Fri Sep 27, 2013 10:31 am
Fixing up my newly-bought '53....
I rebuilt the carburetor and am at the stage of hooking it back up to the governor and making adjustments. I notice that the governor arm that drives the pushrod to the carburetor has a lot of play. The end of the arm has 1/2" - 5/8" of slop, wagging back and forth. If I pull on the arm away from the carburetor, I feel the spring resistance inside of the governor, after getting past the play.
So my question is, is this amount of play normal? (I doubt it) Or can it be adjusted out at or inside the governor? (I hope) Or is something likely irretrievably worn inside the governor? (I hope not!) I notice that the arm and the shaft back to the governor are solidly connected - no slop there. The play is all inside the governor.
Fri Sep 27, 2013 10:50 am
Where is the slop?
Fri Sep 27, 2013 10:59 am
Common places for slop are between the rod on part 4 and the collar on part 8 in the above drawing. Cleaning this well and applying JB weld to the end of the rod and allowing it to bond will remove that slop. If you ever need to take that apart again, some heat will break the JB weld.
The other places for slop are in the holes that hold the spring on part 8 and 11 in the drawing above. This can be fixed by drilling out and inserting a properly sized roll pin in the holes. In short, those connections should be tight enough to not allow slop, but loose enough for the spring to mount and move freely in the holes. Also consider replacing the spring as well... that will hurt response of governor as well.
I did all of these repairs to Lewis (my '55 cub) and now his governor doesn't hunt even a little bit and the RPM drop when a load is applied is really minimal.
Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:06 am
So it sounds like there are no external adjustments for this, I'm going to have to take the governor off or apart.... Groan!
Are there any Gotchas associated with removing the governor? Does engine have to be at TDC? Any parts that will go flying off into the weeds?
Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:34 am
You don't need to take the actual governor out of the engine. All of the adjustments and repairs can be done by removing the crossing rod from the governor and the top rocker from its shaft. In fact, it is better to NOT remove the governor to apply JB Weld to the shaft and mount back in place with the bolts. It is imperative that you don't move the shaft until the JB sets in place.
Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:56 am
Just to avoid confusion on my part.... How do I remove the crossing rod? Does it just pull out of the governor housing? What is the "top rocker"? (Mick Jagger ????) If it just pulls out of the governor housing, how do I clean out the part inside where it will get epoxied?
BTW, do people use "JB Weld" as a universal synonym for epoxy? Or is it special in some way?
Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:47 pm
JB Weld is what I have used, but Epoxy of any brand will work! To take the crossing rod off, just remove the pin from the shaft that goes to the carb butterfly, and remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the front cover. Off it will slip! Clean the shaft end and the socket from whence it came well with carb/brake cleaner. Apply a small bead of epoxy to the end of the shaft and put it back in place. Put the two bolts in and leave it sit without disturbing until the following morning at least. Don't have to take the governor off.
To remove the top rockshaft, you have to have the hood off (Oh NO). Remove the cotter pin holding the throttle control rod from the top of the rocker, then remove the pin in the shaft that keeps the rocker from coming off of its shaft. You may need to "wiggle" a little to get the spring out of the rockshaft, but it should come off of the shaft and the spring out of the hole. The only difficult part will be part #8. It is down in there, and I am not sure that there is an easy way to drill that for a roll-pin. If the hole is really wallowed out, it should be able to fit with just a trip of the roll pin for length, however.
Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:17 pm
Visit the JB Weld
site. It is a pretty easy product to use and works well.
Wed Oct 09, 2013 6:28 pm
Before I resorted to epoxy (JBWeld) I thought I would try shimming the shaft to take out the play. At the hardware store I found some 11/32" x 0.014" wall brass tubing. With a fine blade hacksaw I carefully cut a slit into the length of the tubing, about 3/8" in or maybe a bit more. Then I cut that length off the end of the tubing, resulting in a C-shaped shim where the ends nearly touch. After cleaning up some rough edges with a needle file, I pressed the shim onto the end of the governor rod, straddling the key. It fits very nicely, coming up against a stop where there is a step in the governor rod.
With this shim in place, the play in the governor rod seems to be entirely or almost entirely gone. If this shim wears out, the leftover tubing would make about 50 more.
Wed Oct 09, 2013 6:39 pm
Sounds like a great fix, Jay. You didn't happen to take some photos of the process, did you?
Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:28 pm
You must post pics of a repair like that!!
Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:42 am
Here are some images. The brass tubing came from a TrueValue hardware store. They have a display of brass sheet and tube shim stock, that this is from. Probably other hardware stores have similar. The governor rod has a reduced-diameter section near the end, that seems to cause or contribute to the play. The brass tube shims this out to the diameter of the main part of the rod.
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Thu Oct 10, 2013 11:21 am
Nice fix, very creative!
Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:25 pm
On my first Cub, the hub on the end of the shaft that comes out of the governor had a small set screw in the side of it for tighten down against the rockshaft. I no longer remember where around the outside of the hub the set screw was positioned, but it certainly eliminated the play between the two parts. Does anyone know if this was a factory improvement?
Wed Apr 22, 2015 1:33 pm
I ran across this thread looking for ways to take the play out of the governor linkage and thought the brass was a great idea. So, I wrote the brass tubing size down on my list of things to get. A couple of days later I was shooting my .357 and realized I already had the brass I needed. I do not have any photos, but I used a tubing cutter to cut the shell casing to the correct length and a pair of scissors to cut a piece out for the key.
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