More Questions for the Experts!

[Galla Creek Arky]

Guys, how far should you go with the rebuild of the tractor. Should you fix things that aren't broken? I always heard "If it ain't broke; don't fix it." Is that true with the restoring a cub?

I have got to clean my gas tank. I heard that I should use vinegar. Is this the best thing to use? Can i stop the rust from coming back?

Also, what color should the cultivators and hardward for them be?

Thanks.

[Rudi]

Larry:

I guess you go as far as you want to go with a rebuild. However, I imagine you have been watching the threads since you became a member or even longer, and have probably noticed that fuel issues seem to be one of the most common threads. It is

So, and this is just from my perspective, while your tank is off, drain it, flush/purge it and take it to your local radiator shop and have them clean and seal the tank with Red Kote. It will cost approximately $75.00 to $80.00, but it would be money well spent. One, it will guarantee that you do not have dirt and crap in your tank seaping into the sediment bowl then the carb. Two, it will keep the stink and the mess where it belongs - someone else's shop Three - you WILL NOT be exposed to dangerous noxious/toxic vapours which are decidedly kinda explosive...

I don't know how many times I cleaned/rebuilt my sediment bowl, cleaned/rebuilt/tweaked my carb, played with the governor and everything else I could think of to solve my fuel issues with Ellie. Ifn I had used my head in the beginning and spent the $80.00 the first time around, it would not have caused me the headaches or the bother that I had in trying to resolve the fuel issues.

As for the cultivators, well the frames, bars, clamps, wedges and shanks on mine are red, the tines were also red except where the ground wore the paint off.... ifn I could remember the correct word for that....

Some where blue in places, but most of the 144's I have seen were red.

[Brent]

If I have something apart that is hard to get apart and it has seals, I replace them. Maybe it's just my luck but the times I didn't ,sure enough they leaked after I got everything back togeather.

[Jim Becker]

You asking about cultivators for the '57? I think this is right. It wasn't much later that blue went away. Some of these parts don't exist with a Fast-Hitch.

Front universal mounting frames, rear rockshaft red.

Crossbar and rear pressure rod assemblies red.

Main tool bars, front and rear blue.

Most standards, spring trips etc. black.

Clamps probably black although blue ones have shown up.

Shields blue.

Most ground contact surfaces (sweeps, hiller disks etc.) varnish, to be removed before use. I use spray wax on those surfaces.

[Dan Stuckey]

Depending on how far you have your Cub torn down, if it's split and your close to the clutch, I'd certainly take a real good look at the disc, p plate and t/o bushing. And if the drives are apart, think about the brake bands also. Although these parts aren't free, think about the price to labor factor should they go in a year or so.

Dan Stuckey
Altoona, Pa.

[Dan England]

Larry: I cleaned and sealed the gas tank on a cub several years ago using a product called POR-15. I have had no problem with the tank since sealing it. If you wish to do the job, rather than paying to having it done, go to "www.por15.com" for info on how to do it. It is not a difficult process and your cost would be about half of the cost of having it done. Dan