Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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I just recently purchased this original paint blade and wanted to make sure I mounted it correctly. Is there suppose to be a flat washer used in the mounting of the 12" bolt? Does it act as a spacer for the lift arm to keep it from hitting the steering housing? How long is the bushing in the lift arm suppose to be? Please critique so I may get it mounted correctly. Thanks.
Jeff, Neither the assembly section of the manual or the parts manual show a washer used as a spacer. Mine has never rubbed there. I would guess that you have a slight bend or wear somewhere that allows the rubbing on the steering box. That being said, I see no reason not to use a washer. I can't give you a length on the bushing, but the ones I have made extend out both sides of the lift arms about 1/16-1/8" to prevent binding when the the 12" bolt is tightened. I use black gas line to make those and it has worked well (you may have to file down the seam on the inside to allow the bolt to slide through it. We may get some snow tonight, want to come up and try it out?
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
Thank you for the info. I also used black pipe to make my bushing. Lucky enough it didnt have a weld seam on the inside of the pipe. The arm isn't rubbing yet but it is "very" close! The lifting arm is turning a toward the inside which makes it closer to the steering housing. The black pipe probably allows 1/16" of play. What is the normal distance between the lifting arm and the steering housing? I did go to the Case IH dealer up the street and they show that the bushing is no longer available.
What are you using to lock down the square blocks in the housing? Should be 5/8-11 cup set screws. Bolts just need to mushroom a little bit and they are a bear to remove.
Jeff, I never have measured my blade as far as the nearest to the steering housing, but it is very close.
Good looking originals you have collected.
Guiena, 1951 Farmall Cub; Jumping Willy, 1949 Farmall Cub.
Bob, very good point. I need to check! I do know I removed them from an original 1973 Cub from the same location. They have IH stamped on the head, but I didn't verify if they were a cup bolt. I will check tomorrow.
Thank you. All I am interested in now is nice original cubs. Clean Originals.. The other side of my garage has the red early models. They are lined up by year.
Although the parts manual shows heat treated hex head machine bolts, Bob is right about what is best.
The parts breakdown doesn't show a flat washer on the long bolt. I had one where the lift arm was against the steering gear. So I added a flat washer on the left side of the arm and it tightened it up enough to keep the arm from rubbing. I don't remember what sort of washer I used. Maybe it was a 5/8, or it could have been a 1/2 fender washer that might have needed drilling out a bit. What works and how well may depend on the particular blade and how much wear it has.
Also make sure the 12" bolt isn't bent. A little bend on the right end will allow the lift arm to get askew. Inserting the bolt from right to left, so the arm is not on the threaded part, may help as well.
In most cases, the hex head machine bolts were supplied by IH for the square implement mounting socket. The Cub-22 mower came with a set screw. As we know, the mower was hard to keep tight. It definitely needed the set screw and it is a good idea to use it with any implement.
Thank you for the info Jim! The 12" bolt was just purchased this week from Case IH so it was nice and straight. I think my issue may be that the lift arm is bent in on the flat bar side (right side from sitting on the seat of the tractor) where someone over tightened the bolt. Between that and the 1/16" of play in my home made bushing that may be the issue. The arm isn't rubbing yet but it may be a 1/8" from the steering gear. Is that about the norm?
There may have been a little more clearance than that when they were new (certainly not much more). But if you can get one mounted and run through the range of motion without actually rubbing, you have done well.
I think I will straighten the lift arm a little more and let it be. I have the bushing maybe a total of 1/16 or so longer than the arm so that there is no rubbing, so I should be good. I got this blade from a good friend Sam Adams. Have you ever been to his place in Tatum? I took my dad out there last Saturday and he could not believe it. Its definitely a trip you have to take. I have been talking to him about hosting a Cub Fest at his place too.
Anyone happen to know the distance between the holes on Part number one in the manual drawing....I understand the spacing for the implement holes but its the lower hole, say from the upper hole center to the lower hole center I need....Maybe the thickness of the material used also....Many thanks... Dave
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Dave, I measured mine and it is 1/2" thick. The holes on each end are 6 3/4" center-to-center.
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