Parts manuals - question on Cub Tractor

[cchatham]

A few questions on a cub tractor we now own.

First, cannot make out the entire serial number on the tag on the front end. It's been painted over several times, and looks like it may have been hammered on some, too.

Best we can figure, it says 127807 or something like that. I believe it works out to be a 1951 or so model.

First question - is there another version of the serial number available on the tractor? Is there a way to get the serial number by looking at the other numbers (I assume they are casting numbers) on it?

Second question - on restoring the tractors - is there a way to recover the info on this tag?


Next question - we've been looking at the http://www.cleancomputes.com site as a reference for parts, manuals and the like.

However, in looking at their parts manuals here:

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... index.html

We're not 100% sure that we've been pulling the proper parts manual. The one we're looking at is the T37A Parts Catalog link. What does the T37 reference, and is there a way to determine which of the parts catalogs are the correct one to be using?

Next question - first thing we're looking at is the steering. Assuming that we're looking at the right parts list (the T37A one), the steering gear (pages 46 & 47) are built pretty similar to how it's shown in that section. However, there's a lot of play in the steering. In looking at the gear itself, it looks okay, and you can see the splines hitting where they should. However, what happens is that when the steering wheel is turned, the torque on the teeth of the gear has a tendency to force it up. Is the upper bushing worn out? What thickness should it be, and should there be this kind of play in it?

Last question - inlooking at the specs (again - assuming we're looking at the right manual) the transmission says it should have 3 1/2 pints in it. We drained out about 2 gallons, it looked almost milky. Do not know if it's water, lithium grease or what. Again though, if there are different capacity & type requirements for different cubs, then it's possible to be a different capacity or type.

These though, are the first of many questions I am sure. Any help & advice appreciated.

We aren't trying to restore it as a showpiece, just trying to get a functioning work tractor out of it.

SC

[Bigdog]

Welcome aboard! Sounds like you have made a good start.
First of all, on the serial number. It sounds like you have deciphered yours. If you can read 6 digits you're seeing all of them. There is no other serial number location. However there is an engine serial number which will not match the tractor serial number. It is usually several numbers higher. You can use the casting dates on the major castings to validate the approximate date of your tractor. There is a casting date chart on the T.M. Tractor website. The year codes U, V and W were all used in 51 so if your castings have these letters you are probably reading your serial number correctly. You can have a duplicate serial number plate stamped for your restoration. They are available from several souces. Some of the links here and from the Cleancomputes site will give you some sources. You might also want to check out the cub FAQs on atis.net.

As far as the parts manuals. The last letter indicates catalog revisions so you should probably be using the TC37F catalog as it is the latest and will have the most current numbers.

On your steering, along with the bushing wear, make sure the thrust washers are in place to limit the end play of the steering shaft. That will tighten your steering considerably.

The 2 gallons of milky fluid you removed from the transmission was mostly water accumulated over the years. The 3 1/2 pints mentioned in the manual is the correct amount of fluid.

It appears that you are doing your homework while re-furbishing your cub. Keep up the good work and we'll help wherever we can.

[Jim Becker]

Bigdog pretty well covered your questions. I will add that there is some black art that can be applied to reading a damaged serial number plate. Sometimes you can do better by applying light at different angles, especially with little surrounding light. This can help emphasize the limited relief that remains from the original stamping.

After all else failes, you might try wiping some black paint across the face of it then wiping it back off (thus leaving some paint in the low spots).

[capt jack]

If all else fails, try lightly rubbing the serial plate with a very soft lead pencil and then shinning a black light on it. That will usuall bring up the old numbers. Good luck and be welcome here.

[Brent]

Sometimes if you run a damp cloth over the numbers they will stand out.

[Rudi]

SC:

Welcome to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met


I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only licensed IH publication reprint shop and they have the best quality.

Printing needed pages from the Manual Server is useful to take to the shop. That way you don't get your manuals mucked up with grease and dirt.

We're not 100% sure that we've been pulling the proper parts manual. The one we're looking at is the T37A Parts Catalog link. What does the T37 reference, and is there a way to determine which of the parts catalogs are the correct one to be using?

