My clutch apears bonded together , when I first start it !

[Tad Petrie]

Thank you for the link to the owners manual.

In one of dad's last posts in this thread, he mentioned he was able to lubricate the transmission input shaft/pilot bearing area and corrected his sticking issue and the clutch operated normally. I'm glad to have found this thread because I didn't know if it ever worked right.

Since the tractor has sat since 2013 with the clutch pedal strapped down in a disengaged clutch position, it appears stuck in place. This would help explain why the throwout bearing doesn't touch the clutch fingers until the very end of the pedal movement.

Can a pressure plate be frozen in a disengaged clutch position?
Would a stuck pilot bushing / input shaft cause the problem?

[Waif]

I'd be tempted to study the pedal itself for being free and lubricated.
Spring condition too. Proper spring. Proper/adequate spring tension. Proper spring hook ups.
Then check the shaft the pedal moves for free movement and lubrication. Keep following the clutch pedals effect along towards the clutch.

A sticky pilot bearing/bushing tends to keep the transmission shaft in motion when clutch is depressed , instead of stopping it after it spins for a brief amount of time after pedal is depressed.

[SamsFarm]

Sorry for the loss of your Dad!

Springs sitting compressed for long periods can sometimes weaken!

Whatever you do, do NOT put your fingers, etc, anywhere where they could get pinched should any thing suddenly release!!!

It really sounds like this tractor needs split and really checked out, cleaned, lubed!

Definately something no one wants to hear!

It almost sounds like the clutch disk is froze up on the transmission input shaft!

[Eugene]

It really sounds like this tractor needs split and really checked out, cleaned, lubed.

That would be my suggestion.

If Mom wants to sell the tractor and implements, considering everything else that is probably going on, it may not be worth the time and labor.

[Jim Becker]

. . . Dad had the tractor stored with the clutch pedal depressed, now the clutch pedal has tremendous amounts of free play and just touches the clutch fingers at the end of the pedal movement. . . .

. . . Since the tractor has sat since 2013 with the clutch pedal strapped down in a disengaged clutch position, it appears stuck in place. This would help explain why the throwout bearing doesn't touch the clutch fingers until the very end of the pedal movement. . . .

I'm not sure what the "it" is in "it appears stuck in place". I take it that the clutch pedal is moving freely but the clutch is "stuck" in an engaged position even with the pedal fully depressed. If that is your situation, I can think of three plausible explanations, with others being pretty remote:
1. The adjustment has slipped out of place.
2. The linkage has come apart somewhere between the pedal and the throwout bearing.
3. The throwout bearing has fallen apart.

The first is easy to fix, the adjustment is at the pivot of the pedal. You will probably find the adjustment (bolt in a slot) to be positioned near the end of its range, towards the pedal down position. Readjust as explained in the manual that was referenced earlier. The second and third possibilities both require you take a look up into the clutch housing through the hand hole on the bottom side. The pictures here show you what to expect to see. (This poster's problem was one of the pretty remote possibilities.)
viewtopic.php?t=79128
In the second picture, you can see the linkage rod on the left pinned to the throwout bearing carrier. As the pedal is moved, you should see the rod, carrier, and throwout bearing move. If the pin on the left has fallen out, you can replace it through the hand hole. If all these parts are moving, look at the graphite block on the front side of the throwout bearing. The graphite part could be worn away or may have shattered and no longer be able to press on the fingers. If it looks like picture two, it should be good. A problem with the throwout bearing requires replacing it, which requires splitting the tractor in two at the clutch housing.

[Tad Petrie]

. . . Dad had the tractor stored with the clutch pedal depressed, now the clutch pedal has tremendous amounts of free play and just touches the clutch fingers at the end of the pedal movement. . . .

. . . Since the tractor has sat since 2013 with the clutch pedal strapped down in a disengaged clutch position, it appears stuck in place. This would help explain why the throwout bearing doesn't touch the clutch fingers until the very end of the pedal movement. . . .

I'm not sure what the "it" is in "it appears stuck in place". I take it that the clutch pedal is moving freely but the clutch is "stuck" in an engaged position even with the pedal fully depressed. If that is your situation, I can think of three plausible explanations, with others being pretty remote:
1. The adjustment has slipped out of place.
2. The linkage has come apart somewhere between the pedal and the throwout bearing.
3. The throwout bearing has fallen apart.

