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Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
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-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 203
- Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:17 pm
- Zip Code: 48180
- Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub with
- 54 Blade
- 193 Moldboard Plow
- Woods 59 C-2 mower
Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
From the time that I had gotten the Cub, I was never happy with the Leveling and Grading blade that had come with it. At some point long ago, it had been damaged and bent/torqued out of shape (quite severely). You could see where the snow extension on the top of the blade had hit the lifting arm and warped and bent it out of shape. I would assume that this was also what broke the lifting arm and did most all of the other damage. Needless to say it did not fit or hang correctly due to the damage/bends and what can at best be politely called repairs. I could have straightened and repaired the original but I chose to go a different route. I made the choice to start with a better specimen so, out with the old and in with the not-so-old.
This new/old blade came from eBay. it came at a good price and was within a reasonable driving distance from home. It was nearly complete and any missing parts could be taken from the original blade or purchased elsewhere if I did not have them. The first thing was to disassemble the entire blade to see just exactly what was there and what needed to be fixed/repaired, replaced or acquired. The immediate pieces that were missing were the bellcrank extension, flexible clevis, skids and the snow extension, so four missing pieces. The skids and extension came from the original blade and the boomerang and clevis had to be bought, eBay for the bellcrank and a N.O.S. flexible clevis from the local Case/IH dealer.
Surprisingly, most everything on the blade was in fairly good shape, the biggest problem being the lifting arm. At some point the bushing in the arm either wore out or fell out and was never replaced. You could see where they were running it without the bushing in place and the bolt had worn and oblonged the hole.
To fix this I bought some axle spacers that are used for mini-bikes and dirt-bikes. The spacers were 1.5” in length and 0.625” ID x 1.00” OD, the right length and ID but a larger outside diameter. The original bushing had an ID of 0.625” and an OD of 0.875” and stepping it up to 1.00” was not an issue because the hole had been worn and an original bushing would not have fit correctly. Once I got the spacers I measured the diameter just to be certain, not a true 1.00” (as advertised) but close enough at 0.995”. The arm was drilled out and then reamed for a press fit, this took about 20 minutes and the new bushing fit nice and tight. At $11.00 and free shipping for 4 of the spacers, I could not be happier the result and the price.
The next piece that had to be dealt with was the axle pivot (650132R1). Both ends of the rod were well worn and beaten down so a new axle pivot was in order. I got a 13.00” long piece of 1.00” diameter 303 stainless steel rod and cross-drilled holes for the cotter pins and then chamfered the ends. Quick and easy, no painting needed.
Aside from all of the bolts and pins needing to be replaced, there was only one other piece that needed any kind of repair. The blade support (650289R95) had been cracked and broken before and welded back together using the theory of “if some is good, more is better”, but in this case it was not. The repair was cracked right through the weld. I left this repair to the welding shop, and it turned out far better than I could have done.
A couple of other pieces had to be straightened slightly, but nothing major. The worst piece that needed to be straightened being the snow extension, which had come from the original blade. After a couple of hours of grinding to take down a lot of the welding flash and to radius most all of the edges and corners, all of the parts were starting to look a lot better. The next thing to do was to stamp each of the component pieces with their individual part numbers (pure overkill). At this point everything was loaded up and taken to the powdercoater for sandblasting and powdercoat.
As I had mentioned above, almost all of the bolts and pins needed to be replaced. Whether they were worn, beaten up or just broke while trying to take everything apart, they all got replaced. Rather than just replace everything with regular machine bolts I used shoulder screws anywhere they could be used, and all other hardware that was used was stainless steel. Also, no lock washers were used, only ny-lock nuts. Why would I start to scratch up the nice fresh powdercaoting by using lock washers?
With some great help from Tim Talleur (tst) and the folks over at Maple-Hunter decals I was able to get all of the decals I wanted. I wasn’t worried about being correct with the decals, rather just getting the ones that I wanted. Once all of the decals were put on all that was left to be done was to put sub-assemblies together and then mount it to the Cub. I know that the blade should be either red, yellow or white but I liked the blue, but I did throw in some red accent pieces. All in all I think it turned out fairly well and with any luck I may have scared away the snow, at least for a little while.
