Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Thank you. The attached diagram shows the three terminals on one side and I have found the schematic which uses the that type of relay. However, my cut out relay has only two terminals on one side and the third is on the opposite side. I was hoping to find a schematic for a 1948 Cub as the parts may be the same but they are configured a little differently. The configuration of the cut out relay is one of those slight differences. My Cub's cut out relay is actually attached to housing of the generator. Another difference that I can tell is that my Cub's fuse is on the light switch and not in a separate fuse holder. It also appears that my Cub did not come with junction boxes. If it did, they are long gone.
[All regulators have F (may be FLD), G (may be GEN) and B (usually BATT). Some have L, depending on the application.
The markings on my geneator are clear. My problem is that they are not on my Delco-Remy regulator which appears to be the original. Not being the least bit familiar with a regulator I was hoping that someone could tell me which was which.
If it is really an original type Delco cut-out, the terminals ARE marked. Look on both sides. In any case, an original would match the diagram Rudi posted back on page 2. That same diagram shows correct wiring of that type system. This one:
In general, I don't paint 'machined' surfaces. Where the starter bolts to the engine (and the 'nose' face of the generator), where castings attach to other castings (final drives, transmission, bolster, etc) and anything with a gasket. The 'frame' is the ground, so 'mechanical' connections are also electrical connections. For example, headlight with one wire will not work if the bucket isn't grounded somehow.
Sometimes the bolts and lock washers are enough, but a little corrosion somewhere down the line will make for a hard to find 'problem'.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
Thank you for the information. I had the diagram that Rudi furnished printed out from another post and had looked at it before and looked at it again in this post. Looking at the regulator on the diagram a little closer, it identifies the connection points that I have been looking for. I had to get my cheaters out to see the "F". The only thing that confuses me is that none of the diagrams show two short wires going from the two connection points on the left side of the regulator to the two lugs on the generator as mine did. They just show one. The wires on my generator setup look original and made to go where they were. One wire is shorter than other and they both have the same dog leg connection to the regulator. The longer wire went from the "Gen" on the regulator to "A" on the generator. The short wire went to the "F" on both the generator and regulator. Does anyone know why this set up is different than any of the diagrams I have been looking at? Even the the inset on page 2 of the electrical manual shows just the one wire going from the "Gen" on the regulator to "A" on the generator. If the connections and wiring looked rigged and my electrical repair questioned it, I would not be raising questions. I am just trying to get to the why and if I need keep my setup the same.
I will make an attempt to 'splain this. Your 48 Cub would originally have been wired like the diagram. At some time in it's life, the light switch failed, or more likely lost ground. The shortcut to fix this is to wire it as you describe. Wired like this it will only charge at one rate, don't remember if it's high or low charge. Hope this helps.
Have a good day, Art
Yeah, what Arthur Luke said. It would also have been wired that way if the tractor had a starter but no lights.
This discussion is all revolving around the proper wiring if you have a cut-out rather than a full regulator. That is how a '48 would have been originally equipped. There are replacement regulators that mount on the generator in place of a cut-out. The replacement regulator should also be wired F to F. So we really can't tell you how to wire it without knowing what you are actually working with. You have pictures of and numbers off of your regulator?
I applied to be set up on photohost a day or so ago. As soon as I get set up I will post pictures. While I am waiting for that to take place could someone tell me if you are looking at the diagram that Rudi posted in this posting, is the left wire connection point on the ammeter positive and the right connection point negative? Also can someone explain, if the firing order of the Cub is 1, 3, 4 and 2 why do the wires, moving clockwise on the magneto go 1, 4, 3 and 2 as shown in an electrical diagram, in the manuals above, for a Cub with 6 bolt mageto ignition for serial numbers 210,000 and below?
I have not had any luck adding pictures. I am going to have to do some more reading to figure out what I am doing wrong. I did however find the answer to my question of wiring the the generator and regulator. Per John Brillman, the wire that was running between the "F" on the generator and "F" on the regulator was necessary on Cubs that did not have lights. Apparently the lights on my Cub were an afterthought. My Cub is completely wired now and I cranked it for the first time in 8 years today. I am down to the hood and I need to find a good sheet metal man to repair several rips, bows and dents.
I told you that in my previous post almost a week ago.
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