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Rear light hookup

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freebird
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Rear light hookup

Postby freebird » Fri Jun 10, 2005 9:32 am

My cub has a simple headlight switch, off-dim-bright. I got an oem rear light harness to install and the diagram I have showed the hot lead to the light hooks to a screw on the switch just under the screw holding the resistor. I hooked the pink (ground) leads up with one going to the dash mount bolt and the other to the ground on the light. This ground was a redundant ground since my rear light grounds itself on the light housing. Any suggestions? The hole that housed the fuse has been replaced with a pull switch, so I could use that if the above mentioned has any problems.
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'52 standard cub
'56 lo-boy

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Fri Jun 10, 2005 11:44 am

Just connect the hot lead for the tail light to the same terminal as the headlights. You are right, the grounds are redundant but it certainly won't hurt anything.
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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Jun 10, 2005 1:00 pm

Your first connection was correct, but will also work the way Bigdog mentioned. The first terminal you mentioned will turn the rear lightt on bright anytinme the lights are on rather than being dim in the first position as it would be if you hooked it to the headlight screw. Alos, I assume your headlight switch does not have a fuse on it, and you mentioned there was a switch where the fuse originaly was. Has your fuse just been relocated? You do need a fuse in that circuit in case of a short in the wiring.
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freebird
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Postby freebird » Sat Jun 11, 2005 10:04 am

I wired up the light using the screw I mentioned and it works great. I did put an inline fuse in between the kill switch and light switch. Now that I don't need the extra switch I am going to order an oem fuse holder and douoble-check my routing.
Here's an odd thing also. I somehow wired the new ammeter backwards. WHen I took off the old one I labeled the wires on the harness. In fact the way the harness was built, one wire is longer to reach the further terminal. I polarized the generator a few times to ensure all was correct. I have a custom wire that I use to reach the bat terminal for polarizing because in the old days i was constantly losing polarity. It's holding now since I had the gen rebuilt, new regulator. I cleaned all connections and used a dab of electrical "grease" on all connections to prevent oxidation. I also put star washers between the regulator and plate and between gen mount bracket and engine block. I'll update when I get the meter wired right. THanks for all the help. I'll post some pics sometime this weekend.
Tell the truth, there's less to remember!

'52 standard cub
'56 lo-boy


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