I'm about to replace the final drive seals. I took the final drives off, and it seems very difficult to replace the axle seals. How do I remove the axle to replace the inner and outer axle seals? Also, how do I replace the seals towards the top of the final drive? I removed a dome-shaped cover plate, but it only seems to be a bearing inside.
Please help. Want to do the seal replacement this Sat.
Thanks for the help.
-Eric
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replacing final drive seals
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Seals
Eric, the seals that are in the sides of the transmission housing will come out pretty easy with a $10 seal puller. Before you take them out, note the depth at which they are set. Set the new seals a little deeper. Check the axle stub that fits in there and run your finger nail over the portion of the axle that rode in the seal. You will see that the seal may have worn a groove on the axle. Setting the seal a tad deeper then the original will have the new seal riding on an unworn section of axle, thus preventing leaks from the new seal. If I remember correctly, I used an appropriate sized socket to drive the new seal. Also, it is very important to have the axle housing supported in a sling so that the new seals are not damaged by the weight of the axle housing. You want to be able to just slide that axle home with no side loading. Other than that, the job is not too hard.
S.H.A.F.T.
S.H.A.F.T.
"Son, you can do it right, or you can do it again."
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Eric, I did my left lower seal 2 weeks ago along with replacing the bearings and races. I did it without removing the final drive and had the tractor solidly jacked up and supported. After removing the castle nut on the lower axle, support the bull gear and slide the axle out. My lower axle has a grove worn in it from the seal so I set the new seal as mentioned in previous posts. I removed the old seal with a slide hammer. If my memory serves me correctly, the bearing under the domed shaped cap on the upper axle that you mentioned should have a spring clip in front of a retaining washer. Remove the clip and you should be able to get the axle out from the other end. Only guessing on that one as I have never done it. I replaced that bearing a few years ago without removing the final drive.
Work safe & good luck!
Ron
Work safe & good luck!
Ron
Experience is something that you don't get until just after you need it.
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1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade. - Location: CT, Middletown
seals were giving me trouble on the rear pinion of the W6 i did over the winter. asked the MAC tool guy and he sold me a $25 puller. earned a place in the toolbox immediately...works great . the pinion seals are in a double (leather) configuration with an outer steel carrier, so conventional (read screwdriver as a prybar) methods were useless. everyone NEEDS a seal puller, IMHO
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
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