Touch Control parts sources

[cranky-yankee]

New to the board but long-time cub owner (since the early '60's).

I'm refreshing my later model (x719) touch control valve body, I found a few problems, and wanted to know where the best source is for the parts.

1) The fluid strainer is history, I've found them for about $70 online. Does that sound about right?

2) The plastic sleeve in the safety valve is broken, is there a source for this part?

3) Speaking of plastic valve parts, all of mine (2 check valves, 1 valve plus the above sleeve) are discolored in what looks to have been an overheated environment. Does this spell future trouble and can those parts be sourced?

4) If they are unavailable, would an aluminum replacement be feasible? Are there working drawings available for them?

5) Is there a source for the orifice/strainer? Mine has collapsed, is it salvageable?

6) When I removed the relief valve I did not find a screen beneath it. Is it integral with the valve or is it missing and if so, is there a source for that?

7) Lastly, is there a source for the rubber boots? Both of mine are history.

I did not see any of the above parts in my rebuild kit, just gaskets & o-rings.

Thanks in advance...

[crazyjoe]

all parts in your touch control are avallible from the dealer but are expensive for all plastic and steel parts were close to three hundred

[Papa's Cub]

Recently someone posted a "How To" giving a step by step procedure on how to make a new strainer. I don't remember who posted it though. Check with TM Tractor parts for the other items you mentioned. When I rebuilt mine last year I purchased everything from them. Oh yea, the parts are sort of expensive. Good luck and keep us posted. Papa's Cub.

[Don McCombs]

Recently someone posted a "How To" giving a step by step procedure on how to make a new strainer. I don't remember who posted it though.

Stanton

[cranky-yankee]

OK, so I have found some of these parts on-line but keep hitting a wall when I try to order parts from CASE/IH store.
All I get is a parts unavailable message.
As luck would have it, what I cannot get are critical for the rebuild.
Any ideas? Am I doing something wrong on the CASE website? (Yes, I did select a "dealer")
I guess the next step is contacting a dealer via land line phone.

Any thoughts?

[Don McCombs]

Columbia Tractor of Claverack, NY.
800-352-3621 or 518-828-1781

[Cecil]

I'm about 10 miles from Columbia and had a talk to the parts guys one day and the plastic parts are an available item. Give them a call they do on the phone orders and ship. If you have a problem PM me and I'll give them a call.

[cranky-yankee]

I'd like to clean up the valve housing before reassembly.
What is the best way of doing so?
Chemical strip, hot tank, burn off, media blast?
I can think of reasons NOT to do each of the aforementioned.

[Bob McCarty]

I think a lot of the Forum members would wire wheel/cup the outside, clean it with a degreaser, and prime. After disassembly, use carb cleaner to clean out the inside. The cleaner the outside is before you open it up, the less likely you'll get crud inside. If you already have it apart, you could either reattach the two plates or be very meticulous in cleaning before reassembly. The o-rings don't need much of an excuse to start leaking.

Bob

[cranky-yankee]

Thank you all.
Got my parts from Columbia (I actually had been there many years ago when I lived in Hartsville, MA) & will start cleaning & degreasing this Saturday.
Is it worth treating the interior with glyptol (paint used in engine blocks to make oil flow more quickly into the pan)?

[cranky-yankee]

Got everything cleaned & am putting it back together. One question though. The big screen is a bit too long. Is it a crush-fit? Designed to crush tight when the head is torqued down? Or do I need to perform some surgery?

[Don McCombs]

Crush fit.

[cranky-yankee]

Well I didn't get everything reassembled in a timely manner (life got in the way) but after awhile, the pasture was in serious need of mowing. So I finished things up, filled the reservoir and cranked her up. NO movement from the touch control unit. Didn't have time to screw with it so I chained up the mower deck & did the pasture but now I have some time and want to get this thing working.
So here are my questions and observations.
When I filled the reservoir (about 3 quarts), I slightly overfilled it and the fluid showed LOTS of foam when it leaked out the fill port. From this I assumed the pump was working and was purging air from the system. I figured the air might take awhile to purge so I moved the control rod back & forth numerous times with the engine running with no result.
After mowing the pasture (about 1-2 hours) I parked it. Next time I went to use it, I checked the fluids like I usually do and the oil was way above the high fill line. I assumed the pump was leaking, badly. So I checked the reservoir and sure enough, it was almost empty. I pulled the pump and disassembled it. There is an obvious groove in the drivegear shaft where the o-ring contacts the shaft. That coupled with the empty reservoir leads me to believe the leak is massive, to have drained the reservoir in less than 2 hours.
So here are my questions. Would a bad enough leak out the pump gearshaft decrease the pressure enough that the unit would not operate? Not so much as a twitch? Or do I have another problem in the rebuilt unit that I missed/overlooked during reassembly?
I have read up on the pump and am going to attempt a lipseal upgrade which will allow me to position the seal away from the groove on the shaft. Everything else in the pump looks OK on a visual inspection.
I do not have a pressure gauge that will read the pump pressure. Any suggestions?

[Matt Kirsch]

Well not for nothing, but you'll know the answers once the pump is fixed, and you have to fix the pump or junk the tractor, right?

When I rebuilt my TC and pump, things started working within 3 cycles of the control lever, and I saw no foaming. The oil level just went down as the pump primed itself and filled the lines and passages. Not sure where foaming would come from.

[Denny Clayton]

Well not for nothing, but you'll know the answers once the pump is fixed, and you have to fix the pump or junk the tractor, right?

When I rebuilt my TC and pump, things started working within 3 cycles of the control lever, and I saw no foaming. The oil level just went down as the pump primed itself and filled the lines and passages. Not sure where foaming would come from.

Foaming is caused by air in the system.