This new/old blade came from eBay. it came at a good price and was within a reasonable driving distance from home. It was nearly complete and any missing parts could be taken from the original blade or purchased elsewhere if I did not have them. The first thing was to disassemble the entire blade to see just exactly what was there and what needed to be fixed/repaired, replaced or acquired. The immediate pieces that were missing were the bellcrank extension, flexible clevis, skids and the snow extension, so four missing pieces. The skids and extension came from the original blade and the boomerang and clevis had to be bought, eBay for the bellcrank and a N.O.S. flexible clevis from the local Case/IH dealer.
Surprisingly, most everything on the blade was in fairly good shape, the biggest problem being the lifting arm. At some point the bushing in the arm either wore out or fell out and was never replaced. You could see where they were running it without the bushing in place and the bolt had worn and oblonged the hole.
To fix this I bought some axle spacers that are used for mini-bikes and dirt-bikes. The spacers were 1.5” in length and 0.625” ID x 1.00” OD, the right length and ID but a larger outside diameter. The original bushing had an ID of 0.625” and an OD of 0.875” and stepping it up to 1.00” was not an issue because the hole had been worn and an original bushing would not have fit correctly. Once I got the spacers I measured the diameter just to be certain, not a true 1.00” (as advertised) but close enough at 0.995”. The arm was drilled out and then reamed for a press fit, this took about 20 minutes and the new bushing fit nice and tight. At $11.00 and free shipping for 4 of the spacers, I could not be happier the result and the price.
The next piece that had to be dealt with was the axle pivot (650132R1). Both ends of the rod were well worn and beaten down so a new axle pivot was in order. I got a 13.00” long piece of 1.00” diameter 303 stainless steel rod and cross-drilled holes for the cotter pins and then chamfered the ends. Quick and easy, no painting needed.
Aside from all of the bolts and pins needing to be replaced, there was only one other piece that needed any kind of repair. The blade support (650289R95) had been cracked and broken before and welded back together using the theory of “if some is good, more is better”, but in this case it was not. The repair was cracked right through the weld. I left this repair to the welding shop, and it turned out far better than I could have done.
A couple of other pieces had to be straightened slightly, but nothing major. The worst piece that needed to be straightened being the snow extension, which had come from the original blade. After a couple of hours of grinding to take down a lot of the welding flash and to radius most all of the edges and corners, all of the parts were starting to look a lot better. The next thing to do was to stamp each of the component pieces with their individual part numbers (pure overkill). At this point everything was loaded up and taken to the powdercoater for sandblasting and powdercoat.
As I had mentioned above, almost all of the bolts and pins needed to be replaced. Whether they were worn, beaten up or just broke while trying to take everything apart, they all got replaced. Rather than just replace everything with regular machine bolts I used shoulder screws anywhere they could be used, and all other hardware that was used was stainless steel. Also, no lock washers were used, only ny-lock nuts. Why would I start to scratch up the nice fresh powdercaoting by using lock washers?
With some great help from Tim Talleur (tst) and the folks over at Maple-Hunter decals I was able to get all of the decals I wanted. I wasn’t worried about being correct with the decals, rather just getting the ones that I wanted. Once all of the decals were put on all that was left to be done was to put sub-assemblies together and then mount it to the Cub. I know that the blade should be either red, yellow or white but I liked the blue, but I did throw in some red accent pieces. All in all I think it turned out fairly well and with any luck I may have scared away the snow, at least for a little while.
Where you are, right now, is of absolutly no use unless you are able to get away from it, FAST!
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 79
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:01 pm
- Zip Code: 12578
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub w/FH
1948 Cub w/ International 1000 loader
1946 BN
1953 Super C w/FH
1968 John Deere 55 combine
1983 International 1440 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Salt Point N.Y.
- DieselDennis
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:04 pm
- Zip Code: 39042
- eBay ID: ccbil
- Tractors Owned: '48 Cub (Great Granddaddy's)
And some bigger ones..... - Location: Brandon, MS
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Great job indeed.
What's that thing attached to your right head light bracket?
What's that thing attached to your right head light bracket?
