Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:40 pm
So I was about to close my last bed of garlic with my cub( new reg coil plugs battery plug wires cap old wires though)
when I back up hard on to a high furrow and and my foot some how pulled the postive ground battery wire off tractor stopped.
Fixed it the tractor pulls lights work but no spark at the plugs at all.
So could I have fried the points or shorted the tractor what have I done,
the cub has given me ignition issues before as well there was lots of oil pooled on the oil filter cap and some under the distributor on the latch that holds the cap on......
she is in the barn safe and my father in law hand hoed the beds over for me so the garlic is safe as well
8 200 foot double row beds
I think i need 2 cubs or maybe a 200 or an A as I have 3 acres ready to go for organic veggies next year
all spread disced down and ready for an early spring.
Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:53 pm
Since lights work. Check for voltage at terminal on side of distributor. Then check the condition of the ignition points.
3 acres, market farm, I would keep the Cub. My other tractor would be a bit larger and with 3-point hitch, hydraulics, standard pto.
Sat Nov 16, 2013 11:00 pm
For some reason this did not show up when I typed it earlier. When you remove the battery from the generator on a cub with the cutout the voltage can go up to 35 volts or higher. Never tried that on one with a regulator. Follow Eugene's instructions, but also do not overlook the possibility of the coil being burned out, assuming it is battery ignition and not a magneto powered ignition.
Sun Nov 17, 2013 7:48 pm
late 1953 the ignition power came from the voltage regulator. as metioned if the ground came off the voltage can spike causeing the voltage regulator the fail. one way to tell is to run a jumper from the starter switch to the battery side of the coil. If it starts then you know the regulator failed.
Fri Nov 22, 2013 6:43 pm
Wondering how else I could test the regulator,
is there a visual way spotting a problem in the regulator.
This regulator is new this summer,
no chance it could be the coil or points from a surge ,
Fri Nov 22, 2013 7:11 pm
The B (battery) and L (load or lights) terminal on the regulator are sold wired together. You can use a multimeter, voltage setting, and check for battery voltage at both terminals. Both terminals show same voltage - not the problem.
Back to my original suggestion. Start looking for the fault at the distributor. Points ok, then start checking back through the tractor's wiring until you find the problem.
Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:28 pm
Sat Nov 23, 2013 10:19 am
Came across one a while back that the solder connection between the batt. and the L terminal was loose, only had to be soldered again.
Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:33 pm
All good pulled the dist. out and replaced the points the one part the its mylar or whatever broke.
why who knows I need to take time and be gentle when driving no more racing
Any how first pull it ran and sounds better than before seems the timing is tighter,
but to all who helped here thanks I now know how to test the coil and regulator
proud cub user
peas and onions go in this weekend
snow finally melted
Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:16 am
Don't you hate it when it's just a dumb coincidence like that?
Two completely unrelated problems happen at the same time, and you're playing cause-and-effect to relate them together.
Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:29 am
My short life with the cub seems this way
but the smile on my face when it started.....
onions all weekend..
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