outdoors4evr wrote:The rod bearing numbers must match the crank and the rod, not the engine. The later serial numbers had a wider rod bearing and would rub on the sides of the early s/n crank. The rubbing gets tight when you torque it.
I agree with the others, sounds like the wrong rod bearings. For what it's worth, you should be able to feel some lateral movement (end play) at the rod journal after it's torqued down.
John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:Can you move the individual pistons in the bores, did you check the ring gap? did the machine shop turn the crank and sell you the appropriate bearings?
Ring end gap is critical for good ring wear in and good compression after the rings are broken in. If too loose they may never wear in and if too tight, let's just say bad things will happen to your block.