Farmall Cub

Keep in mind as you're making your hitch that once you get plowing your right wheels will (should) be in the furrow you plowed on the previous pass. That will make the right side set lower than the left wheels by what ever depth you plow. If you mount the plow level on flat ground you'll be plowing a sawtooth pattern under your turned soil. There is a twist in the Cub plows beam so the plow sets level when it's working. If you mount the plow in the center of the tractor and then move over 12" (or whatever width your plow is) to the left to do your next furrow, your right wheels will be packing down the dirt you just turned if the right back wheel gets any traction at all. It should be mounted the width of the plow just inside the right rear wheel. You'll still need some sort of depth control as has been mentioned, as well as I'm not so sure "loosely mounted to the drawbar" is the best option. The Cub plow is fairly rigid with springs to cushion if you hit something. I don't know how well a plow will track on it's own it it can swing left and right. When it swings a little either direction off center, it's going to be a lot harder to pull. Taking it to extremes for illustration the more it swings to the right the more it becomes a grader blade instead of a plow.

It all can be done, but it's going to take a lot of patientence and persistence.

The lift is going to be hard to invent,--BUT possible to do. Make up a sleeve hitch that will fit the cub and hang the same height as if on garden tractor,--OR make a 3-point adapter and use the plow as a 3pt mount,---I use a 10" Brinley bottom on 1 of my cubs( modified as 3-pt hitch) and one on my AC 918 sleeve hitch tractor. Both work well but getting them set right is a bear! good luck on the idea! thanks; sonny

I've used an old Brinley plow mounted to the far right of the drawbar for several years. The draw bar floating and a chain lift to the rear rock shaft. You want the plow level about 4 to 6 inches deep. The hardest thing is adjusting the cant (or tilt) to lay over the sod, if you're on uneven ground laying over downhill always helps, plus it's a basic safety rule "engine uphill".

I'm just goin to throw this out ,admitting that I don't have a Cub with or without a plow.
1)The Brinly Hardy instuctions on mounting their plow on a Cub Cadet say to let the plow "swing" within the small radius
that it can. 2) If you consider the first plows, pulled by horses, they were not "mounted" and when properly adjusted with a good point would "draft" and plow a good furrow with the ploughman mostly keeping the plow from falling on it's side.
But with a plow "mounted" by whatever means, the tire in the previously plowed furrow makes it neccesary to have the beam turned, rwisted, canted what ever, in relation to the depth the tire is running in the furrow. Buttt, as to Cubs and Cub plows, I say whatever Bill Hudson says is correct.

Thanks for your help. I know you don't plow in circles, but I figured it wouldn't hurt since it only went in about 3 inches. Next question. The end of the plow where it attaches to the tractor is at an angle. Do I mount it so that angle is kept or do I mount it straight horizontal like the draw bar? In other words do I keep the plow vertical or the mount horizontal?

Boy you guys are good. I didn't notice there was a second page when I wrote this question. How did you know I was going to ask this? Please ignore.

Bill68 wrote:Thanks for your help. I know you don't plow in circles, but I figured it wouldn't hurt since it only went in about 3 inches. Next question. The end of the plow where it attaches to the tractor is at an angle. Do I mount it so that angle is kept or do I mount it straight horizontal like the draw bar? In other words do I keep the plow vertical or the mount horizontal?

Boy you guys are good. I didn't notice there was a second page when I wrote this question. How did you know I was going to ask this? Please ignore.

You can if you wish and no one has posted a reply go in and delete as an edit. You can also at any time strike out the text as an edit which shows only that at sometime you posted. But you are far from the first one who changes their mind. Vern

Since the plow hasn't been adapted to the tractor yet, try this.

If your tires width is set to a wide setting, you might need to set it to a more narrow setting on the non-engine side so that the drawbar holes are closer to the tire.
Set the front tire width to match the rear.
Park the tractor on a flat surface. Jack up the rear (engine side) tire approximately 6-8" and put blocks under the tire to make up the height. Lock brakes & block the tires. Remove jack.
Measure the width of the plow. The plow should be mounted so that the plow tip is at 2x the width measured from the inside of the rear tire.
Adjust the angle of the plow (or create a custom mount) so that the cutting edge of the plow is perpendicular to the ground (at a right angle). Use a square as a guide.

Construct your lifting mechanism for the plow. The plow will be approximately 2" below its current plane when plowing and the lift mechanism must lift high enough to clear the ground amply when the 4 tires are on level ground.
If the plow doesn't want to dig into the ground, then further lower the mounting point. Worn out plow tips also do not help this.

OR...........
Get a rototiller. That's what I did.

Rototiller is best option!LOL! ---Got my King Kutter 72" on the 3-pt of my Harley-Davidson tractor and tills like mad! LOL! 1 pass --8" deep and ready to plant! thanks; sonny

Finally got my Nexus tablet working. Here are a few pictures of the plow and blade plus details of how they are mounted. Also included are the winches that power everything.

There's gonna be a lot of surprised people when they see your plow! That ain't what they were thinking it was. Have you got to try it yet? Go in the ground more than before?

The tractor has no hydraulics and probably never had a blade before. I bought it at a relative's estate sale for a fair price and started thinking about what I could do with it. At first I just dragged things around and then we found that blade in Colorado for a good price. Had to make adapters for it to mount on the front of the rear wheel structure. I already had mounted a winch on the back for lifting rear implements. Found a thick piece of plate steel and fashioned one for the side to lift the blade. I've used cheap Harbor Freight winches. It works real well unless I let it dig in too deep. Then I end up with spinning tires, even with the wheel weights. I use it mainly for weed control, Leveling, clearing a right of way for a fence, and ploughing under horse manure. I'd like to have a cheap fence post hole digger attachment.

Sorry, I thought you were asking about the blade. Duh. So far I haven't gotten the plow to go in more than about 5 or 6 inches. I think there is enough angle adjustment for where I have it mounted. The height at the beginning of the throw is around 10" and I had hoped it would go in that deep. I'll keep playing with it. All suggestions are welcomed.

I figured out the drawbar swivels both in forward and backward positions. I mounted the plow directly to the drawbar and it plows pretty deep in soft ground. When I pass over hard ground it barely makes a scratch. Somewhere I heard about drawbars swiveling but I can't remember where.
Thanks again for your help!