Farmall Cub

Gentlemen,

For years I have relied on other great forums to help me (a novice) restore a 1949 8N. I have recently purchased a 1951 Farmall Cub and I have started the process. I have gotten some great help already from Yesterday's Tractors, and just found this very specific and information full forum when doing a search on Google....BTW...type Farmall Cub into Google and topics from this forum will be one of the first three choices. I figured that this must be the place!

First about me. I ask a lot of questions and I am learning. Part of the fun is the interaction with knowledgable folks like you. I now have all the manuals needed for the Cub, but sometimes a question on a forum seems to make sense. I appreciate your help up front.

The tractor. She is a beaut! I bought her for $800. It was not running. I cobbled together a wiring system (with some help from smart people on Yesterday's) and she runs. I am going to tear it down, after a few more diagnostic runs. I did discover the following with the engine purring:
1. Tough to shift (gears grind). I did not force anything.
2. PTO shaft is not connected and came out when I shifted tractor into gear. I subsequently removed rear panel and accessed the shaft is in good shape and just needs to be reinstalled. I have read some past topics and I think I have a good handle on the re-installation...sounds fun.[/list][/list]

I do have some other questions however:
1. Removing the PTO shaft, I removed 7 bolts...all appear to be original bolts, but TWO are shorter than the other five. Is there a reason for this or did some shorter ones get replaced sometime ago?
2. Gaskets. I ordered new gaskets. I DO NOT want them to leak. Any suggestions on what to put on them when re-installing the two rear gaskets...sealant, adhesive?
3. The sump was filled with very old tranny oil and sludge. Besides diseal, is there something I should flush the sump with?
4. The grinding of those gears. What diagnostics should I run to determine why they are grinding? I do not thing it was the loose PTO shaft (the clutch WAS attached to the shaft so it was not getting caught in the gears). There was very little and very dirty tranny oil in the sump....could that lead to grinding?

That's it for now. I appreciate your help and look forward to keeping you updated and please check out my video from the other evening when we started the Cub for the first time in 10 years. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWPsCQbP5so

Welcome to the site, Brandon! The welcome wagon will be along anytime now, along with tons of help. I enjoyed your video too and cheers for having the fire brigade on standby

Welcome to the board! Glad to have you with us!

Anvilheadtexas wrote:... I do have some other questions however:
1. Removing the PTO shaft, I removed 7 bolts...all appear to be original bolts, but TWO are shorter than the other five. Is there a reason for this or did some shorter ones get replaced sometime ago?
2. Gaskets. I ordered new gaskets. I DO NOT want them to leak. Any suggestions on what to put on them when re-installing the two rear gaskets...sealant, adhesive?
3. The sump was filled with very old tranny oil and sludge. Besides diseal, is there something I should flush the sump with?
4. The grinding of those gears. What diagnostics should I run to determine why they are grinding? I do not thing it was the loose PTO shaft (the clutch WAS attached to the shaft so it was not getting caught in the gears). There was very little and very dirty tranny oil in the sump....could that lead to grinding?

1. I believe two are shorter due to the retainer being thinner for them.
2. I use Indian Head Varnish, works well.
3. Diesel or Kerosine works well.
4. The grinding is due to a improperly adjusted clutch, or it's just wore out or has broken parts. Check up inside the inspection hole to see what the situation is in there. Search the forum for clutch related issues, as well as the "how to" section with how to fix and adjust the clutch properly.

Did you get the oil pumped primed yet?

No on oil pump....?

Anvilheadtexas wrote:No on oil pump....?

From Yesterday's Tractor site:

screwstick wrote:Before you start the engine again, prime the oil pump.
Remove the cap from the oil filter housing. At the top, inside the housing will be a hole going into the block. Squirt plenty of oil in that hole. With the ignition off, turn the engine over till oil comes back out the hole. Repeat if necessary. When the oil pumps out the hole, the pump is primed and you can put it back together and run it. It may take a few seconds after the engine starts for the pressure to register.

Brandon:

G'day to you and congrats on acquiring your very 1st new to you Cub Be careful, they are very addictive Raymond has got you covered .. so I will do what I normally do.

We have a lot of resources available to our members and I would suggest spending a little time nosing around, following the links below and getting to know the site. Everything from Owner's Manuals to the BRSM Service Manuals and Parts Catalogs. I see you have manuals - so the on-line ones will serve as additonal resources and of course you can link to specific pages.

to Farmallcub.com Forum Family. And you have come to the right place for all things Cub related. If you click on the Site Rules, Regulations, & Important Information, it will point you to the Welcome Wagon wherein you will find links to many useful sites and topics. One of the most important resources are Owner's Manuals, Parts Catalogs and Service Manuals. The Cub Manual Server is the home of the jpg versions and the [url=http://www.farmallcub.com/[ Sorry, direct links to manual section is not allowed. ]/index.php]PDF Manuals[/url] -- well the pdf's of course Enjoy!.

Do follow links in our members Signature lines as these are usually illuminating threads/projects/restorations etc., that may give you ideas. One thing we really fanatics about - we like and

Welcome to the forum....You find everything you need here and perhaps a little more.... The how to sight is of great help..Check it out...Dave

Hey Brandon, congrats on the startup and thank you for posting. I'm curious to know what you had to do before starting it.
The good folks here helped me turn mine from one that hadn't been started in over 30 years (with a stuck motor) into one that ran. Back then, I had almost no mechanical experience other than oil and filter changes. You're really in the right place for help and advice.
Again, thanks for posting. New folks with lots of questions really give life to these forums.
BTW, I am just up the road from you in Bryan.
Ronny

Ronnie, I was lucky... i did not have to do alot before it started. When I bought it the man (who had just bought it from the original owner) said the original owner let it sit for 10 plus years. The gas tank had (has) an obvious leak and the gas left in the tank was like syrup on both the outside and inside of the carb and fuel bowl. The electrical system appeared old and warn out (i sunce learned that the coil was fine (after buying a new one)). As of now, I know I have to do some clutch work....hopefully just adjust. I am pleasantly surprised that almost all the nuts and bolts are oringinal and short of the PTO challenges (and there is evidence that someone has been into the rear of the tractor before)..... all mechanics seem to be good. I do have to replace a right fender, the sifter (it looks like it was broken and welded?) and the cluctch inspection plate is missing.

Brandon:

Anvilheadtexas wrote:The gas tank had (has) an obvious leak and the gas left in the tank was like syrup on both the outside and inside of the carb and fuel bowl.

I would recommend that you get it to a good gas tank repair shop and have them weld up the hole and then seal the tank with Red Kote. I did Ellie's tank gee almost a dozen years ago I guess .. it sure has been a while, and it is as pristine as the day I got it back.



How To Upgrade A Cub Fuel System

Brandon, welcome to the forum. This is by far the best place on the Internet for F CUB knowledge. Check out the link in my signature for the master post on my '48 restoration. In this forum is a post on restoration progress posts. Looking forward to seeing your Cub progress.

Welcome to the forum, Ken

The grinding going into gear could also be a dry pilot bushing. Try spraying some penetrating oil with a long straw (you may need to tape two together to get it long enough into the pilot bushing and see if that helps.