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Me again! Dumb question

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Dusty B
10+ Years
10+ Years
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Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 7:35 am
Zip Code: 61736
Tractors Owned: '45 SC Case
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Location: IL, Downs
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Me again! Dumb question

Postby Dusty B » Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:37 pm

Have looked all over w/no results - going to mic cylinders - at what point do I consider re-ringing or reboring?? Can't find any info on what is considered past the point of reasonable wear. Does not use excessive amount of oil, minimal smoke, had good power. By the way Boss, could not detect any cracks in the bolster, maybe I got lucky!!! (hope, hope!). Would just new rings be worth the time and effort to "refresh" the compression? W/be touching up the valves while it's open too. Thanks for the input! Dusty B
Grandpa's '41 B
'56,,'57,'59, Cu'b
'45 C
'55 Case S
Dad's DB garden tractor
'48 DeSoto
'31 "A Coup
'79 Lincoln TC
God looks out for those of us who don't know how to look out for ourselves!

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ricky racer
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Posts: 6313
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
Zip Code: 49120
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan

Re: Me again! Dumb question

Postby ricky racer » Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:51 pm

My manual says that if the bore is .005" over the nominal bore size it requires reboring. I am not a fan of re-ringing unless the bore is well within specifications. Reason being the bores don't wear the same amount throughout the bore. If you adjust the ring gap in an area that has more wear then other areas of the bore, you stand a chance of binding the rings possibly causing a catastrophic failure. Others here will disagree with my opinion, maybe most. This page from the manual differs from mine but should help you decide if re-ringing is an acceptable route to go.

Image
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub

User avatar
Dusty B
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1880
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 7:35 am
Zip Code: 61736
Tractors Owned: '45 SC Case
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: IL, Downs
Contact:

Re: Me again! Dumb question

Postby Dusty B » Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:24 am

Thanks Ricky - that was what I was looking for -could not find it anywhere??! Dusty B
Grandpa's '41 B
'56,,'57,'59, Cu'b
'45 C
'55 Case S
Dad's DB garden tractor
'48 DeSoto
'31 "A Coup
'79 Lincoln TC
God looks out for those of us who don't know how to look out for ourselves!

User avatar
Dusty B
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1880
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 7:35 am
Zip Code: 61736
Tractors Owned: '45 SC Case
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: IL, Downs
Contact:

Re: Me again! Dumb question

Postby Dusty B » Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:30 pm

Good news/bad news! Good news - cylinders all OK - no egg shape - w/in specs! Bad news -did find the hairline crack along the lip of the bolster (spot on Boss!) going to ream it out and give it the JB Weld try. No apparent problems anywhere else. Also w/be able to use the head off Katrina. Sooo - touch up valves & adjust, reassemble and ready? to mow next spring!!!
Grandpa's '41 B
'56,,'57,'59, Cu'b
'45 C
'55 Case S
Dad's DB garden tractor
'48 DeSoto
'31 "A Coup
'79 Lincoln TC
God looks out for those of us who don't know how to look out for ourselves!

User avatar
ricky racer
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6313
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
Zip Code: 49120
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan

Re: Me again! Dumb question

Postby ricky racer » Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:44 pm

It sure would be nice to pressure test the block to make sure you don't have any other surprises after all the work and expense sprucing up the motor. It would be a bad time to find out there are other cracks somewhere else. If you can put the head on, remove the spark plugs and pressurize the system and see if it bleeds down, it might save you a lot of time and expense. How to pressurize the system. Image Those smarter than me will be along.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub

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SONNY
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Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:26 pm
Zip Code: 61722

Re: Me again! Dumb question

Postby SONNY » Thu Dec 12, 2013 12:39 pm

Dusty!!---Ricky has ya covered!---I too would go the total re-build route IF you plan on actually pulling the motor very hard or very long at the time getting it hot, etc.---The new rings, IF they will ever seat on the old bores and up the compression, will add more pressure on the rod/main bearings too, so be sure to check the condition of them as well!---At least do a quick hone job on the cylinder walls!---a couple passes will tell you a lot as to the bore shape and at that point you can decide which way to go at that time! thanks; sonny

bythepond88
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Posts: 1421
Joined: Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:54 pm
Zip Code: 60073
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: IL, Round Lake Heights

Re: Me again! Dumb question

Postby bythepond88 » Tue Dec 17, 2013 1:07 pm

Personally, if I had the engine down far enough to mic the bores, I would also check the crank & big ends & replace the bearings as well.
Michael Cummings
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.


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