The first is easy to fix, the adjustment is at the pivot of the pedal. You will probably find the adjustment (bolt in a slot) to be positioned near the end of its range, towards the pedal down position. Readjust as explained in the manual that was referenced earlier. The second and third possibilities both require you take a look up into the clutch housing through the hand hole on the bottom side. The pictures here show you what to expect to see. (This poster's problem was one of the pretty remote possibilities.)
viewtopic.php?t=79128
In the second picture, you can see the linkage rod on the left pinned to the throwout bearing carrier. As the pedal is moved, you should see the rod, carrier, and throwout bearing move. If the pin on the left has fallen out, you can replace it through the hand hole. If all these parts are moving, look at the graphite block on the front side of the throwout bearing. The graphite part could be worn away or may have shattered and no longer be able to press on the fingers. If it looks like picture two, it should be good. A problem with the throwout bearing requires replacing it, which requires splitting the tractor in two at the clutch housing.

Jim,
The clutch pedal and linkage moves freely, same with the throw out bearing.
The pressure plate fingers appear to be in a compressed (clutch disengaged) position.

Is it possible for the pressure plate to be stuck in a compressed state?

I have photos and video taken through the inspection hole I could post if I could figure out how.

Tad Petrie
Marion, TX

[Don McCombs]

PM sent.

[Don McCombs]

Here are Tad's photos, along with his descriptions...

The first two photos are still shots of the throwout at the opposite ends of the clutch pedal movement.

The third is a better overall photo of the pressure plate at its relaxed state.(coils springs seem compressed)

The 4th photo shows the clutch free play adjustment looks like it is already adjusted all the way out.

[Jim Becker]

I assumed we were talking about the '57. The '48 has the other style adjustment. So you can ignore everything I said about adjustment at the pedal. From the pictures, it looks to me like you have 2 things going on. The fingers look too low and need to be adjusted up. The throwout bearing is nearly worn out and should be replaced. With those 2 problems, you can see the spece from the bearing to the fingers is way over the specified 1/8 inch. Fully depressing the clutch pedal isn't pushing the fingers far enough to release the clutch. You may be able to get it to work by adjusting the fingers. That is probably your only chance of a repair without doing a split.

[Glen]

Hi,
Sorry your Dad passed away.

You didn't say the year, or serial number of the Cub you have in the pics above.
Your Dad's info says he had a 1957 Cub, and a 1948 Cub.
Your pics in the hand hole look like the 1948 Cub.

The 1948 Cub is shown in the upper pics on page 2 of this post.
The 1957 Cub in the lower pic on the 2nd page.
The 2 years have different styles of hoods and grilles.

If the clutch has a freeplay adjustment only inside the housing, which is a yoke with threads that turns on the rod, the Cub is a 1947, or 1948.
There were 2 different adjustment methods.
IH changed to the newer type in the manual below at serial number 32229.

The pressure plate springs look about normal, and the finger height looks slightly low.

The clutch pedal free play adjustment is not inside the hand hole, it is at the clutch pedal base, if it is the newer style adjustment.

Page 56 in the 1955 Cub operator's manual shows the newer style adjustment.
It is easy to adjust it with the newer adjustment.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2056.jpg

Notice in the drawing on the lower part of the page that the original style throwout bearing is different than the one in your Cub looks in the pics.
It looks like a 1st style yoke holding the throwout bearing, the 2nd style yoke is different.

Below is a page from the 1947 Cub owner's manual, showing the free play adjustment.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-40.jpg

Try adjusting the pedal free play, it has to have 1" measured at the surface where you put your foot.
Or 1 3/16" for the 1st style adjustment.

Below is a pic of a new original style throwout bearing. The graphite material sticks out of the bearing 5/16".

[Greenthumbfarms]

Tad, I will say that if you are looking to have the tractor repaired (and don't want to do it yourself) i know a fantastic tractor mechanic about 20 minutes from Joliet in the Minooka area that specializes in older equipment, he has worked on several machines for us over the years and i've never had a complaint on his work

[Don McCombs]

Here's some video of the clutch and TOB action...

[Waif]

Here's some video of the clutch and TOB action...

I don't see any action in those fingers.

[Jim Becker]

The video reinforces my most recent comment. I don't think there is much distance left before the carrier would hit the pressure plate (can't tell for sure with camera angle). So I think changing the free play (any more lengthening the control rod) would cause another problem. I still think raising the finger adjustment is the thing to try.

[Tad Petrie]

I agree the fingers need to get closer to the throwout bearing.

The part that confuses me is on a Aug 2013 post in this thread Dad mentioned after oiling the pilot bearing, the clutch worked fine. The tractor has literally sat in a 7x12 enclosed trailer with the clutch pedal depressed the last 7.5 years.

What could have changed?

I’ll be back in IL in April and will take a look at it; Thank you all for your assistance!