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I have a 1965 lowboy that I recently purchased. It skips gear tooth on load, remove load and it resumes movement, the tranny is a howler too. I am in the process of removing the tranny, 2 bolts on right seat support are stuck so floor pan removal not possible yet. going to get oxygen tank filled now. Any Ideas what might be the weak link?. also Ideas on how to extract the howler monkey
Thank You All
I ahve to assume "under load" is in first gear. Possibly the first/reverse idler gear. Also the bushing in this gear may be gone if it is howling in first/reverse. Kepp in mind straight cut gears arent very quiet by design. Good Luck!
The older I get, the younger I was.
I am not sure if it was only 1st gear or not, I dont like replicating it, thinking it wont help anything to do so. I am sure it will be easy to spot when its apart
If you take off the gear shifter, you should be able to look inside and rotate the gears to find out which gear has the broken tooth/teeth.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
by skips tooth do you mean it just stops moving? If so, the clutch may be slipping, not a gear slipping.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
I did pull the top tranny cover, did not see anything alarming there. my best description it sounds like kid on bike with a loose chain, push real hard on pedals and jumps a tooth or three, let up a bit and goes fine. it is not poping out of gear its got broken teeth or splines somewhere, slowly Im closing in on the little devil, cant hide forever. not sure if a bad bushing or bearing could allow gears to seperate somewhere. possible I guess. yah Im wishing it was the clutch but the sound of jumping tooth tells me drive train is still turning
Going on sound, check your rim bolts and see if they are loose.
Guiena, 1951 Farmall Cub; Jumping Willy, 1949 Farmall Cub.
Gears depend on the bearings and the shafts/bores on/in which the bearings are mounted to maintain the proper relationship of the gear teeth. Howling gears are not properly aligned. Complete rebuild of the transmission is advised. Suggest replacing every bearing/bushing and inspecting every gear, replacing gears as necessary. Mating a new gear with an old may result in noise but will not necessarily create any other problem. Gears from aftermarket suppliers often prove to be noisier than were the originals when they were new. Tractor transmissions were not designed to be as quiet as those in automobiles.
The forces on gears in operation are incredibly high and it is a wonder that they work so well and last so long.
Luck favors those who are prepared
I dont think it's the rim bolt, no tire rotation with drive train rotation would mean no bolts. Im begining to lean towards final drive shaft problem but I'm new to cubs so could be way off.
Hey busdriver thats what I was thinking too. glad you mentioned noisy after market gears. Is there a bearing bushing kit available?, if not I'll go to the bearing house.
I am working on wedges and making a safe support for tractor today. glad I read that part before doing something stupid.
I did make a small electrolosis tank (spelling not my strong point) yesterday for bolts ect, much easier than using the big one.
My thought, partially stripped gear in transmission.
Drain the transmission/differential and remove top. Check gears.
Remove the oil pans on the finals. If the problem is in the finals, the partially missing tooth/teeth should be laying in the pans.
I have an excuse. CRS.
If it were chipped/stripped teeth, it would do it no matter the load.
It can't be in the finals, any failure out there would tend to push the gears closer together to my way of thinking...
I bet it's the sliding collar(s) that engage the gears.
I pulled the cover plates and no shavings anywhere. bull gear looks good, Well now I am second guessing myself. I am wondering if the clutch was sliping (as John said) could it slip then regrab quickly again and again giving sensation of skiping splines?.
Had a tooth broke on a Minn Moline backhoe in the rear end.....Would move fine till every time it came to the tooth...My cousin welded a new tooth and ground it down, worked fine for what I used it for....Point, as Matt said didn't make no difference load or not....
In Memory of 58,286
15 posts • Page 1 of 1
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