'48 Cub 12V Conversion, Zenith Carb, Electronic Ignition
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 11858
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 8:02 pm
- Zip Code: 80501
- Tractors Owned: Cubs, MH Pony, Shaw, Allis G, 1934 Silver King, JD LA and LI, Gibson D, David Bradley Tri-Trac
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CO, Longmont
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Look like an "aaooga" horn to me. If the blade doesn't scare away the snow, maybe the horn will.
Bob
Bob
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
- ReTractor
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:46 am
- Zip Code: 06437
- Tractors Owned: 1956 lo-boy
- Location: Guilford, CT
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
That really came out nice! I doubt it will scare away the snow more likely (if you are lucky) it will attract it so you can have some fun with it! Enjoy.
- pickerandsinger
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1501
- Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:23 pm
- Zip Code: 13143
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub Low Boy w/ FH Mott Flail Mower
1953 Cub w/ sprayer and 54A blade (Chompers)
1954 Cub w/fast hitch (Ira)
1948 Cub ( Papa Paul)with Henderson loader..
1951 Mutt mix Cub (BattleAx
1950 Farmall Cub (basket case demo)
Cub parts tractor
2019 " KuB"ota 2601 loader and roto tiller
1951 Ferguson TEA 20 (parts)( Uncle Rusty)
F/H Disc Harrow for cub L-38
C-22 Sickle Bar Mower
IH C2 and C3 mower
Universal tool attachment with disc hillers..Rear cultivators (various tips
York Rake for Cub home made
Single bottom Plow for Cub F194
Gravely 5660 12 hp/ w snoblower.rototiller,bush hog - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Nice looking job...On mine I punched a hole beneath the 2 existing holes for the clevis ...Gave me more blade lift height....Again nice Job...Dave
In Memory of 58,286
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 203
- Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:17 pm
- Zip Code: 48180
- Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub with
- 54 Blade
- 193 Moldboard Plow
- Woods 59 C-2 mower
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
DieselDennis wrote:
What's that thing attached to your right head light bracket?
That is the horn that I had mounted by the steering shaft. I had to make a new bracket and then mounted it directly under the headlight. This way it is up out of the way of the blade. I can just leave on the mounting bracket for where it mounts by the steering shaft and then just attach it to this new bracket.
Where you are, right now, is of absolutly no use unless you are able to get away from it, FAST!
- Brendan In NC
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 440
- Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2011 6:54 pm
- Zip Code: 27858
- Tractors Owned: 1964 Farmall Cub Red Square Nose # 223883 one of 2300 built before they switch to Yellow and White.
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Just a Clean Strong run of the mill Farmall 140 with very little Wear.
Also have a bit of equipment
Woods C-42 Belly mower, 1963 IH McCormick #215 Plow, IH #144 Cultivators, IH Side Dresser (in need of some work non working at the moment) - Location: Greenville N.C
- Contact:
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Nice restoration job on the Blade!
Love the Blue Ribbon Recondition Style!
Love the Blue Ribbon Recondition Style!
Tractors are like watermelons..Eat the red and throw away the green!!
Brendan Dixon Greenville NC
1964 Farmall Cub #223883
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Tractorguy140, YouTube
Brendan Dixon Greenville NC
1964 Farmall Cub #223883
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Tractorguy140, YouTube
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Lots of work and you did a good job!
- Goraidh (Jeff)
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:00 pm
- Zip Code: 04236
- Tractors Owned: '49 Cub "Jessie"
'64 Cub "Alex" - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Maine
- Contact:
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Looking good.
'49 Cub (#77786) "Jessie"
"64 Farmall Cub (#224657) "Alex"
Woods 42C-6
C-3 mower
Cub 54 Blade
193 Moldboard plow
Cub L-38 disc harrow
Cub-144 Cultivator
Cordwood Saw
"64 Farmall Cub (#224657) "Alex"
Woods 42C-6
C-3 mower
Cub 54 Blade
193 Moldboard plow
Cub L-38 disc harrow
Cub-144 Cultivator
Cordwood Saw
- Buzzard Wing
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 10540
- Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 10:14 pm
- Zip Code: 02840
- Location: RI, Newport
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Beautiful in blue....
