Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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noisome, WELCOME neighbor!! Looks like you are only a few miles from me! I am in Chapel Hill, and if you want to see what a completely dismantled tractor looks like going back together (and help with fitting some of those puzzle pieces) come on over to Brown's Auto and Collision, where I am working on Ben, my '55 Cub!
If you want to get together sometime, I would love to see your new toy and would be happy to give you a hand or answer questions (as long as they are easy!). It's always more fun to work with others, which is why we have the Cubfests. I will be going to Boss' up in VA, and would be happy to have extra passengers. (you, family?) I might even be bringing one of my tractors, and have a 18' trailer that can fit 2 tractors, if you wanted to take yours, too. I go via 15-501 and Roxboro then So Boston, so would be going right past you.
Welcome and have fun!
Hello and welcome noisome! The guys have you hooked up I see. Nice looking Cub and some good implements as well!
Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail
Look around the shelter for other parts. Lower left near the square shovel it looks like a red part you may want to grab.
Yep, looks like a planter/side dresser hopper mount/drive.
Just a quick update. I got the house and got around to the tractor.
The engine is stuck (I doubt seized). The gas tank is now off, and I poured some MMO into the spark plugs as I've read on here. Leaving it in third gear on a slight hill and rock I rock it back and forth when I get a chance. I will keep pouring oil in there and rocking it and keep it our a hill until I see progress. The pulleys seem to turn with a little play (very little rotation) so I don't think they are frozen (maybe though?).
I'll updated with better pictures.
You might also want to pull the valve/tappet cover and see if any of the valves look like they might be stuck. Penetrating oil works good there too.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
Got around to taking the valve cover off yesterday. I would have gotten to it sooner but lots of rain and laziness got in the way. Lots of crud underneath. Cleaned it off a bit and sprayed everything down with PB spray and covered it with a towel.
Got the engine unstuck this weekend. Cleaned up the valve cover and head nice with gasket. Unfortunately hand crank pin was broken from an earlier attempt and starter is not spinning. Starter is getting power, but either the switch is broken (think I would at least hear the spark) or the starter is. My dad and I applied direct current but the starter did nothing.
Off to find a good pin to weld onto hand crank + fix the starter when I get time.
Checked and double checked, its a 1950 Farmall Cub converted to a 12V system (not sure of starter).
The starter switch may not be making good contact. If you applied current directly to the bolt, and the switch is bad or didn't push the switch, it's not going to work. Easy enough to clean up the switch. Read this post for a better understanding/explanation.http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82212&hilit=starter+switch
Congrats on getting it unstuck. That's always a good feeling.
Thanks on that. We took the switch off the starter and did clean it up[ and applied power directly to the copper on the starter bypassing the switch altogether. It may be a bad ground too, even though i can touch parts of the starter and I get 12v from bolt with voltmeter since the direct connection didn't create an arc.
How do I repair the arc damage on the copper part of the starter (switch is just as damaged from arcing)?
I have had some success with cleaning the brass parts with a fine file. These parts are repairable or replacable, but you will have to find a starter/generator/alternator repair shop that repairs the older equipment. Usually much less expensive than replacing the starter. Without removing the starter, you might try grounding the starter housing to the battery ground post with jumper cable. If power applied directly to the post/stud on the starter does not cause it to turn, you have internal problems like brushes, open circuit, armature, etc.
David Dee Mock-Leonard
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints
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