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Postby greg bottom » Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:29 pm

:lost: how can i get my blade not to dig in
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Re: lost

Postby Goraidh (Jeff) » Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:36 pm

A few ways: Install the flexible clevis, install a set of snowshoes, or install a rubber cutting edge. Good luck.
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Re: lost

Postby tmays » Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:38 pm

Angle top of blade forward
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Re: lost

Postby Former Member » Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:31 pm

tmays wrote:Angle top of blade forward


This is done by removing the carriage bolt from the bracket, holding the bottom spring to the frame. Reinsert the bolt in the hole closest to the blade. (there are 3 holes)

This holds the bottom of the blade closer to the tractor, changing the angle of the cutting edge, allowing the blade to push, but without it scraping. It will float over hard objects.
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Re: lost

Postby greg bottom » Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:29 pm

will this work on rock
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Re: lost

Postby Former Member » Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:36 pm

Yes, better than in snow. Remember though, it will ride over high spots, and you will not be able to push large amounts of material.
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Re: lost

Postby danovercash » Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:25 pm

If you are spreading/working gravel, belly mount the blade. This only works on F-Cub, not lo-boy or number series.



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Re: lost

Postby greg bottom » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:02 pm

will this work with snow on a rock driveway
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Re: lost

Postby gitractorman » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:17 pm

The only "intended" use for a blade in the front mount position, is pushing snow. It is meant to drop to a solid surface, ride on the shoes, and push snow. The blade is not designed to maintain grade while in the snow pushing position, and it does not have enough leverage to keep from digging or climbing. This is why snow blades have shoes on them, to allow the snow to "load" the blade, keeping it on the pavement, pushing on the shoes, and push to clear the snow. This will also work on gravel drives, but you have to set the shoes deeper in order to prevent pushing gravel everywhere.

If you want to grade things, you need to mount the blade in the mid / belly mount position. In this position, the lift rod is directly up/down, directly above the blade, and you now have excellent depth control. Matter of fact, the manual will tell you to remove the shoes from the blade, so that you can dig with the blade mounted in the belly position. I can tell you that you can hold grade to within 1 inch with the blade mounted in the belly position. I graded out an acre of topsoil this way, and I was able to hit every grade mark perfectly. You couldn't do it if you tried with the blade in the front position, because all it wants to do is climb or dig, as it was designed to do in that position.
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Re: lost

Postby greg bottom » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:21 pm

im all new to this
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Re: lost

Postby tmays » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:54 pm

I didn't know you were doing snow across gravel. I agree with gitractorman. You definitely need the shoes.
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Re: lost

Postby Denny Clayton » Fri Nov 16, 2012 7:35 am

To avoid digging into the gravel, I plow snow in my driveway with the blade held up about 1 or 2 inches using the touch control. Some areas it is easier to back drag. It is very effective when doing my barnyard and driveway. It isn't necessary to clear all the snow down the gravel. If you can't drive on 1 or 2 inches of snow packed down, you need a different car or truck.
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