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Bolts Out, Now, New Question about Rust!

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Galla Creek Arky
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Bolts Out, Now, New Question about Rust!

Postby Galla Creek Arky » Sun May 08, 2005 10:34 am

Image
As you can see, I got the bolts out due to all your good advice. I bought
the Seats Boltout kit.

Now, I am taking my paint off down to the bare metal. i am doing this without a sand blaster. So it is a slow process which I am enjoying doing and do not mind. My question is--do you mix primer up everytime you work for an hour or so and just have a little paint removed ....or do you buy a good spray can of primer and use it. If i use a spray can of primer...what brand and what color should I use?

Thanks a lot.
Larry Renfroe
488 Galla Creek Lane
Pottsville, AR. 72858
479 890 8090
I have a 1957 Farmall Cub I am restoring.
I have a 1973 Farmall Cub that I use for mowing and 1974 Farmall Cub for gardening.

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johnbron
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Postby johnbron » Sun May 08, 2005 12:46 pm

I keep it simple and use the Wal-Mart brand of Red-Oxide spray can primer. I had no problem with it on my other Cub so I just did the same area as you are doing on the Cub I just bought. I cleaned the rust with a wire cup-wheel brush and primed it for future work whenever I get to it. My preference has been red primer but you can use the gray if you prefer.
Then came Bronson

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Jim Hudson
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Postby Jim Hudson » Sun May 08, 2005 12:58 pm

You may like Rust Killer spray can from Auto Zone. I did. Then use primer.
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Scott
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Postby Scott » Sun May 08, 2005 2:10 pm

Rust-Oleum make something called metal saver rust remover. it cinverts the rust into a paintable surface. We used it on my front rims after using a little wire wheel on a drill. seemed to work pretty good
Image On To Bigger Things

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Postby Buzzard Wing » Mon May 09, 2005 6:45 am

I prime whenever I remove paint (Ok rust!). Hopefully it was just the metal cleaner I used (don't use starting fluid!) that is causing the adhesion problems.... it easily nicks and scratches.
I mostly used the Rustoleum Gray automotive primer... but really don't have a recommendation for it. I switched to the white brush on primer, that leaves brush marks and requires a bit of clean up, but seems to be a good way to go.
Hopefully this is encouraging:
Image
Image

I did a partial dip electrolisys on the battery box, the whole thing won't fit. It just doesn't get the inside of the box. I also did the seat post and spring in the tank too.
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1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

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Dan England
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Postby Dan England » Mon May 09, 2005 8:49 am

Larry: I use spray cans of oven cleaner to remove grease and paint when preparing an item for painting. It sure speeds up the process of cleaning up the parts. Also, it gets into those hard to reach places and cleans out the old paint and grease from areas which aren't wide enough to get a wire brush into. I buy the cheapest brand which I can find, often a dollar per can. Dan

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Buzzard Wing
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Mon May 09, 2005 5:55 pm

That is an excellent tip... I struggled with simple green and all manner of cleaners, but NOTHING I tried beats oven cleaner for grease removal!
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

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Postby Carm » Mon May 09, 2005 6:52 pm

I use a rust converter like Extend or some naval jelly. I am using an automotive high build primer that cleans up easily.

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Postby kylev » Mon May 09, 2005 8:22 pm

Ok I am trying to paint my cub also. My question is this. I dont want to take down the entire cub into small pieces to paint it. I have taken alot of the small parts on the side of the engine off and painted them by themselves and now I am down to just the engine by itself and transmission. There is alot of paint that is on there pretty good that I dont want to have to take off with a wire wheel. But in places there is paint that is just flaking off. Is it ok to take just the loose paint off and leave the good paint on and repaint the entire machine like that?

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Postby beaconlight » Mon May 09, 2005 8:32 pm

Paint doesn't stick to grease or oil. Eveen if you take the paint of you have to remove grease and oil. Try the oven cleaner trick mentioned earlier in the post. Remember that the grease is in all the little cracks and crevaces as well as where parts fit together. You can do it your way but it will not last as long before showing signs of wear.

Bill
Last edited by beaconlight on Thu May 12, 2005 9:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bill

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NJ Farmer
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Postby NJ Farmer » Tue May 10, 2005 6:28 am

You are doing an excellent job of restoring that beautiful machine! May I recommend that you preserve your hard work by using a self-etching primers from Dupont or PPG. These primers with adhere to the metal far better than spray bombs and are extremely resistant to solvents and breakdown.

You can mix up a small batch into a small sprayer and touch up what you need.

Just a helpful hint...

NJ Farmer

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue May 10, 2005 8:08 am

Harbor Freight sells a refillable aerosol sprayer you charge with an air source for $9.99. Supposed to be uesable for paints, pesticides, etc. I have one, but have not yet tried it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... umber=1102


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por-15

Postby rret » Tue May 10, 2005 9:55 pm

use this for rust: http://www.por15.com. i do not work for them, i just love their product. water/moisture actually makes the paint "stronger".
Better Red than green.

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Postby Buzzard Wing » Tue May 10, 2005 10:19 pm

I did use something called 'Rust Mort' in some places.... seems to work well.

But I completely agree with the self-etching primer suggestion by NJ Farmer. Words can't express how I feel when the paint flies off! The brush on primer seems to be much better, but nothing will beat a good self-etching primer as a foundation for a great paint job.

Some of the problem may be caused by the cold temps this winter and my late additon of a decent furnace. Expensive to bring the garage (and the castings) up more than 50 degrees!
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

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Postby Paul_NJ » Tue May 10, 2005 11:15 pm

How to protect cleaned parts from re-rusting when you only have time to do one or two at a time was my biggest dilemma on my restoration project last year.

On my current project, I've been using a product called Picklex 20 to hold a stripped part from developing surface rust until I accumulate enough pieces to warrant spraying them all with primer. It is a phosphoric acid based coating that etches into the steel and apparently passivates it from further corrosion. It has been working well for me so far. I went through a lot of rattle cans of etch primer ($15 per) on the last project until I heard about this stuff. You are supposed to be able to treat an entire tractor with a quart of this stuff ($40)

I also learned that epoxy primer provides an impervious coating that is hard to beat. I'm using a PPG OMNI product MP170. You mix it with hardener and it sprays very easily. It has an 8 hour pot life. I shoot it over the Picklex 20 after first wiping the residue off with a red ScotchBrite pad.
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