Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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8 posts • Page 1 of 1
Robert, Here is a link to a video presentation done by Raymond Durban: viewtopic.php?f=54&t=66324 You have to countersink the rivet holes with ideally a 5/16" forstner bit. Lining and rivets available from McMaster-Carr. After you review the vidoe, ask any questions you might have.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
Check out this "How To". viewtopic.php?f=54&t=66324
Edit: Boy, Bob is on the ball!
I have to stand on my brakes to get the Cub to come to stop so I'm wondering what gaskets I should anticipate needing when I place an order for some new brake bands. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Posco, you won't need any gaskets to do a brake replacement but it's a great time to replace any seals in that area that may be leaking. In particular, the differential side bearing seals and the input shaft seal on the final drives. There's much info, here on the forum, about both of the above.
Thanks, Gary. I haven't had the best of luck narrowing my searches for some reason but i'll make note of the info you gave me when the time comes. I never knew restoring a tractor would be so immensely satisfying.
I have seals and gaskets allready for one,Will order a set for the tractor I bought for parts PO couldn't get any oil pressure tried to tell him how to prime it He didn't want to fool with it.
He said he had motor rebuilt 9+ years ago ,his son quit mowing with it about 8 years,He couldn't recall for sure but thought it had a PTO problem it does,Has C2 mower on it. Primed thru the oil filter feed hole with 90 Wt cranked it over with starter it pumped oil,Put oil filter back together holds to high side of l on gauge no smoke very smooth put a pony fuel tank on it to start it because of long time it had been setting,To good to part out.!948 model
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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