Farmall Cub

I bought my first cub last weekend. I have been looking for a while for one that was close enough to buy. My wife and I recently started building a new house. While driving over to the new place on some back roads I noticed this cub sitting in a field. After a few days I decided to stop and ask if it was for sale. Luckily it was. I ended up buying it for $500. The previous owner replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor, condenser, and points. He said it was running until they removed the carb to rebuild it. They broke the idle tube off and quit there. I brought it all home and started working on it. I removed the rotted Firestone tires and tubes. Dropped the rims off to get sandblasted and I ordered a new carb (should be here today). I replaced the old battery that was not any good and got the engine spinning. I performed a compression test on all four cylinders and got lower numbers than I had hoped for. After reading various articles on this forum I have replaced the old crankcase oil with two quarts of oil and one bottle of Rislone. I also changed the oil filter. Now for my questions:

-Can anyone tell me what the brackets are for in the attached picture? One looks like a cup holder and the other a gauge mount.
-Can anyone tell me what the long rod with the spring is in the other picture. Is it required if I never intend to use cultivators? I will only use this as a utility tractor and occasional mowing. Can I remove it?
-Should the front of the Woods 42" deck have chains attached?








Thank you for your help.

Jason, Welcome to the Forum. Save the carb with the broken idle tube, that can easily be fixed and you'll have a spare. The spring is a helper spring that makes it easier to lift heavy loads with the hydraulics. The "cup holder" is homemade and I can't guess what the front loop was for. As you come up with more questions, feel free to ask. You'll find a lot of friendly and knowledgeable Cub lovers here.

Bob

Jason:

G'day to you and congrats on acquiring your very 1st new to you Cub Bought it for $500.00 ... really good price on that one .. really good price. The Woods 42 underneath it is probably worth darn close to that if it is in as good a shape as it looks.

Do not throw away the old carb if you have it. The idle tube is about $40.00 but comes in the complete carb rebuild kit available from Steiners .. See below:

1st to answer your questions:



That is a fast-hitch helper spring for the fast hitch. From the pics I can't tell if you have the whole hitch .. if not - go back and see the guy you bought it from ... he may have the rest -- get it if you can. Those things are valuable.


TM Tractor - "Fast Hitch with depth adjusting lever"

Darn Bob, you is quick ..

Jason:

There are a lot of resources available to our members and I would strongly suggest that you follow the links below to access just for starters the Owner's Manuals for your Cub, the Woods mower, the fast hitch as well as the Parts and Service Manuals. These are important resources to read.

to Farmallcub.com Forum Family. And you have come to the right place for all things Cub related. If you click on the Site Rules, Regulations, & Important Information, it will point you to the Welcome Wagon wherein you will find links to many useful sites and topics. One of the most important resources are Owner's Manuals, Parts Catalogs and Service Manuals. The Cub Manual Server is the home of the jpg versions and the [url=http://www.farmallcub.com/[ Sorry, direct links to manual section is not allowed. ]/index.php]PDF Manuals[/url] -- well the pdf's of course Enjoy!.

No you don't need chains for the mower.

Thanks for the quick replies. Since those brackets aren't factory I will remove and discard them. I have already printed all the owners and service manuals from a link I came across on this site. They are neatly organized in a big binder in my garage. The Woods mower is in fantastic shape. I only hope it operates as good as it looks.

As for the carburetor... I found an article on the web that recommended using a left hand drill bit or easy out to remove the tube. I used a small easy out and the tip broke off inside the tube. That was when I decided to just buy a new carb. I still have the old carb and a new rebuild kit from the previous owner.

Welcome to the Cub forum!

Sorry to hear about the carb tube, but glad to hear about your purchase!! You're not far from the Bartlesville/Dewey, OK area where the NE Oklahoma Cubfest is held--at least it was this year. It's not on the calendar for 2014 yet, but bet it will be. Keep looking for a post about it.

Again, welcome!

Welcome from Copan, always ready to help. Glad we're getting some new members in N.E. Oklahoma.
I need to get with Mike and Johnny to decide on dates for the NEO Cubfest, But I think probably the next to last or last week-end in April, depending on their schedules.

Thanks for all the welcoming posts. I will definitely watch for the cub meeting in OK next year.

Good news is I received my new carburetor today. I installed it and it fired right up. It smoked like a train for the first few minutes, but that soon went away. It has good oil pressure and runs fairly smooth. I fiddled with the idle screw and got the carb adjusted fairly close to correct I think. I have a couple of issues I could use some help on. I looked through the service manual but couldn't find anything pertaining to my issues.

1. Fuel drips steadily out of the front (air side) of the carb and around the metering rod. I'm guessing it's the float but would like to know the thoughts of someone smarter than I am on carbs.
2. I drained the transmission tonight to refill with clean gear oil and it was full of water and not a drop of oil. Should I be worried?
3. How can I install an engine temp gauge? It doesn't seem to have one, and I would be a little uneasy running it in the summer and never knowing if it was getting too hot.

Thanks again for all the help so far with my project.

Jason:

Jason_Coffey wrote:3. How can I install an engine temp gauge? It doesn't seem to have one, and I would be a little uneasy running it in the summer and never knowing if it was getting too hot.

Cubs have a thermosiphon system and do not require nor come with an engine temp gauge. You fill the radiator up to the top of the fins with coolant and let it be. It isn't going to bother it at all.

Jason_Coffey wrote:2. I drained the transmission tonight to refill with clean gear oil and it was full of water and not a drop of oil. Should I be worried?

Nope, don't be worried .. it is kinda what happens when the gasket under the shifter don't seal so well. Get a new gasket. Also, fill the tranny with the specified amount of 80-90wt Gear Lube and all should be well.

Jason_Coffey wrote:1. Fuel drips steadily out of the front (air side) of the carb and around the metering rod. I'm guessing it's the float but would like to know the thoughts of someone smarter than I am on carbs.

New carb - float probably is not adjusted properly. Also do not discount dirt/grit/crud/rust flakes or even a varnish flake in the main metering jet orifices or the needle/cage assembly. Clean em and try again.

Glen figured out what the round mount on the steering column is for. It's for the hour meter, which I have. It was hanging by a frayed wire from the throttle area when I picked it up. I hooked up the wires to my battery and it still works. I disassebmbled the back so I can install new wires and reconnect later.

Thanks Glen!

Throw away those easy-outs (not) and use only left hand drill bits.

When is it dripping? While running? While cranking when it doesn't start? When sitting after running? It is normal for Cubs and other updraft carbs to weep out the airside vent hole on the bottom of the carb if you go through several revolutions and the tractor doesn't start. Dripping when shut off and sitting is another matter altogether...

Let us know when the leak occurs...

Mike

Hengy,

It starts easily. I can't say it drips while running. I will have to start it and look. It drips steadily (almost a stream) from the air side when it isn't running. It also leaks around the metering rod gasket. I tried to tighten the metering rod a little more but I'm afraid of striping the threads if I tighten it any more. I am currently looking for information on how to properly adjust the float. I plan to tackle that tonight.

Once I get the carb ironed out, I have to work on the wiring. All the switches are out of the dash and broken. To start it for the first time, I had to figure our which wires to jump to the battery to power the ignition.

I'm going to NAPA today to pick up a belt for the generator, so I can see if it's working properly. If not I will probably covert it to 12v.

Does the PTO spin in the same fluid as the transmission or does it have its own reservoir?

Same. Also mine has a grease fitting.

A brand new carb or new to you carb? If brand new I'd return it