Farmall Cub

I decided to restore my sickle mower this weekend. I had read numerous posts on here about just hitting the rivets with a hammer and off pop the blades. Woosh. What kind of hammers was everyone else using? the bar and blades were pretty rusty so that may have had an effect but all I did with the hammer was flatten the heads of the rivets more and bend the bar a bit. So I went to the grinder and ground off one side and then with the punch. I still have about 6 to punch out. This was after generous helpings of PB blaster and several hours of work with sufficient breaks in between to say a confession or two for all the cursing. I even picked up an anvil off craigslist last night to make the job easier and to plan ahead for the rivets to come.

I am checking with Columbia tractor to see if they sell the perforated metal bar that holds the blades. If so, next time I will just chuck the old bar and old blades and start anew.

In spite of it all, it was a fun learning experience. I learned there has to be a better way for sickle mower number 2!

Removing the sections does involve a hammer, but not in the manner you used. Perhaps a through read of this manual will make the task easier.

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... index.html

Bill,

I'll do my best to explain how to snap the sections off with a hammer. First, do not hit the rivets. You found out what happens when you do.

Now to remove the sections with a hammer you will use your anvil, a (preferably) big ball pein hammer, and the section bar. Orient the sections with the tip pointing down them place the bar on the top of the anvil with the sections on the side of the anvil. The only thing above the working surface of the anvil will be the rectangular bar and the back edge or the sections. Take the hammer and smack(hard) the the back edge of the section. The section should snap off easily with one, or possibly two hits. If it takes more, swing with more force or get a bigger hammer. The rivets that remain in the bar can be driven out with a punch; the hardy hole will work well for this.

I have removed more sections than I care to remember using this method. I was Dad's "Johnson Sickle Servicer." Oh, what I had to use was much more crude than your anvil.

Bill

Boy, Don is fast.

Illustration 11 on page 11 is the way to do it. Next time check and see if someone nearby has a Johnson Sickle Servicer. Makes the job much easier.

Bob

If you plan to do many of these you may want to get a Johnson sickle serving tool. it makes the job a whole lot easier.



One thing not shown are the end two or three knives that have to be done with a hammer and punch.

thanks everyone. Boy do I feel dumb.

I've done two bars, and what I do is open up my bench vice just enough that the sections slip down between the jaws easily. Hang the bar on one jaw of the vise, and knock the back edge of the sections with whatever hammer happens to be within reach, usually a 2lb one-handed sledge.

When doing it according to the manual as Don, Bob and Matt mention, you can still end up with a bit of warping, but that is easily straightened.

I did mine the hard way. I ground off the heads and then used a rivet tool that will either punch the rivet out, or will smash it down when installing new rivets. I found it much easier and cheaper to buy a whole knife section at a farm supply store. The one I bought was 7 feet long, just cut to length and you're done.

What's the best method for installing the new sections if you don't have any special tools? Also has anyone tried the pan top bolts with the cub sickle mower for installing the cutting blades?

I was planning on banging the rivets in with a large hammer and the anvil. I did such a good job flattening the heads on the rivets when I tried to remove the blades that I consider myself pretty good at it now. but I am open to suggestions.

I re-did a 4 1/2 foot mower with the pan head bolts. I haven't tried it yet, but they do clear the guards, so it should work fine.

I have mine done with the pan head bolt kit from International Harvester. It has held for three seasons I am overdue knives. Two of the knives have worked loose this season but after 3 years I can't conplain. My knives are really dull at this point. I am going to try rivets this time.