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12 posts • Page 1 of 1
My lights were accidentally left on dim for probably 2 weeks. I went to start tractor today and the battery was completely dead. I jump started with a 12v jump starter and it fired right up and ran good. I did not realize the light switch was on when I jump started it and now my lights don't work and I don't think it is charging. I checked the bulbs and they are still good. Did I fry the voltage regulator or the generator? Tractor is a 60 Lo-Boy 6v.
there is a chance that you did, do you have fire going to the light switch? I believe it will be coming from the regulator
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Did you check the fuse? It seems more likely that 12 volts would blow the bulbs, but I wouldn't dismiss the fuse blowing without checking it.
Lights not working and not charging are likely separate issues at this point, each with their own fixes, even if both were caused by the 12 volts.
Just the one.
It doesn't look like I have voltage to fuse holder but when I pull out on ignition switch, ammeter moves a little to discharge side. When running, ammeter moves to charging side but is bouncing like crazy.
I think it's the light switch. I tapped on the light switch knob with a screwdriver handle and they started working. It must be internal because wire connections seem tight. So far they are still working. It must be charging also, I only have a digital voltmeter and it goes crazy when I check voltage at battery when it's running. This tractor also has a Pertonix ignition, Maybe I got lucky jumping a 6v battery with 12v?
Who said you can’t fix electrical problems with a hammer..?
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Your mileage may vary but I have had very good luck jumping a 6V tractor using 12V. Done it many times with Dad, and never a problem.
There is a modest risk of blowing up the 6V battery, but if you connect your jumpers directly to the starter, get the tractor running, and disconnect ASAP, which is what we always do/did, the battery doesn't have time to heat up.
I've read on this site that you need an analog meter to check voltage on an old system like this. The refresh rate on the digital meters is just too quick, or not fast enough(?) to keep up with the wide swings of voltage. A needle averages it out.
Older vehicle electrical systems (generators with brushes on split ring commutators, solid wire igniton systems, no suppression capacitors) generate a lot of high frequency noise. Cheap digital meters are sensitive to this noise. High quality meters ($$$$) have dampening and shielding built in to counter the noise.
Yea, not very professional but saved me from pulling the dash or wasting money on unneeded parts... for now. I was getting ready to remove the hood and have the generator and v/r tested. Everything is still working fine today.
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
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