What works better for snow ? A forward blade or a belly ?

[rick 48 cub]

Hi All,

In addition to being good to look at, I want to make my Cub useful. I would greatly appreciate any advice/experience/opinions members have concerning the best mounting position (and blade type) for a snow plow blade.

Thanks for all of the recent tips on changing the rear tires by myself !

Rick in Minnesota

[Mac from NS]

Hi Rick : no contest the snowplow should be on front

[cowboy]

Hi Rick

For snow you are better off with the blade mounted on the front. If it is mounted in the center the snow can pack up behind the front wheels making it hard to back up.

Billy

[(CUB HUT)]

Rick I use mine in the forward position, keeps snow from piling up under the tractor & having to drag the front wheels back through it.

[George Willer]

Rick,

It will depend on your individual need. The belly blade is much easier to control and would be first choice for grading. It would work well for snow plowing too... unless you have to pile snow. It can be a big problem backing away and getting the front wheels over the pile. For that reason most prefer the front position just for snow.

[rick 48 cub]

Thanks for the recommendation for the front mount.

Next step - what kind or type of blade should I get ? It would be nice to get one to operate off of the hydraulics, to get one that actuates both up and down and side to side. Finally, I want to make sure that it is designed to take a hit from an immovable object without damaging the tractor. Several months ago one of the forum members broke off part of the engine casting when hitting a water valve or something in his driveway.

Thanks again,

Rick

[Matt Kirsch]

Here your choices are more limited. You either get an old Cub blade (54 or 54A, big $$$!) or you're on your own. On your own, as in you will have to fabricate your own blade mounting system, and possibly the blade itself. This isn't like a pick-em-up truck where you can go down to your local truck equipper and have them install a Meyers plow on it, or buy a NEW bolt-on kit.

Hydraulic lift, okay. The Cub blades are designed to be linked to the hydraulic lift under the gas tank. Power angle? Not a stock option, but people have added it. It's another fabrication project to add the angle cylinder to a stock blade. Plus, you'll need the hydraulic "bypass block" ($75.00), a small cylinder, hoses, and an open-center spool valve.

By fabrication, I mean steel, welder, torch, grinder, etc.. If your fabrication skills are limited, your options will be limited...

[Rudi]

Rick:

I would suggest that if possible and is affordable you try and find either a McCormick-Deering Leveling and Grader Blade (early version), a Cub-54 Leveling and Grader Blade (new and improved version0 or the Cub-54A Leveling and Grader Blade (final version).

As you know, much of the information on these various blades are available by searching the threads with the key words Grader Blade or by visiting the Cub Manual Server.

If however you cannot find one of these Cub specific blades, then might I suggest that you actually build your own.

I have not yet tried out my McCormick-Deering Leveling and Grader Blade as it is still in the restoration and conversion to a Cub-54 Blade. But I have been using my Snow Plow Blade for the previous 2 years.

The drawings are available on the Cub Manual Server under the Implement and Part Sketches link.

This blade works very well even though it was originally built to use on an A I would recommend though that square tubing stock be used instead of the round stock as it would be easier to asssemble/weld and such.

Hope this helps