Decisions to make about the '50 Cub

[Ben B]

Yesterday, my son and I took a good long look at the cub. To be honest, I think most folks would have knocked this cub in the head, but I'm just a fool for old machinery, and I didn't have the heart to. But, we've had it for over three years and we've used it much. This passed summer we started seeing more problems out of it, so it didn't get used much last year.

After we took a good look at it yesterday, the final drives are leaking around all the seals, and the brakes are covered with oil. The right brake doesn't work no matter how hard you push on it. All the tires are dry rotted, and 2 are the factory original tires. I haven't checked its compression, but it doesn't have anywhere near the power I have seen demonstrated by other cubs. The clutch is weak, and under a heavy pull it will slip and smoke. It will not plow anymore because it doesn't have enough power, and it stalls out when I try to.

I guess I need to start working up what it would cost to go completely through this thing and fix it. It's got more wrong with it than I have mentioned, but that is hitting the high spots.

Decisions, decisions...

[Stanton]

I've got a '49 that's similar. Compression is low, smokes like it's spraying for mosquitoes, both final drives leak and have bolt holes stripped, etc.

It boils down to this: do you like your Cub and want to keep it and do you want to use it? Answers to both parts of that question will have a different impact on your wallet. You can keep your tractor and not do a thing to it. Or, you might make a list and start estimating the costs (talk to people, get estimates, ask around) and that would give you a better idea as to the financial impact. Set up a schedule of a few months or years and give yourself a deadline to finish. An overhaul will be your most expensive ticket item, but once done, your Cub will be usable again for plowing and other major work. The brakes and final drive seals are a lesser cost. Tires do have a cost, but would last you for a long, long time.

Like stated, do you really want to use your Cub? Only you can decide... Wish you the best in your decision.

[Smokeycub]

I agree with Stanton, I would also add that if you do decide to go ahead with the project it makes for some great father/son time, and a real sense of accomplishment after the project is done.

[Don McCombs]

There are alternatives to a full engine rebuild and new tires, also. There are good used engines out there and good used tires are frequently advertised on this site as well as others.

[tst]

And you say it is a 50, does it fall in the demo serial # range? if so it would be worth keeping it together

[twotone]

My 53 had many of the same problems as yours. A lot of it was gaskets and seals leaking, which is relatively inexpensive, but time consuming. And then there's the "since I have this apart, I might as well do this" syndrome. Mine is starting to smoke a little, so I might throw a set of rings at it one of these days. I definitely have more money in all my tractors than there's worth, but a lot of us do. I enjoy working on these little tractors and they keep me out of trouble.

[SONNY]

At least they are not hard to work on!!LOL!--- you will find (unless VERY lucky) the tires will be the most cost!---get new ones and dont wast time hunting for used ones!--in all my years looking for used tires/wheels I have only found 1!!! so I quit looking and make do with I have! thanks; sonny

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Ben, I can't tell you what to do, but I can tell you what to expect. It has been around 4 years since I gave one a full going through, but you can expect $300 to $500 in just replacing all the gaskets and seals. Rebuilding the engine depends on where you live, in this area getting it bored, new pistons, crank turned and new bearings and valves ground costs around $600 if you are not in a hurry. I have heard prices on here of as much as 1200 to 1500, depending on location. The brake you are ferring to probably needs a drum and key, maybe shaft also. Then you have to figure out what your time is worth, which there will be quite a bit of involved, especially if you decide to clean it up and paint it in the process. If this tractor has no special meaning to you, just a working tractor, it is probably cheaper to buy a decent running one. MY problem is I cannot stand to junk one, I like to brag that I took a piece of junk and made it into a top notch rig. Of course being retired my time is not worth much.

[gitractorman]

I've noticed something interesting from your post. You say that you were plowing with the tractor. You also mention that the clutch slips, and that it doesn't have much power. However, you didn't mention the smoking like a fogging machine, as many would say is the fist description of a worn out Cub engine, indicating worn piston rings.

Honestly, and this is just my opinion, I would pull the final drives and replace the seals/fix the brakes - Step 1. Step 2, split and install a new clutch. Step 3, tune up the engine, clean/rebuild the carb, adjust the valves, and treat the engine with Sea Foam.

This process, involving no cosmetic work, would get you back into a working machine, and my guess is the engine will have plenty of power. The stuff mentioned here is a couple hundred $$, mostly for the seals and clutch. You can find used tires, figure about $100 each for rears, and about $50 each for new fronts, so maybe $25 each for used.

If you want a working tractor, not a trailer queen, then you could easily be back up an running for around $500, and it would be well worth it. If you want a pretty, shiny, newly painted and operating tractor, it will cost thousands. The 51 I recently redid cost nearly $500 just for the paint supplies.

Just my thoughts.
Bill

[Ben B]

Thanks everyone for your advice. That's why I posted my concern about it on here. I know you folks have already traveled this path ahead of me, and you can tell me what to expect.

The kids all want me to keep it. It's probably not as bad as it seems, but just by looking at it, it has fluid leaks all over it. It doesn't smoke, which is a good thing as you all say. But, it does run too rich and my carburetor had been damaged and modified, so I couldn't change the main jet. Also, the magneto has been modified to use an external coil instead, and the guts are missing from inside where the coil and rod should be. I believe the engine just needs a good carburetor, and attention that I don't know how to give it.

I'm sure I can fix what ever needs to be fixed. I have an uncle who's a machinist, and he rebuilt an A about 15 years ago. He told me he could do the machining for me. That would actually be a large part of the expense of a rebuild, so that would help a great deal. I guess my main concern is budget. I don't have a great deal of money to put toward it, but I do have enough mechanical skills between myself and my family to fix just about anything, if I have the parts. But, that's my concern about the tires. New ones are expensive, and I doubt the old ones will want to come off the original rims, so that would be an added expense. I have one tire splitting with the inner tube showing!!!

Also, I like the part about letting my sons help. It would be a great thing for us to share, and for them to learn on.

I'm thinking the VA cub fest would be a good place to get a hands on assessment from some folks, and maybe get a few parts to get us started! If I can at least get it running decent, then we can fix the rest as we go!

[Eugene]

If the Cub were my only work tractor, I would be looking around for a replacement. Tractor selling prices have fallen off considerably - asking prices remain about the same. Last machinery auction I went to, tractors that sold went for considerably less than my estimated selling price. Some tractors didn't sell because the highest auction bid didn't come close to the reserve.

As far as this Cub, I probably would keep it, because the kids want it. You can spread out the repair costs out over time.

This afternoon, looking over an A Farmall with belly mower and two each WD Allis Chalmers, all not running, at an estate auction tomorrow. Tractors have been sitting for a couple of years. Thinking they should sell for a bit more than scrap metal price. Scrap metal price would be less than the cost of two new rear tires for the tractor.

[Stanton]

I'm thinking the VA cub fest would be a good place to get a hands on assessment from some folks, and maybe get a few parts to get us started!

Reading your post, I was thinking the same thing. Get it to a Cubfest, bring the parts and have a helping hand do those things you've never done before.

[Ben B]

Oh, sorry I forgot to mention, but mine is not a demo. It missed the white paint by a few weeks as far as I can tell. Most of the casting codes on it are 4 4 T.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I forgot to mention the clutch in your post, that will probably be another hundred or so. If it is not smoking you may just need a valve job, and maybe rings. Of course a lot of the work can be done in stages. Engine and clutch, then final drive seals and transmission seals, etc. Part of the oil on the brakes may be from an over full transmission. they are bad to condense water inside.

[Bezirk]

P/M sent r/E rear tires and rims

Berlin