Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Hi all - my local auto-parts store who's sourcing all of my new parts for '48 Cub Restoration - Can also get Valspar Paint & Primer for IH RED. Anyone used this paint/primer before? Please advise the results obtained.
Thanks for your help, Ken
Ken, That's what I used on my 1948 cub. I had no problems with Valspar paint. I would use the hardener they sell. It takes awhile to dry without it. I just did a mower deck and didn't use hardener seems still soft yet. Thanks Alex
If you use a catalyst or hardener make sure that you also utilize proper safety gear. After 5 decades of finishing with mulit-parts and nitro's I now recommend using External Air Supplied Breathing Systems or even better SCBA's depending on what your budget holds. No matter what the budget, believe me from painful experience - your budget must be able to afford one of them. If you choose not to use a catalyst/hardener then you will still need a higher end cartridge style respirator. Otherwise, the probability that you will end up with COPD or Pulmonary Fibrosis is much, much higher. You don't want to have to pay for those meds and therapies ---- ask me
With that said, I like the CaseIH products that I have used in the past but much prefer the Dupont Centari line or the Nason line for painting equipment. A little more expensive but well worth the extra cost to my mind.
Thanks Rudi - I worked 31 years in chemical manufacturing with some really NASTY stuff - always taking the correct precautions. Do you have a preferred supplier for these supplies?
Green can or Restoration Series?
I know a lot of people that have issues with the green can Valspar paint turning pink after a few years. So far the Restoration Series red on my H is holding up mint. It went on nice with a splash of thinner, no runs.
I've got a gallon and 3 quarts sitting here that need to go on a tractor before it turns to a solid lump.
My local C-Max was always my go to supplier. They were bought out by NAPA so now I am looking for a new supplier. Might be NAPA, might not be. Since my stroke last year I haven't been in a huge rush. Bob in Ct has a neat outfit that he uses to paint with, and that is the type that I am looking for. Maybe Bob can pop in with some info and pictures.
This Ford jubilee was painted with the Valspar Restoration Series paint in the Ford colors. The entire tractor was painted with spray cans one piece at a time then assembled. This was done over the fall and winter of 2010, 2011. Was very happy with the results and how it has held up so far. It is a little softer then the paint used with hardener.
We all make mistakes
I try to keep mine to a minimum
Hey thanks Dan - Rudi gave me one wake-up call on hardener and my neighbor several years ago got really sick in the shop he worked in from working with it. I'm thinking regular Valspar or IH Paint and Primer might be the safest choice. As I don;t really have a paint job with safe exhaust.
Nice looking tractors you've got there.
I really hate to be a party pooper.... but safety is foremost in my mind now. Even aerosols without hardener, quart cans of paint etc., and celluloids also can give off harmful VOC's and require a respirator and adequate ventilation as well. Even low VOC water borne finishes need respirators and proper ventilation. There is no such thing as a safe finish, just safe finishing practices. Catalysts/hardeners or multi-part finishes are just a lot more riskier than others, but even the less risky require respect and safe practices. So when you go to paint, make sure you use a proper respirator and cartridge.
This type is the bare minimum to be used with non-catalytic finishes, low VOC's and celluloids:
pic courtesy of eastwood.com
You must have the proper cartridges as well as fibre filter covers for the cartridges.
If you can put it into your budget then this type is even better:
pic courtesy of turbineproducts.com
This is a supplied fresh air system, but they start around $500.00. Worth it in my opinion (my concentrator was $4,000.00) These are also used with a paint suit. In fact use a suit for any finishing
Rudi et al - thanks again.
Final question I promise - I just want RauCub-1 to come out the best possible given time, budget and safety. After all of this, I guess the final question is, can I obtain a good quality paint job, with primer and paint, sans hardener?
Thanks again for all the help.
Not sure how I missed this before - but it's clear WE WILL NOT BE USING HARDENER. I don't have the money for the proper equipment and I won't take the chances.
I am not a paint expert, but yes you can. The paint will take longer to really get hard, and you need to be more careful of gasoline spills for the first few moths, but you can get a good job. I do not think paint hardener had been invented yet when the majority of these tractors came from the factory.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
Yes you can. Depends on the quality of paint that you buy. The CaseIH paint (not sure who makes it now) used to be good, but I cannot speak to it. The older quart cans I have are pretty good and the rattle cans were good as well. You can buy good paint loaded into aerosol/rattle cans at any good auto paint store. They cost a bit more than say Valspar or others. But you can get it mixed to match 2150 Red. My last post was just to ensure that you know that just because you use a non-catalytic paint doesn't mean it is inherently safer because it isn't. It will just take longer to do the damage. All of these finishes are well, complicated and need proper protection.
TremClad/RustOleum has been a pretty good off the shelf paint for me. I have used it both in quart/gallon and rattle cans with good success over the years on many items from my pond pump to the Putt Putt and trailers that take a lot of abuse. TremClad/RustOleum is pretty darn tough. I don't bother with any other paint unless I want a really good finish - then I go to the multi-parts. Oh yeah, if you use a good primer with TremClad/RustOleum then the finish is even better. Just takes time to cure.
Just sayin .....
There is no "Valspar" paint. Valspar make a wide range of paint from alkyd enamel to urethane. If you are thinking of using the inexpensive valspar implement paint then you are going to use alkyd paint. I have used this paint from tractor supply both with and with out hardener. Without hardener and using the recommended naptha thinner, it took weeks to dry and months to harden. With a real reducer, drys much faster. With hardener, dries and cures quickly but still fades over many months.
What paint to use depends on what you want as an outcome. Alkyd red will fade, longer lasting acrylic will eventially fade, urethane will last the longest. If you are going to spend the time and money then you may want to use at least acrylic enamel paint. I have some white riding mower parts painted with rattle can alkyd white, 5 coats or so to get a shine but still looks good 10 years later. Unfortunately red will fade more than other colors. The same thing in red would have been dull in months and faded within a year.
It all depends on what you want. Any paint is better than rust.
I have access to medical literature but have not found any good studies on the real risk level assoclated with isocyanate hardeners. Lots of hype on the web but no strong consistent data in the medical literature at least as of a few years ago. Too many variables to parse. Hardener is also legal to buy, over the counter, no special permit needed. Is the EPA just behind the times? Maybe.
Most of the risk is with long term exposure, unless you work as a painter then that is not the risk I would be concerned with. There is also a non-dose related risk that may be a hypersensitivity allergic response. This apparently can come from one or a few exposures. That is the risk I would worry about since it is not predictable. I had an injection in my left eye on Friday. At $4000 a drop I thought that stuff should work well. An hour later I had no usable vision out of my left eye. Still don't. Bummer! That is an idiosyncratic response. Was not predicted by the FDA, just happens. Same with the non-dose related side effects of isocyanates. Idiosyncratic. Just depends on how lucky you feel.
I disagree with Rudi on the real risk level associated with hardeners but I do agree with him that all of the VOCs in paint can be bad over the long term. Where isocyanates fall in that risk spectrum does not seem to be well worked out. The safest thing to do is not use hardeners but it will make a difference in curing time, shine, etc...
Valspar made IH Ironguard paint and likely still does. It is alkyd enamel. For the time and effort it takes to paint, I would use at least acrylic enamel, not much more expensive. If you use an alkyd enamel, don't use naptha as a thinner, it will take forever to dry, use a real reducer for the temperature you will be painting .
Who is online