowl, properly maintained, is all that is necessary.

Unless someone has messed up the threads by using 1/4" pipe barbed fittings for the rubber line, the 5/16" brake line will have the right fittings, but you will need a pair of compression ferrules so you can cut the flares off. The brake lines use 1/2 x 20 NF thread as the fuel lines were originally.

Using the correct steel line is not diffiicult!

[Rudi]

To What George Said

Rain Caps are a good idea. I have them on most of my tractors.

I would replace the rubber line with good steel one, without an in line filter. The rubber is a no-no for safety reasons and the in-line filter can cause more trouble than it prevents. A clean sediment bowl, properly maintained, is all that is necessary.

Unless someone has messed up the threads by using 1/4" pipe barbed fittings for the rubber line, the 5/16" brake line will have the right fittings, but you will need a pair of compression ferrules so you can cut the flares off. The brake lines use 1/2 x 20 NF thread as the fuel lines were originally.

Using the correct steel line is not diffiicult!

I now have rain caps on both Ellie and Granny. After seeing what no rain cap has done to Jethro's mill, there is no way ever, I will not use one. The old tomato soup can works, but the problem with that is you are constantly searching for an empty tomato soup can. Em gets real tired of washing them out

Been there, done that. I have tried the in-line filters - waste of time/money and frustration. Don't work worth a darn. Best bet is to replace the rubber line with a steel gas line as called for. That is the last thing I need to do to Ellie's fuel system.

As Granny's fuel system gets converted back to normal and not the abortion that it is, it will also have the steel line. Jethro too

[Brent]

I know an in-line fuel filter drove me nuts for about a week. I have two Honda 90 trail bikes I restored and I put an in line-filter on both. I couldn't keep them running. Took the filters off and they ran fine. Talked to a fellow at a carburetor shop and he told me that some in-line filters won't work on anything that's gravity feed. They need a fuel pump to build pressure enough to push the fuel through the filter. If you put an in-line-filter on and it doesn't run right that's probably the problem.

[beaconlight]

Brent how you doing with all those fires. You showed pictures of the hillside in bloom, and it has me wondering after some of the fire reports on the radio.

Bill

[Arizona Mike]

I like to just stick a rubber stopper...not cork .into the top of the pipe.

Craig, I have an extra new fuel line (made from the brake line) with fittings I'll send you, if you send me your mailing address in p. message. It will need to be final fitted to your sediment bowl and carb.

[Arizona Mike]

cubguy47, You actually need a tubing bender to make the sharper bend up by the sediment bowl, but you can make the shallower bend into the carb by hand. I think George does use a pulley as a guide.

I took some lines to CubFest, but never had time to do one

[George Willer]

George-

What diameter pulleys do you use when you make up the steel fuel lines? I ended up not being able to make it to Cubfest to see how you did this.

Brian,

CubFest was such a busy place I never did make any lines. I use an old pulley made for a round belt about 3 1/2" diameter. It just fits the lines and works much like a proper bender. I figure on a 2" finished radius on the bends and measure accordingly. The pulley works so well that I've never tried to get a proper bender... although I have benders for smaller and larger lines.

By using a straight line in the sediment bowl and carb it's easy to mark where the bends should be to make right angle bends using the marks and the distance between the lines. If the sediment bowl happens to be headed in a different direction it will be necessary to make a preliminary bend to get it square with the world.