stripped threads holding the drawbar

John Schnaubelt · Postby **John Schnaubelt** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:44 pm

My Farmall cub threads in the casting that holds the drawbar have become stripped. They will no longer pull up tight to hold the drawbar.

Anybody know how to go about fixing this problem???

This is an active tree farm working tractor ....... bummer to have it down ...... now it is only good for parades ...... need to get it back into the fields where it belongs

john

Postby **Rudi** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:51 pm

John:

First, welcome to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met :!:

For your specific question, I think the best choice would be to put in Heli-coils. I have not done this yet and Ellie has one hole that needs to be done. However, I have read many threads on this very problem. If you do a search on Heli-coils, you should get some interesting reading. I am sure that the other guys may pop in and offer other/better solutions.. hope this helps though.

It is nice to meet members who have working Cubs on working farms. Be interested to see pics of your operation and of course with the Cub.

beaconlight · Postby **beaconlight** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 8:10 pm

Use the tapered bolts to hold your draw bar after the helicoils. IH enginered the hell out of these little monsters. What probably has happened is flat head bolts holding things together and a little slipping lossened the connection and it worked back and forth eating away the threads. I direct this looking ahead to the future that you don't loose the helicoils or crack the housing. See an example of a tapered bolt.

http://www.tmtractor.com/dr/324fp.htm

your implements have a taper too so that when the bolt is tight there is no lateral (sliding) movement. This takes up any slack created by manufacturing tolerances or wear by use.
There are longer implement mounting bolts than TM tractor supplies. Case IH has them way over priced but they are worth every penny of the cost by having tightly fastened implements and no torn up mounting bolt holes.
Hate to sound like an old maid on this but it will makle life easier.
Bye the Bye where is your tree farm?

Bill

Postby **Dan England** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 8:17 pm

John: I used helicoils to repair stripped holes on the final drives about five years ago. I try to keep the drawbar or implements bolted tightly to the drives and the helicoil repairs are still in good condition. This is a very satisfactory solution for fixing stripped bolt holes. Dan

Postby **Buzzard Wing** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 8:55 pm

My cub is also going to a tree ranch one day, soon as I get it back together. Now I am stumped (could be a pun) about the tapered bolts. I bought grade 8's to put in there. I have an IH c-2 mower and that does not have tapered holes if I recall.

So should I need the tapered bolts or are the flat heads ok The old ones were pretty bad.

Jim Hudson · Postby **Jim Hudson** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 9:33 pm

No tapered holes on my Danco mower. This shows the final drive side but the other side is the same.

Postby **Jim Becker** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 9:34 pm

You have to look at whatever you are mounting and see if it has holes with a taper or not. The tapered bolts typically go with things that have a slot rather than a simple round hole.

John Schnaubelt · Postby **John Schnaubelt** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:52 pm

hey all u Farmall Cub lovers who responded to my cub problem. Everybody suggests a helicoil .......... is that possible in a casting?? My employees suggest filling the holes with weld and redrilling and tapping. I am not smart enuf to know which is better .......... please keep responding and help me get this Cub back in operation.

And yes ......... all you guys who said the threads loosened do to vibration .......... very true ......... I had No 6 contructin grade rock put in on my farm lane going out to the fields ........ I think that jarred everyuthing loose that drove over it.

John

Postby **Bigdog** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:54 pm

John, the helicoils will hold fine in the cast. I would trust them before I would the welding of cast and re-drilling.

Postby **John *.?-!.* cub owner** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:59 pm

To fill the cast with weld you would need to tkae the selas, etc. out and preheat it to keep it form crakcing due to the heat wouldn't you?

Postby **Bigdog** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:04 pm

Welding will create more stess in the cast.

Postby **Dan England** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:17 pm

I agree with BD and John. Properly installed helicoils will solve the problem. Dan

beaconlight · Postby **beaconlight** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:44 pm

Keep everything tight. Recheck occassionally. If it were steel welding and drilling out would be fine but this is cast iron.

Bill

Postby **Buzzard Wing** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 6:55 am

Thanks Jim for the photo and answer on the Danco.

Taper would be perfect on the drawbar mounts as they have a tapered slot (so you can detach it without removing the bolts) but the mower mount iis not tapered.

So my bolts are fine....

Guess you are in trouble if you jam the mower into something, as the poster's problem would be yours now too? I will have to be very careful.

Ron L · Postby **Ron L** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:14 am

Popper John. Listen to them. DEFINATELY heli-coils. If the job is done properly, it will be close to "as good as original". You just need the proper drill & tap and installation tooling (I believe that hole is 5/8"-11). Use loc-tite on the insert and don't forget to break the tab off when it's deep enough ......

The taper headed bolts are also used in aligning along with the movement restriction benefit (such as wheel lugs).

stripped threads holding the drawbar

stripped threads holding the drawbar

threads holding the drawbar

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