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Electrolysis Tank Question
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Electrolysis Tank Question
Hey, i tried firing up my tank today, and i'm not getting any bubbles.. I also don't have any charging showing up? Is the tank working, or what could be wrong?! Thanks
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- Team Cub Mentor
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No bubbles, no current flow - no workee. Is your solution fresh? Connections good? Try moving the rusty part and the anode closer together to stimulate some current flow.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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Mine is conducting so well that I can only use 6 volts. !2 volts causes the charger to overload. I think setting a tank up is as much art as science.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
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Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure that my problem is in the positioning of the part to the anodes.. Its a fresh solution. (filled today). I will try moving my part closer to the anodes, and hope for the best. I got some reading but it was so slight i didn't think it was enough, but going back on the forum to Feb, i found 2 the 3 amps would be sufficient. I was just off 0. So something was happening.. THANKS AGAIN.. I'd be lost in the dark without everyone's advice!!!!
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I've found the biggest potential problem is poor electrical connections. Make certain all connections are not slightly corroded, and are bright and shiny. Check your voltages with a voltmeter first at the power supply, but then also at the electrodes themselves. Mine worked fine last year, but then I rewired it this Spring with some improvements I saw in Rudi's design, and it wouldn't work. I found I had bad connections between the wiring and my electrodes (rebar). Once I wire brushed the attachment points, everthing worked again fine. Because we're talking low voltages (6-12v) , performance is much more resistance sensitive than if it were line voltage (110v). I also found that if you're using a chain to support the part, make sure it not a very small one - mine really heats up, indicating excessive resistance. Even though it may seem thick enough to hold the weight of the part, it may not be sufficiently thick to provide adequate current flow.
51 Cub; IH 340 Utility; IH 240 Utility http://public.fotki.com/PWS/
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Actually using a piece of chain to suspend your piece probably isn't the best because of the multible connections it creates. (each link is a connection and a loose one at that) For the best current flow a piece of wire and good tight connection, (clamp) I would think is better. (I use copper and cheap beam clamps, on the rods too) Just my .02....Roger B.
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I have run a pretty fair amount of stuff through my tank. Including my front wheels. Here are some of the tips I can offer (some may have been covered).
Clean connection! I put a clamp (wire connector, like a jumper cable clamp) to the part and clip the charger lead to that (so may be only partially submerged if at all) But the connection on the part must be clean (not too rusted) it will eventually make a good conneciton, but if you get the rust and paint off where you connect it will work much better.
Small chargers work ok, big ones are better. Even then I think I have maxed out at about 4 A with near perfect conditions.
Clean anodes daily. Just run a wire brush over them.... BUT after time, even with a lot of iron left they just give up. I would guess that you could clean em up with a wire wheel, but I just get new ones (should use the old rebar to stake up the peas?)
I hang the parts from a dowel with insulated wire.
MORE ANDODES. My big tank is about 15 gallons and I have 5, more is better.
Yet to clean the tank after months.... I do sometimes add water.
Good luck!
Clean connection! I put a clamp (wire connector, like a jumper cable clamp) to the part and clip the charger lead to that (so may be only partially submerged if at all) But the connection on the part must be clean (not too rusted) it will eventually make a good conneciton, but if you get the rust and paint off where you connect it will work much better.
Small chargers work ok, big ones are better. Even then I think I have maxed out at about 4 A with near perfect conditions.
Clean anodes daily. Just run a wire brush over them.... BUT after time, even with a lot of iron left they just give up. I would guess that you could clean em up with a wire wheel, but I just get new ones (should use the old rebar to stake up the peas?)
I hang the parts from a dowel with insulated wire.
MORE ANDODES. My big tank is about 15 gallons and I have 5, more is better.
Yet to clean the tank after months.... I do sometimes add water.
Good luck!
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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Pat
Rebar is the steel rod that is put in concrete when it is poured to reinforce it. It is made from recycled steel/iron, is kinda a low grade, inexpensive steel that has a knobby, bumpy, surface. Normally comes in 20foot lengths, but can be found in cut lengths as short as 12", and comes in various diameters - 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" etc.
Rebar is the steel rod that is put in concrete when it is poured to reinforce it. It is made from recycled steel/iron, is kinda a low grade, inexpensive steel that has a knobby, bumpy, surface. Normally comes in 20foot lengths, but can be found in cut lengths as short as 12", and comes in various diameters - 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" etc.
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Mac from NS wrote:I have never got mine to work, I thought it mite be
my charger. Ihave a 10 amp automatic and I
thought the automatic may be my problem.
Mac, I use an automatic 10-amp charger with a 15-amp guage on it and I have seen the guage go as high as 12-amp while cleaning parts. I do not use re-bar, I prefer a flat wide object that I can bend a curve in if needed. I found 10 old (1950) military stainless mess-hall meal trays at the thrift store that is my favorite to use now because of all the different reflection angles from the separated food partition angles. Oh, This was just to let you know that an auto-charger will work unless I just happen to have the OLD tough model.
Then came Bronson
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