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Crankshaft pulley question

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cowboy
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Crankshaft pulley question

Postby cowboy » Thu Mar 24, 2005 2:57 pm

:?: Can I pull off the crankshaft pulley without pulling off the front of the tractor :?: my old one was broken and badly welded back together. I just got a good one to replace it with. The one on it is not worth saving so I am not worried about saving it. The pulley radiator and rebuilding the carb is all I have left to do before putting it back together. Its getting warm and my neighbor said I can do mowing in his field and I am ready for some seat time :!:

Oh by the way how long should I run it before I retorque the head :?:
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.

"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:19 pm

Cowboy, I'm afraid the only way you are going to get that crankshaft pulley off is to pull the front end.

as far as the head bolts go, I would re-check them after 20 to 30 minutes of running time and then again after 2 or 3 hours of good work time.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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cowboy
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Postby cowboy » Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:44 pm

Ok thanks Big Dog

I was hoping to slide by. Just went out and looked. I see what you mean now. Just have it in a bad place in the garage with the mower deck on it its going to be hard to support it. So my one day headgasket change from last fall continues. But after changing the main bearings I am not going to run that pulley it has to be out of ballance with all those gubered up welds on it. Good thing I read all those posts on how to support it that you all wrote. I'll just GET-ER-DONE

Billy
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.

"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”

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Brent
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Postby Brent » Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:47 pm

Cowboy,

As long as you have it apart you might want to put a wear sleve on the new pully and a new seal in the cover.
Always try the easiest thing first.

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cowboy
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Postby cowboy » Fri Mar 25, 2005 10:09 am

Brent

:) I got lucky on e-pay and got a pully with no wear on the seal area for $10 + shipping. It wasn't leaking but with my luck. Looks like another well I'm here better.................I was goin to get-R-done better get-R-done right. :!:

Thanks Billy
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.

"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”

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cowboy
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Postby cowboy » Sun Mar 27, 2005 7:43 pm

Brent

Good call on the front seal :!: :!: When I got the old pully off it had a wear sleave on it. As a matter of fact the new seal comes with a wear sleave and you have to use it :!: Problem with it is that the sleave is not long enough to go down far enough with leaving at the end of the crank pully to cover the whole seal area. So I had to drive it down with a piece of flat stock and grind off the bur afterwards. If it is left eaven with the end of the pully the inner part of the seal will seal the oil but the dirt part of the seal is left hanging out. Which was the way the old one was. As I had to use the headder for the garge door to support the cub with the the front axel off I could not shut the door untill I got it done.

Thanks Brent one more project done. :P

Thanks Big Dog You were right as usual 8)
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.

"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”


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