OK, for those who perservered through my Part 1, here is Part 2! This is a continuation of the Left Final removal http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78421
to replace the brake lining of my '52 cub.
CLEAN RUST FROM AND PRIME BRAKE BAND
RIVET NEW LINING (an earlier post showed this, but I cannot find it. Be sure to clamp lining in several places to ensure it is tight against the band. The linings that Bob McCarty sold were already drilled and countersunk. I used a combination of punch in a vice against the flat head, and a pointed punch plus a small body hammer to flare the rivet. I KNOW there is the proper tool for this, but I had to use what I had on hand)
COMPLETED BRAKE BAND
INSTALL BAND ON DRUM IN FINAL
THE CLEANED AND PAINTED FINAL OIL PAN
CLEAN SEAT FOR OIL PAN GASKET (I also chased all threads to make reassembly easier and avoid problems downline)
INDIAN HEAD GASKET SHELLAC (a thin coating was used on both sides of the gasket)
INSTALL OIL PAN (tighten all bolts evenly, but try not to overtighten...could warp the edges, especially if your pan does not have the reinforcment strips)
REMOVE FILL PLUG AND FILL FINAL WITH GEAR OIL OF CHOICE (after trussing it up to the hoist, it was much easier to do this now, than crawl under the tractor later! It also beat the idea of filling the pan to an unknown level and THEN installing it onto the final. BTDT...ended up with oil all over the place as the bull gear displaced more than I thought it would!!!)
ADD OIL UNTIL IT IS LEVEL WITH THE PLUG HOLE, THEN...
REINSTALL THE PLUG
IN PREPARATION FOR INSTALLING THE FINAL, GREASE OR OIL THE DIFFERENTIAL SEAL AND...
GREAE OR OIL THE FINAL SHAFT TO AVOID DAMAGING THE SEAL
CAREFULLY GUIDE THE FINAL ONTO THE DIFFERENTIAL
LINE UP THE TOP AND BOTTOM DOWELS, AS WELL AS THE BRAKE BAND PIN (one dowel at top of photo, brake pin at bottom of photo)
INSTALL THE 2 LOWER BOLTS
YOU CAN SEE THAT THE DRUM AND BAND ARE LOCATED CORRECTLY THROUGH THE FRONT OR BACK (for future checks)
INSTALL CLEVIS PIN IN ROD END OF BRAKE ROD (it is a good idea to make sure the rod end is free so you can make the needed adjustments. Easier now than later!)
INSTALL COTTER PIN (but don't bend it all the way over yet...you may still need to make adjustments)
CHASE THREADS ON AXLE WITH TAP (the lug bolts are fine threads and sometimes can be difficult to get started. MUCH easier if the threads are clean!)
INSTALL DRAWBAR/MULE DRIVE
INSTALL MOWER (adjust idler pulleys for belt tension and proper angles into/out of front spindle per Woods manual available on this forum)
CHECK PRPER MOWER DECK ANGLE FOR MOST EFFICIENT MOWING
REMOVE THE FRONT AXLE CHOCKS
SHEESH!! So did you manage to slug through this entire post or did you just skip to see if she works?! Well the answer is that the brake works just fine, and although the right one probably needs this same service, after some adjustment per the manual, they are well balanced. Thanks for your patience!!