Farmall Cub

The fuel bowl screen and gasket are pretty common items, NAPA near me has them on the shelf.

Gas tank condition is highly variable, my (formerly) sorta rusty 50 has a minty clean one.... go figure.

Generally, the screen on the fuel bowl will catch most smaller stuff, you can see it in the bottom of the glass (sand etc). You may want to check the inlet and area around it inside the tank, bugs and other items can cause a problem.

I thought new screens and fuel line would be an improvement. I was wrong! In trying to install a new steel line with compression fittings I managed to strip the threads in both the sediment bowl AND the carburator!! I am absolutely sick!!!

I installed a new rubber gas line the day before yesterday and I've caused a leak in a gasket somewhere. And I lubed the fitting and the hose! Time for a quality repair kit I suppose. I did put an in-line ball valve in so that should save some wear and tear on the butterfly valve under the tank.

Having screwed up the female threads on each end of the new steel gas line, I thought I would place an ad in the classifieds seeking some used parts to fix the problem but the "classifieds" don't look the same as they once did. It looks like some sort of generic thing now. Any advice on that?
Trying to get a compression ferril to grab a steel line only served to yank the (aluminum/pot metal?) threads right out of both my sediment outlet and my carb intake. Now what do I do? I sure can't afford a new carbuerator and sediment bowl assembly. That would end up being a very expensive gas line replacement. Flared fittings would be the way to go in the future, right?

Steve:

Am I correct in understanding that the threads on both the fuel sediment bowl outlet and the carb inlet are stripped If so then they need to be helicoiled so that the thread is rebuilt. If you do not want to do this, I think if you PM'd Cecil, he could fix that carb for you. It is imperative that when helicoiling the inlet that the screen fillet not be damaged and that really needs a special roach with a collar or a very skilled hand. Cecil fits the bill. Worth the time you wait for the round trip via USPS or UPS.

When reinstalling, suggest you loosen the carb at the manifold flange and let it hang just a bit. Hand start the fitting in the fuel sediment bowl and then hand start the fitting in the carb. Tighten both fittings by hand then reinstall the carb properly. Then you can tighten up the fittings without fear of stripping the threads.

The "Classifieds" have become more like Craigs List and other on-line classifieds. What you need to do is to register .. use your current forum userID, then click on the link in your activation email that will be sent to your email in box (not your PM inbox), then log in. You can now post a want. Something new to get used to but it really is better than the old model.

Hope this helps.

I also suggest that after you get your boogered up threads fixed in the carb and possibly the sediment bowl, when you are setting the ferrules on the fuel line to use a fitting off of the tractor instead of the threads on the carb and sediment bowl. Those threads are really tender and as you found out, they strip really easily! If you set the ferrule with a brass fitting, it will then tighten into both ends more easily and without a great deal of brute force...

Mike

I can do both the sediment bowl and the carb. If you are going to CubTug I will have the tools there. If not send me a PM and I'll send you my address.