Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:17 am
Good morning forum!
Yesterday, I cleaned all the head bolts on the wire wheel, removing the rust from where they run in the water jacket. Some the bolts show signs of being undersized where they've been exposed to anti-freeze/water mixture. The threads are still there but they are smaller in that area. I considered the threaded area is not the structural part of the bolt that takes the torque, but being smaller it must be weakened to some extent.
Would you place them if this was your tractor restoration?
Best regards, Ken
Last edited by PVF1799 on Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:20 am
Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:21 am
Replace the ones that show any corrosion or wear that you describe. You don't want to take the chance of having the fun task of removing broken head bolts from the block.....
Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:26 am
Dale has the answer. If you go to Case IH, be prepared to spend ~$5/bolt.
Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:29 am
Thanks - that's what I assumed I would hear - just wanted to be sure. I already have one bolt w/an easy out in the middle of it that Napa is going to remove, when the block is boiled and the new valve train installed. I hear they use liquid nitrogen to shrink the bolt...wish I could watch...
Again - thanks for the prompt replies. Have a GREAT Day - Ken
Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:37 am
I wonder if Napa will just use this http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
and make it sound like they have a big fancy operation
and charge you big bucks
Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:12 am
Ricky, wonder if that would work. the darn thing twisted of, pretty much flat with the block....There is nothing to even grip. I'm afraid to try and drill down along side the NOT so easy-out..
Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:46 am
Ken, I got the fastenall store in Poughkeepsie to stock the head bolts for the cub, they are charge about a $1 each for the the grade * bolts and they have the hard one to find also, 2 3/8" x 3/8 16 thread, phone 845 486-8828, half the price of IH
Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:54 am
Having broken off several head bolts on my'53. I replaced all the head bolts with grade 8 hex head bolts. I drilled out all the broken bolts and because I didn't like the fit of the bolt holes in the block, (they just seemed too loose) I Heli-Coiled each and every hole. I used a sealer on each Heli-Coil and when installing the head, put sealer on all the bolts which served 2 purposes. First to seal coolant from leaking past the bolt, secondly to lubricate the bolts so less torque was required to secure the bolts. If I remember, I reduced the torque by 20%.
Thu Apr 25, 2013 11:07 am
I agree. Replace em. I never use head bolts. Buy em new. Only way to safely do the job. And Ken I would probably order them from Fastenal -
tst wrote:Ken, I got the fastenall store in Poughkeepsie to stock the head bolts for the cub, they are charge about a $1 each for the the grade * bolts and they have the hard one to find also, 2 3/8" x 3/8 16 thread, phone 845 486-8828, half the price of IH
I love supporting my local CaseIH dealer (TM Tractor, C&G, Columbia) but when I can save some coin so I can buy more from my CaseIH dealer, well the choice is simple
Thu Apr 25, 2013 11:47 pm
PVF1799 wrote:....... I already have one bolt w/an easy out in the middle of it that Napa is going to remove, .......
I stopped using easy outs when I realized that if I broke off a bolt and drilled a hole in it and then placed a SMALLER
piece of metal in it, I expected it not to break
when the larger bolt already had.
Fri Apr 26, 2013 3:42 pm
Using an Easy Out frequently depends on why the bolt is broken. If it was sheared form side force or being loose, or if it was simply tightened too much maybe. If it broke becuasse it was rusted in place, or if it was bottomed out in a blind hole and then broken, FAGET ABOUT IT
Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:27 pm
Quite a while ago I posted that one head bolt snapped and inside of that a not so easy-easy-out snapped. I was going to send it to Napa (it's still going to Napa for other things) to have them do the boil-out, etc....and remove the bolt and easy-out.
I got reading online in all sorts of places and happened upon an aircraft mechanics site where I learned of Solid Carbide Two-Flute drills for hardened steel - for use up to in hardness rating of 65 - which happens to be higher than taps and of course easy-outs.
I had to try it. So I ordered http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O2S4R4/ref=biss_dp_sa1
- in a few different sizes. Guess what? - It drilled through the easy-out like a cobalt drill bit goes through cold-rolled steel.
The saga is not quite over - as I'm ordering two drills in 1/64 increments so as not to damage the threads, so I can get the BIGGEST easy-out in the bolt. It's got to be getting weaker soon.
Wanted to share - Ken
Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:55 am
Gotta try a can of loctite freeze and release...I just looked at pictures of Ricks backhoe, by the way
...Cool Beans as the kids would say....Ken the drill bits look interesting also.....Expensive...But interesting...
Thu Aug 01, 2013 9:14 pm
A word of warning: If you try the bigger easy out the end result will be the same heartbreak as the last time around... Only difference is you'll be properly equipped to drill out the extractor.
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.
phpBB Mobile / SEO by Artodia.