Cub transport. Tie downs on the castings?

[Buzzard Wing]

I figure that all the travel coming up with Cubs in tow means that you guys know something about tying one down.

I was thinking a eye to the flat equipment mount holes on the transmission/clutch would be a good idea. I think the hardware store has a good selection of forged eyes that one of em may do the trick. I saw that ArtC has a piece of flat stock drilled with 3 holes.... 2 with bolts to the 'flat' spots and one with a chain 'link' that appears to be used to tie it down with. .

Any suggestions?? Now that I have paint on the Cub I am not going to run a come-a-long wire over the top of the torque tube when I do transport the Cub.

[Buzzard Wing]

That is probably not a bad deal (until it goes above the start price). I should dig up a photo of what ArtC has on his cub. Simple but effective, same idea as that ebay item, but only the flat stock with a hold in the end for a chain link for attaching a chain or whatever.

[Bigdog]

I have 2 pairs of those (didn't come from e-bay). I have not had a chance to use them yet but I believe they will work fine.

[George Willer]

Here's an idea from a group member, Whit Middleton. It looks good to me... I have 2 of them. I don't know if Whit still plans to make and sell them.

[Bigdog]

George, I have one of those as well and I agree, it works very well. Curly has travelled extensively with one of those.

[WKPoor]

I use something that is cheep and readily available. Threaded forged I-bolts.

[beaconlight]

George I see that you are using tapered head inplement bolts. Do they ever loosen? Would a long bolt with a lock keep vibration from loosening?

Bill

[George Willer]

George I see that you are using tapered head inplement bolts. Do they ever loosen? Would a long bolt with a lock keep vibration from loosening?

Bill

Bill,

That's Whit's tractor. I do it differently. For the cultivator bar I use regular bolts with the end reduced in diameter so they don't mushroom and make removal difficult. They have to be too long for a lock washer to be effective or they won't clamp the bar.

When I find one that's mushroomed I run them in as far as possible and cut them off on the inside using a SawZall. That avoids damaging the threads.

[Kudzu]

Why not use nylon straps?? Granted my cub ain't purrty but that is how I move it around. Unless a strap was loose it's not going to damage paint is it?

[beaconlight]

I meant to say lock nut with the long bolt. I am the nut that left the nut out of the posting. That Idea of running musahroomed ones in, then using a sawsall is real genius. I had debated about using ground ends on grade 2 bolts , I had also considered grade 8 bolts. I gave up on the grade 8 idea for fear of damaging beyond repair the casting threads. Hey I just had an idea, could a helicoil be used there or is the casting too thin at that spot? I don't remember and my cub is 173 miles north west.

Bill

[Jim Becker]

Whit's bracket looks like a good idea for somebody that is a better welder than I am. For holding something in place in the front implement socket, the best choice would be a setscrew. IH wasn't very consistent on that, using a setscrew for the mower but not much else. Setscrews won't mushroom on the inner end either.

The eyebolts are OK as long as you are careful about the strength limits and keep it oriented correctly. The one that WK posted has a shoulder, which is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY for this use. Ones with no shoulder are only usable for a straight pull. Even the ones with a shoulder are severely downrated at an angle. At a 45 degree angle, they are downrated by 75 percent. So the 4,300# rating of a 5/8 forged eyebolt ends up pretty low if you pull sideways on it.

One of the most important things is to pull 4 directions on your load. I have done one to the front and one to the back for short hauls but I didn't even like doing it then. Tie downs always loosen. So stop and retighten after you have driven a bit. I recheck chains every time I stop.

[Dale51]

Guys & Gals,
I hate to tell you but some of your tie downs are not legal as per DOT regulations.
Please remember that this year the DOT will be looking at all trailers & trucks hauling any kind of equipment.
To chain down you cub properly you need to tie down your cub in 4
places pulling in 4 different directions.
Chain as follows 75% against forward movement ,45% against rearward movement,60% sideways & last but not least 20% vertical movement.
Chains have to have the proper rating also I don't have the chain ratings in front of me as they are in my 18 Wheeler caution manufactures ratings are not the same as DOTS.
Snap binders must have bungee cord or something to hold them closed.
Last but not least no part of the tie down (chain , strap) maybe out side of the trailer.
If you contact your local DOT officer (state police) he can show the regs.
I have this info as I drive 18 wheels for a living.
We also had the local DOT Officer come to our local engine & tractor club meeting for this reason there were so red faces when he was done.
He suggested that all clubs have a DOT Officer come to a meeting for this purpose.

These regs. took affect Jan. 1, 2005

DOT = Department Of Transportation & Safety

[beaconlight]

Jim I never imagined there to be a 5/8 set screw. Learn more every day.

Bill

[artc]

pete's side tie downs, courtesy of BW' s photo

http://www.qvea.org/member%20photos/LarryDavis/May_gas_up/QVEA_May2005_GasUp_46.JPG

[Jim Becker]

We also had the local DOT Officer come to our local engine & tractor club meeting for this reason there were so red faces when he was done.
He suggested that all clubs have a DOT Officer come to a meeting for this purpose.

I agree with this in theory. In practice, I get different answers every time I talk to these guys.

We had one at a meeting last year that explained something and said it was ok, then said something like "At least it is OK with me. The next guy down the road might say something different."