Hi everyone, just wondering if anyone has any experience with the HVLP turbine paint systems. I have a HVLP paint gun I use with a compressor, but I see ads for these paint systems in all the magazines and was wondering if they are worth the money.
Thanks Mike
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HVLP turbine pump paint systems.
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There is a big difference between a HVLP gun and a HVLP turbine.
The HVLP Turbine has it's own power source. It actually has hot air running through the gun so you have to use a high temp reducer (slow reducer).
I know a bunch of tractor guys who use the HVLP Turbine system, TIP sells a nice one. I do not know of any professional truck/car painters that use the turbine system. All of them use HVLP guns to shoot base coat/clear coat. A HVLP gun is not really made to shoot acrylic enamels.
They will work but you have to thin your paint way down and make sure you have the correct tip in the gun. When using a HVLP gun with base coat/clear coat you do not have to put a lot of paint on like with enamel.
With enamel you want to really put on the paint. A good tack coat and then wait til it flashes and then put on another good coat, wait til that flashes etc...... til you have as many coats as you want. A regular gun is much better at putting on a lot of product at a time. Yes there is more over spray but if you do not spray the heavy even coats you will not get the desired finish with enamel.
My 2 cents worth.
And for what it is worth.......I have 2 IH trucks that have won Nationals with my paint jobs on them....one is enamel and the other is a two tone so I went with base coat clear coat.
I am also blessed with having a neighbor who is a great car painter with a lot of the right guns to borrow from. I tend to use my own guns but with some paints it is better to borrow than buy.
Mike
The HVLP Turbine has it's own power source. It actually has hot air running through the gun so you have to use a high temp reducer (slow reducer).
I know a bunch of tractor guys who use the HVLP Turbine system, TIP sells a nice one. I do not know of any professional truck/car painters that use the turbine system. All of them use HVLP guns to shoot base coat/clear coat. A HVLP gun is not really made to shoot acrylic enamels.
They will work but you have to thin your paint way down and make sure you have the correct tip in the gun. When using a HVLP gun with base coat/clear coat you do not have to put a lot of paint on like with enamel.
With enamel you want to really put on the paint. A good tack coat and then wait til it flashes and then put on another good coat, wait til that flashes etc...... til you have as many coats as you want. A regular gun is much better at putting on a lot of product at a time. Yes there is more over spray but if you do not spray the heavy even coats you will not get the desired finish with enamel.
My 2 cents worth.
And for what it is worth.......I have 2 IH trucks that have won Nationals with my paint jobs on them....one is enamel and the other is a two tone so I went with base coat clear coat.
I am also blessed with having a neighbor who is a great car painter with a lot of the right guns to borrow from. I tend to use my own guns but with some paints it is better to borrow than buy.
Mike
30 + tractors including 2 French Super Cubs, French Cubs, 1963 Industrial Cub, 1955 Cub Highcrop etc...German and French built IH tractors and some bigger IH tractors. Of course I have about 20 IH trucks and an IH refridge in the Shop.
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I'm using a HVLP turbine system that I originally purchased for finishing woodworking projects. It is a Wagner Model 2600. It is a 3 stage, 6 psi turbine. I found it worked very well for spraying auto finishes on my Cub. Turbine systems are portable, don't have the water condensation problems of air compressors, and cost less than $500. They produce significantly less overspray, which is what they were developed to do, which is a real advantage when using hardener. Of course you should never spray catalyzed auto finishes without a supplied air mask, as they contain isocyanates.
The paint I used last summer on the Cub is catalyzed urethane. OMNI is a lower cost line of PPG paints. I used OMNI MP182 as a primer for everything, which the auto paint supplier suggested. I learned later it is a primer/surfacer which means it is intended for filling minor scratches in sheet metal via sanding. For my wheels I switched to OMNI MP170, which is an epoxy primer. It lays down a really smooth coat and is water impervious.
The top coat is OMNI MTK-71310 (Farmall red), which is a 2 stage catalyzed urethane. The MTK and MP182 share the same hardener, MH 166(slower for warmer temps, above 75) or MH 165 (faster for cooler temps, below 75). The wheels are OMNI MAE 3822 A (which is a GM silver).
I didn't have to add extra reducer and worry about paint viscosity because it was a HVLP system - I just followed the OMNI spec sheets for mixing reducer and hardener. You can change tip sets with the Wagner gun - it comes with a #3 tip set (1.3 mm) which worked fine for the urethane and epoxy primer. I switched to a #4 (1.8mm) tip set for the 182 surfacer because it was a little thicker. I didn't find temperature to be a problem until I tried painting on a really warm day (85-90 degrees), and the catalyzed primer surfacer began to dry before it hit the metal. Switching to a slower hardener (MH 166) took care of the problem.
The biggest complaint I've heard is that the larger diameter hose of turbine based HVLP systems (because of low pressure) can be a little cumbersome. I liked the fact that a turbine system is portable - you can pick up the turbine and take it wherever you want, inside or outside. I think alot has to do with what a fellow is used to. I didn't have any experience with compressor based spray guns, so I learned with what I had. Several individuals on this site helped me alot, as well as the "Finishing" forum on YTMAG.com.
The paint I used last summer on the Cub is catalyzed urethane. OMNI is a lower cost line of PPG paints. I used OMNI MP182 as a primer for everything, which the auto paint supplier suggested. I learned later it is a primer/surfacer which means it is intended for filling minor scratches in sheet metal via sanding. For my wheels I switched to OMNI MP170, which is an epoxy primer. It lays down a really smooth coat and is water impervious.
The top coat is OMNI MTK-71310 (Farmall red), which is a 2 stage catalyzed urethane. The MTK and MP182 share the same hardener, MH 166(slower for warmer temps, above 75) or MH 165 (faster for cooler temps, below 75). The wheels are OMNI MAE 3822 A (which is a GM silver).
I didn't have to add extra reducer and worry about paint viscosity because it was a HVLP system - I just followed the OMNI spec sheets for mixing reducer and hardener. You can change tip sets with the Wagner gun - it comes with a #3 tip set (1.3 mm) which worked fine for the urethane and epoxy primer. I switched to a #4 (1.8mm) tip set for the 182 surfacer because it was a little thicker. I didn't find temperature to be a problem until I tried painting on a really warm day (85-90 degrees), and the catalyzed primer surfacer began to dry before it hit the metal. Switching to a slower hardener (MH 166) took care of the problem.
The biggest complaint I've heard is that the larger diameter hose of turbine based HVLP systems (because of low pressure) can be a little cumbersome. I liked the fact that a turbine system is portable - you can pick up the turbine and take it wherever you want, inside or outside. I think alot has to do with what a fellow is used to. I didn't have any experience with compressor based spray guns, so I learned with what I had. Several individuals on this site helped me alot, as well as the "Finishing" forum on YTMAG.com.
51 Cub; IH 340 Utility; IH 240 Utility http://public.fotki.com/PWS/
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