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OK, for those who perservered through my Part 1, here is Part 2! This is a continuation of the Left Final removal http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78421 to replace the brake lining of my '52 cub.
CLEAN RUST FROM AND PRIME BRAKE BAND
RIVET NEW LINING (an earlier post showed this, but I cannot find it. Be sure to clamp lining in several places to ensure it is tight against the band. The linings that Bob McCarty sold were already drilled and countersunk. I used a combination of punch in a vice against the flat head, and a pointed punch plus a small body hammer to flare the rivet. I KNOW there is the proper tool for this, but I had to use what I had on hand)
COMPLETED BRAKE BAND
INSTALL BAND ON DRUM IN FINAL
THE CLEANED AND PAINTED FINAL OIL PAN
CLEAN SEAT FOR OIL PAN GASKET (I also chased all threads to make reassembly easier and avoid problems downline)
INDIAN HEAD GASKET SHELLAC (a thin coating was used on both sides of the gasket)
INSTALL OIL PAN (tighten all bolts evenly, but try not to overtighten...could warp the edges, especially if your pan does not have the reinforcment strips)
REMOVE FILL PLUG AND FILL FINAL WITH GEAR OIL OF CHOICE (after trussing it up to the hoist, it was much easier to do this now, than crawl under the tractor later! It also beat the idea of filling the pan to an unknown level and THEN installing it onto the final. BTDT...ended up with oil all over the place as the bull gear displaced more than I thought it would!!!)
ADD OIL UNTIL IT IS LEVEL WITH THE PLUG HOLE, THEN...
REINSTALL THE PLUG
IN PREPARATION FOR INSTALLING THE FINAL, GREASE OR OIL THE DIFFERENTIAL SEAL AND...
GREAE OR OIL THE FINAL SHAFT TO AVOID DAMAGING THE SEAL
CAREFULLY GUIDE THE FINAL ONTO THE DIFFERENTIAL
LINE UP THE TOP AND BOTTOM DOWELS, AS WELL AS THE BRAKE BAND PIN (one dowel at top of photo, brake pin at bottom of photo)
INSTALL THE 2 LOWER BOLTS
YOU CAN SEE THAT THE DRUM AND BAND ARE LOCATED CORRECTLY THROUGH THE FRONT OR BACK (for future checks)
INSTALL CLEVIS PIN IN ROD END OF BRAKE ROD (it is a good idea to make sure the rod end is free so you can make the needed adjustments. Easier now than later!)
INSTALL COTTER PIN (but don't bend it all the way over yet...you may still need to make adjustments)
CHASE THREADS ON AXLE WITH TAP (the lug bolts are fine threads and sometimes can be difficult to get started. MUCH easier if the threads are clean!)
INSTALL DRAWBAR/MULE DRIVE
INSTALL MOWER (adjust idler pulleys for belt tension and proper angles into/out of front spindle per Woods manual available on this forum)
CHECK PRPER MOWER DECK ANGLE FOR MOST EFFICIENT MOWING
REMOVE THE FRONT AXLE CHOCKS
SHEESH!! So did you manage to slug through this entire post or did you just skip to see if she works?! Well the answer is that the brake works just fine, and although the right one probably needs this same service, after some adjustment per the manual, they are well balanced. Thanks for your patience!!
Nicely done Dale, nicely done indeed After being there and doing that I appreciate the amount of work that is there. You also expanded on important points one may not think of doing like chasing the threads, reminding to lube the seal and shaft, fill oil before putting the final back on ... well done
Yep slugged threw it and enjoyed it. Good job on both getting the brake fixed and taking the time to document very well how to go about it. I've done finals before and used a socket to set seals. It never occurred to me to turn the socket around and use an extension as a handle to drive a seal in.
Thanks for showing the "how to" with pictures. Although I've done several, it's nice to have this thread to reference in the future.
Know Your Cub, And Your Cub Will Know You.
Dale, You are to be commended for taking the time to document your entire process and sharing it with " the community"...To a newbie, their were many aspects covered that were a learning experience not only the Brake lining replacement but pictures say a thousand words about rigging and the types of tools used etc....Great job...Thank you very much....Dave
In Memory of 58,286
Thanks Dale. Great job! Especially with the documentation.
Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
Thanks Dale. You did an excellent job!
"I ain't believing this!"
Like the others above have stated, several good suggestions and tips. Well done! Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.
My 1945 Farmall H makeover
Really good post, with the pictures. Glen.
Last edited by Glen on Tue May 14, 2013 6:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Glen, This Dale is a lady.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
Thanks, all, for the kind comments! It was fun to do. One of the hardest parts was to remember to stop, wipe off my hands and take the photos!! Don't know how long this phone/camera is going to last!!
Next project...a split at the transmission for a front transmission seal replacement at Boss'. With his supervision I am hoping to keep out of trouble!! I have done several splits for the rear engine seal, but this will be new territory. Everyone is welcome to come help at the VA Fest May 31-June1!!!
Last edited by Dale Finch on Wed May 15, 2013 8:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks so much for the time you put into posting this. As I'm a bit paranoid, when I've split my cub, I cut flat spots on my wedges and secured them to the axle with a hose clamp. Trust me, I'd be the one to knock one out and tip the front end.
I actually have a set like that (thanks to another person's How To) but they were out at the farm. On those, I put a length of tubing on the hose clamp to keep them from scratching the paint. You are right, they are a good idea...I was just a bit impatient. (so I used a bigger hammer to drive them in!!!)
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