As BD and Jim said, the TC-37F is the latest and most up to date. However, I included the earlier versions as they were the first that I had available to me, and also, it is interesting to see the differences in the succeeding Revisions and it also provided an interesting perspective from a historical standpoint. Also, if you do use a part number from say the TC-37A, your CaseIH counterperson should be able to find the part number or the updated number and it should not cause any problem. I have used part numbers from the TC-37A without difficulty.

Last question - inlooking at the specs (again - assuming we're looking at the right manual) the transmission says it should have 3 1/2 pints in it. We drained out about 2 gallons, it looked almost milky. Do not know if it's water, lithium grease or what. Again though, if there are different capacity & type requirements for different cubs, then it's possible to be a different capacity or type.

The Owner's Manual is pretty accurate on the Fluid and Lube requirements for the Cub of almost any year. The Maintenace Schedule is accurate too. As for the quantity of 90 wt oil in the Tranny, 3-1/2 pints is correct. If you have more than that and it is milky, there is water in it. I would recommend that you drain the transmission and flush it with Kerosene. Then refill with the correct amount of 90 wt oil. Some use Hy-Tran, but I feel the 90 wt is better.

Oh, Hy-Tran is the new name for Touch Control Fluid. Use the CaseIH brand if you have a dealer close to you.

Best we can figure, it says 127807 or something like that. I believe it works out to be a 1951 or so model.

Try what was suggested above. I have used both the black paint and the pencil to recover illegible stamps over the years and both work pretty well in most cases. The only think I can think of that would still be illegible on the serial number would be the letter "J". This was used to indicate a Rockford Clutch, which made it easier for the IH techs who could then order the correct clutch without splitting the tractor. Other Cubs without the letter "J" suffix on the serial number mostly came with the Auburn Clutch from what I understand.

As BD said, seems like you have been doing your homework. Keep up the good work, keep us posted as to your progress.

Again, welcome to the forum.

[Buzzard Wing]

My good friends have answered your questions, but I will chime in anyway.
I HIGHLY recommend biting the bullet and buying all 3 manuals, service, parts and owners. I have found them invaluable and worth the $100 or so it will cost.

Milky oil does indicate water and from what I have heard it is common to get water in the tranny from the cover/shifter. I would follow Rudi's advice on the flush and keep an eye on the level (plug on the left side is the fill level). I think you will be OK even if you have a bad gasket or whatever that allows water in, if you store the Cub under cover. Mine was way overfilled, but it was all oil. I will know when I start using it if that was intentional or just a mistake.

You will like the Cub and this board! Welcome.

[Jeff M]

I agree that the milky oil appearance of the oil was water contamination, as mine Cub had the same thing--looked just like the lower unit oil I drain from my older outboard motors, which are notorious leakers. Good luck!

[cchatham]

To everyone - thank you for the suggestions and answering my earlier questions.

As promised I have a few more questions.

Re the steering - The worm gear & worm look good. However, I can lift the worm gear up & down with a screwdriver about 3/16". The castle nut is tight. How do you remove the up & down play? The worm gear is sliding up and down on the splined shaft.

Thank you again for the help.

[Bigdog]

There is a thrust washer which is part # 23 in the attached drawing. It may need to be replaced.

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Parts%20Manuals/TC-37F%20Revision%203/Group%2005%20-%20Steering/Page%2005-02.jpg

[George Willer]

Bigdog is right, but since the wear is pretty much linear you may still be able to adjust the wear out. Before you can get any good out of adjusting the castellated nut you first have to loosen the clamp bolt on the steering arm. the goal is to tighten the nut until the play is all gone, but without creating any drag. If you overshoot the mark just simply loosen the nut a little and smite the shaft on the end with something that won't damage it. Then don't forget ti TIGHTEN the clamp bolt TIGHTLY! Gotta go!

[cchatham]

Thanks again for the help. We will check it out & let you know what we find.

One other question - this is on a 140, but not 140-specific. There's a gas tank on it with some rust scale in it, and in looking at the site, I see references to Kreem, Red Seal and POR15, among others.

Any one of them better than the other, particularly for the money?

Secondly, in cleaning out the scale out of the tank - what's the best way? I've heard that putting a dog chain & some kerosene in it would work, I've also heard pressure washing, and so on. Any ideas?

Thanks again for the help.