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Paint discussions are like oil discussions, are like penetrating oil discussion, are like spark plug discussions, etc...
Not much real data.
As a broad brush, urethane better than acylic enamel better than alkyd enamel better than milk paint better than whitewash. Better being durability, gloss retention, uv protection. Within the groups i.e for alkyd, I have never seen any data that supports one brand being "better" than another.
Alkyd dries slowly unless you use a hardener. If you want faster drying/ hardening then use a hardener or don't use alkyd enamel.
CNH Iron Guard paint is alkyd enamel, same as the TSC Valspar and the TSC Majic paint. There may be other differences such as percent of solids, drying times, and coverage per gallon but they are all still alkyd enamels with all the inherent problems associated with old technology paints. The newer paints such as acrylic enamel and urethane have some advantages but within each class there are likely still some variations on drying times, coverage, etc...
I would decide what level you want to be at, alkyd, acrylic, or urethane and then decide the price and availability within that group and go from there.
For me, I can get a name brand acrylic enamel for the same cost as Iron Guard alkyd enamel so why use Iron Guard or Majic or others. If I did not have access to an automotive paint store but had easy access to a CNH dealer, then I may well use the Case paint or TSC paint.
For some reason red paint fades easier than other colors, alkyd paints such as Case or Majic will fade. The newer paints are less prone to fading but even modern clear coated urethane red will fade. Something to consider. How much gloss and color do you want and are you will to accept some fading and loss of shine. I suppose for a true restoration you should use alkyd paint and let it loose some color and gloss, that is what happen with the original paint and the original paint seemed to last a long time.
Eitherway, some paint looks better than no paint and if the owner is happy then all should be good.
I used Majic spray cans for a Gibson D tractor a month ago, I was not able to get to a paint store to have acrylic enamel mixed. So far looks good, drying time seemed to be the same as Krylon or others. A year from now it may look great or may all be falling off but I thought I would give it a try. I expect it is no better or no worse than any other inexpensive alkyd paint. However, data is good, if anyone has any real data on the durabulity of different brands of paint it would be useful to share.
I just bought some of this majic paint this morning to paint two metal columns in my basement. Treated them with OSPHO and primed just like I always do. When I painted with Majic grey paint, (quart can) this stuff goes on and covers just a little better than water.
I had to try it just once to see for myself. The Valspar paint they sold before was 100% better paint.
Ok guys got a question. We don't get this Majic stuff up here. But I am beginning to get the idea that Majic is Low VOC paint which means it is could be water based Is that the case Or is it another permutation of the Low VOC regulations out of California
Odds are good that all paint today have different 'properties' than just a few years ago. Rattle can paint is a 'consumer' commodity, so restricted by federal laws. 'Auto' paint is for 'professional use only'.
I was a complete rookie when I painted Rufus in 2004 - 2005. I broke rules that I knew I was breaking, mostly I painted COLD metal in a space that was only heated enough to apply the paint, then shut down. My only obvious path to getting it painted was with rattle cans. I did it in little chunks, strip and prime and paint, always with a coat of primer (Duplicolor is my favorite, never tried IronGuard primer) the same day it was stripped. Many, many cans and today I would probably use a foam brush with a quart can on the bigger stuff. Certainly a spray gun is a better (cheaper) alternative, but in small batches a rattle can works well. The white stuff was painted by a pro, gets it out of my way when working on the rest of the Cub. It is beautiful now, but pretty dusty. I use the tractor, it's not a show piece, could use a bath..... but pretty handsome none the less (and starts at the touch of a button!).
The flail mower was painted with IronGuard in a quart can with a foam brush about 5 years ago. The platform takes the most abuse, so I dusted it off some and snapped a picture. After 8 years of use. Not telling you what to use, only offering a bit of experience.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
The majik paint is not water based but may be thinner, less solids, than other auto paints. Lots of auto paints are thinned/reduced 2 paint to 1 reducer. I expect the Majik paint is something like 8 paint to 1 reducer which may indicate it already has less solids. The lower price comes from somewhere.
Eitherway, If it works and the user is happy then all should be good but knowing what your are really getting in paint, oil, whatever is also useful.
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