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
- KETCHAM
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2005 2:37 pm
- Zip Code: 44645
- eBay ID: kevinb2366
- Tractors Owned: 47 Cub 48 Cub 50 H
- Location: Marshallville Ohio
- Contact:
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Nice job!!!!!!!! I put mine on over the weekend,,,now waiting for the snow to fly....Oh...riding the bike to work today...so not gonna happen any time soon....Like the blue!!!! Kevin
47 CUB[Krusty] 49 CUB[Ollie] 50 H-- PLOWS DISCS MOWERS AND lots more stuff!!Life is to short -Have fun now cause ya ain't gonna be here long!!!!
- Jack
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 836
- Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 11:14 am
- Zip Code: 16353
- Tractors Owned: 1955 Farmall Cub
1955 International 300 Utility
2018 JD loader/ backhoe - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Tionesta, PA.
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
very nice job on the plow, looks great
Pine Meadows Farm
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 484
- Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2012 7:01 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1955 Cub Fast Hitch
sickle bar
land plow
harrows
snow plow
manure spreader
hayrake, rope pull
variety of cultivators
Wagner WM-1 bucket loader
rear carrier -- homemade - Location: Berkshire hills
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Impressive snow plow, paint and decal job, figuring it all out. Seems to me that I've got some work to do on my plow to get it somewhere near your fine restoration. Nice job.
What does that clevis pin do? Don't have one.
My "shaft" that runs through a botched welding job (it came that way) on the lever arm, is a steel rod that is bent and gets more bent each year. If I gather it correctly, you found a sleeve to press into the lever arm and a good shaft that is up to the job. Will study that, and copy it. In summer when the grass grows around the snow plow under the pine tree....
DickB
What does that clevis pin do? Don't have one.
My "shaft" that runs through a botched welding job (it came that way) on the lever arm, is a steel rod that is bent and gets more bent each year. If I gather it correctly, you found a sleeve to press into the lever arm and a good shaft that is up to the job. Will study that, and copy it. In summer when the grass grows around the snow plow under the pine tree....
DickB
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 203
- Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:17 pm
- Zip Code: 48180
- Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub with
- 54 Blade
- 193 Moldboard Plow
- Woods 59 C-2 mower
Re: Re-Done 54-A blade, maybe it will scare away the snow.
Thanks for all of the kind words, it is appreciated. I was either going to go white, with the same red accents or the blue that you see, I am very happy with the blue. With the original red blade there was just too much red for my taste, the blue breaks it up nicely. I thought that the Blue Ribbon Reconditioned decal was a nice touch (although it doesn't really belong). With any luck there may be some snow to push around soon.
The flexible clevis provides another "give" point when pushing with the blade mounted in the front position. In case you run into something this is just a flex point to help absorb the shock. You can buy new made ones, I was just fortunate that the local Case/IH dealer had one N.O.S. on the shelf. As for the sleeve in the lift arm, here is a link for them:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180942008797#ht_826wt_642
Their outside dimension is larger than the original bushing, but in my case it worked out well due to the fact that the blade had been run with the sleeve/bushing missing. This had worn the hole in the arm oversize and out-of-round. A couple of minutes on the drill press and then ream the hole to size for a press-fit and I'm ready for at least 50 years.
DickB wrote:What does that clevis pin do? Don't have one.
My "shaft" that runs through a botched welding job (it came that way) on the lever arm, is a steel rod that is bent and gets more bent each year. If I gather it correctly, you found a sleeve to press into the lever arm and a good shaft that is up to the job. Will study that, and copy it. In summer when the grass grows around the snow plow under the pine tree....
DickB
The flexible clevis provides another "give" point when pushing with the blade mounted in the front position. In case you run into something this is just a flex point to help absorb the shock. You can buy new made ones, I was just fortunate that the local Case/IH dealer had one N.O.S. on the shelf. As for the sleeve in the lift arm, here is a link for them:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180942008797#ht_826wt_642
Their outside dimension is larger than the original bushing, but in my case it worked out well due to the fact that the blade had been run with the sleeve/bushing missing. This had worn the hole in the arm oversize and out-of-round. A couple of minutes on the drill press and then ream the hole to size for a press-fit and I'm ready for at least 50 years.
Where you are, right now, is of absolutly no use unless you are able to get away from it, FAST!
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