Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
OR you could get a Delco alternator modified for 6V system, swap battery post, ammeter connections, and coil connections and be good to go. A lot of A Model guys use that system to have better lighting and stay 6V. Corvette parts work on old Chevy trucks too. Had a Corvette fuel pump on a 53 Chevy pickup. Made the windshield wipers work the way they were supposed to!
Last edited by danovercash on Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"It is impossible for a man to learn what he thinks he already knows." -Epictetus
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone but not forgotten!)
Looking at Harold's picture, and from what I can tell on the web, the 10si alternator comes with a pulley for 3/8" belt. The generator belt on Cubs and SA is 1/2". Does the 10si have a split pulley so it will properly fit the 1/2" belt?
No. But the solution is rather simple. Swap pulleys from the generator to the alternator.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Should you ever need to change the internal regulator, it is about 10 bucks and can be done on the tractor in just a few minutes....Another plus...Dave
In Memory of 58,286
you also have 2/3 surface area of the belt to pulley, it does not even have to be real tight. most slippage is do to old belts
The original late cubs had the same pulley on the alt.
On the original late model Cubs the alternator was rated at 37 or 42 amps, now all the 10si remans are 63 amps, which is not needed. The Hitachi alternators current outputs are closer to the original specs of the charging system.
Looking at the Cub parts manual, the pulley used on the alternators was 1961291, here is a link to the pulley showing it was for 1/2" belt. About simply changing the pulley from the generator to the alternator, IH calls out different part numbers for the two applications, normally the same part would be called out if interchangeable.
I know it's preference, but I'd never go to the trouble and expense of upgrading to an alternator and then accepting that the belt doesn't fit the pulley. And I'm glad to say, neither did IH.
My two cubs that I've converted to 12v were originally 6v.....so originality was out. It was merely a convienience conversion. I don't think that an additional 20 amp charging ability over what an original late model cub alternator produced even entered into consideration. IMHO....not going to harm anything. As to the pulley size, with 1800 max RPM and a 21 inch belt...the chances of the belt slipping or pre-mature wearing is minimal. I toyed with the idea of changing out the pulley, and the lathe you see in the background of one of the photos is quite capable of modifying or even making a custom pulley. It's just not needed. Once the hood goes on, nobody know what the pulley size is. In another drift from originality...........I installed a volt meter.
I too like the volt meter in the conversion. If the amp meter is working properly I will typically leave it as is , but if not , a volt meter will provide a better idea of the battery and charging system performance than the amp meter. . IMO
the reason I bring up the current capability of the 10si alternator is because if it's not fused a fault like shorted cell or badly discharged battery, it can cause the alternator to supply so much current it can burn wiring or overheat the battery which can lead to catastrophic failure of the battery. The battery group 26, which is what most use in the conversion is not matched to a alternator that can supply continuous 63 amps. So, I recommend a 30-40 amp fuse in the charging wire.
Just because it is a 63 amp alt. does not mean that it is putting out 63 amps all the time. All of mine cut back shortly after start up. It is not rocket science! I have group 26 batteries that are 6 years old and still going strong.
Granted, the alternator normally supplies a few amps to a charged battery. The point I'm making, the 63 amp alternator is capable of supplying 63 amps if it's trying to to try to keep the charging voltage up. This can happen if there is a fault in the charging system such as a severely discharged battery or a failed battery with a shorted cell. Does it happen every week, no. Can it happen sometime, yes. Does the alternator supply 63 amps all the time, no. Can it supply 63 amps, yes. Can it supply 63 amps continuously into a fault, yes.
Which alternator a person decides to use, either the 10si, Hitachi or other, I recommend a fuse for protection. Modern applications of alternators use fuses or fusible links for protection. It will protect the alternator, wiring and battery.
I'm gonna turn this around on you Boss: Why the sudden interest? You've got two threads going on this now.
One big plus to the Hitachi is that it will supposedly fit with no modifications to the bracketry at all. The Delco requires fabrication skills. You've either got to modify the existing bracket, or make a whole new one, or buy additional parts.
No sudden interest, I have never cared for the Hitachi, the single wire is easier for most folks to instal and not burn up something.
And judging from the pole most agree with me.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests