Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:31 pm
Funny thing about those Cub pilot bushings. I like having all the tools I might need on hand so before I did my first Cub split I bought a blind bearing puller. Imagine my surprise when the pilot bushing just pulled out when I stuck my finger into it...
Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:49 pm
I learned some more tonight. That cotter pin behind the TO bearing is a bugger to get at!! I got the new TO bearing in, the governor linkage freed up, new spring put on, and put the gov back in. I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel.
kthomas, I was surprised with the pilot bushing too, but a good surprise it was!
Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:29 pm
I got the 2 halves of the Cub back together today. Took me an hour doing it by myself, would have been easier with help. Now it's gasket replacement time. Oil pan, final drive pans. Adjust valves, rebuild carb and I should be good to go.
Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:22 am
It always amazes me how many times I have said "Then I should be good to go" and soon after that I find 10 more things that need to be done.....but I wouldn't have it any other way...I enjoy working on this little tractor ....almost as much as the seat time.....almost...
Mon Apr 08, 2013 4:16 pm
Charles, I'm sure I'll find something as I dig into things a bit, but hopefully I have everything covered. I ordered everything I thought I'd need 2 months in advance and so far so good except for a flywheel.
Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:07 pm
hello all from the deeep south , 81 degrees today , cut the grass at my house , shop , and next door neighbor to the shop , about three hours of exceptional seat time . tom, if something crazy happens with the flywheel shipment , i have an extra you can have . it came off a "parts" tractor and i doubt i'll ever need it. coppersmythe..........ps: the grass was flying from the " harold " lo-boy , a special thanks to harold in monroe .
Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:16 pm
Thanks for the offer coppersmythe, but Dale Finch came through with a good one. The hard part is done, now it's just a bunch of little stuff that takes time.
Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:47 am
Good Morning to everyone ! I just joined and have to say from reading all the great stuff on your site, it is a pleasure to be a member.
Now for the low down. I recently bought a '48 cub,and of course it needs some attention. Biggest issue,or at least first issue I am dealing with is the clutch. I have split the cub.Have done a few "while I'm in there" things. Rear main seal, got clutch and break pedal freed up( you about had to stand on it to even get it to budge) Have done some rewiring while I have the hood off,cleaned things up a bit from what must have been a long unattended rest here in the very damp Pacific Northwest. I have been doing a lot of reading about adjusting my new clutch. I have a what I guess must be an early '48,'cause the free travel adjustment is inside,as there is no adjustment on the pedal. That should be a real challenge for me.Actually,anything I will have to do through that iddy bitty hole in the tube my break my spirit of owning my first Cub ! Anyway, on to a question I have for Eugene. The idea of adjusting the clutch fingers to great tolerance like you talked about,OUTSIDE the Bell Housing sure has my attention. I'm sorry I don't quite have the procedure you use completely understood. I mount the clutch to my flywheel,and I'm not understanding what I'm doing with my drill press to set the finger.Can you explain this a little more for me? It sounds like a really good method,and I sure would like to get it right BEFORE it put the two pieces back together. Also. is there any way I can get my free travel close,or done with cub split? what a concept that is ! Ok, Thanks you guys ! Happy to be here! Peter
Fri Jun 28, 2013 4:33 pm
Peter wrote:a question for Eugene. The idea of adjusting the clutch fingers to great tolerance like you talked about,OUTSIDE the Bell Housing sure has my attention. I'm sorry I don't quite have the procedure you use completely understood.
I have a large drill press with good sized table and swing. The pressure plate will fit on the drill press table with one finger under the chuck. If your table is not big enough you can mount a thick piece of plywood on the table to support the pressure plate.
Adjust one pressure plate finger height to 1 1/4" from the disk. Mark the finger. Drill bit mounted upside down in the chuck.
Set pressure plate with clutch disk mounted, on the table. Run quill/drill bit down until it touches the center of the marked finger. Lock down the quill or quill stop - depending on your drill press. Feeler gauge the distance between the marked finger and the bottom end of the drill bit. You might have to make a slight turn of the quill stop/lock to get clearance.
Any way, once the drill press is set up, set all pressure plate finger heights to the same feeler gauge clearance.
Fri Jun 28, 2013 4:59 pm
Eugene, Thanks. Pretty sure I can do that on my press.It's an old one, but pretty good size. In theory then,this puts the three fingers all at same adjustment in relation to the first finger set at 1.25". Is this adjustment so critical as it needs to be set with feeler gauge to thousands of the inch. I wouldn't be close as I would need to be just setting them all with a ruler at 1.25" ?
Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:58 pm
Peter wrote:In theory then,this puts the three fingers all at same adjustment in relation to the first finger set at 1.25".
Correct. The specifications indicate a .015" +/- difference in pressure plate finger height.
Fri Jun 28, 2013 9:13 pm
Very good Eugene. That's pretty non forgiving than. I will use the drill press idea of yours. Thanks very much. Peter
Fri Jun 28, 2013 9:18 pm
Oh hey, is that 1 1/4 from disk you talk of from the face of the disk @ the fly wheel? Thanks !
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