Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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I have been busy with my new toy: 1959 CUB named "Argale" after my grandfather. Anyway, I got the carb problems fixed with all your great help but after installing it and cranking my heart out I discoverd I had a non- sparking issue. Since the push button switch had been replaced I started there but that didn't fix the problem. So, I pulled the grill, hood and tank, and dashboard and wired the two wires together and still no spark. Pulled the distributor cap and it looks like my points are HISTORY ! DO I PULL THE ENTIRE DISTRIBUTOR OUT, SHAFT AND ALL TO REPLACE THEM??????
I made a new CUB friend today, right here in town I saw one sitting outside and he had just got it. I determined that his was a 1948 with manual push button lift and no hydraulics or electric lights. It had belly mower, decent paint, but when we tried to turn the engine it broke the pin of my hand crank ! A stuck engine. I advised him as to his options ATF, raise the rear wheel and turn in gear, etc. He stopped later and returned my crank repaired and said he took the starter motor off and was able to turn the engine over. He had a lucky day too !
Thanks for the help !
I have replaced the points with the distributor in the tractor. You need a short screwdriver and long patience but it can be done. Try that first and if you can't get it then remove the distributor.
I had the same stuck engine problem with my recent Cub as your new friend. Pulled the starter and the engine cranked
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I agree with Eugene! I've done it both ways but prefer to remove the distributor. Along with replacing the points & condenser, it's a great opportunity to check out the advance weights & springs.
If you remove the distributor, it will pay dividends to read the "How to". Speaking from experience, there is an easy way and then there is all the other ways.
I cannot explain it too well, but you want to pull the entire distributor as an assembly as in the picture below. Pull it slowly, because the T-shaft thing will want to pull out and you do not want that. On the other end of the T-shaft is a gear. If the shaft pulls out, it may take several tries to get it back in on the right tooth. If you split the two halves of the distributor assembly, getting it set up right takes even longer.
Picture courtesy of TM Tractor
I replaced the points in mine without issue with it on the tractor. I have a magneto with an external coil. I don't know if that makes a difference or not. I also replaced all three clutch finger adjustment bolts through the hand hole.
The older I get, the younger I was.
It's a little tight, but you can replace the points without having to tear the tractor completely apart. Like said earlier, all you need is a stubby screwdriver, and nimble fingers.
If you haven't done it before, it might be a good idea to put a clean sheet on the ground underneath the tractor to catch dropped screws.
after you get the screw that adjusts the points tight make sure the points are still at .020
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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