Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Nice video and ford pickup!
Hello everybody, everything is going really good in the reassembly of the tractor, i know that is not a very safe way to start the engine without being attach to a frame but it was just for some little time, and i always stop the engine before the water boil.
I had finished to assembly the from axle.
Yesterday i work cleaning the rear part of the tractor with a paint removal chemical,
Today I'm going to keep working on the tractor, i found out that i had lost several screws jaja, but luckily in the manual there are the sizes of all the screws
I can't import easyli tires to Argentina, right now the country is a kind similar to Cuba, the president stops most of the imported stuff at the border..
I found back tires in Chile 8.3 x 24, nice ones, they cost 230 US each one, in my place i only found 9.5 x 24 at 550US each one
I am going to try to import the from tires!
In two days my uncle is coming from Nebraska and bringing some more part for the little expensive Cub.
I like the bolt head in the bottom of the bolster for your coolant drain. Is that something that you added or was it like that when you bought the tractor? One other interesting thing that I think I have seen on just about every Cub Bolster pictured... the nipple coming out of the bolster for the water outlet has a chip out of it... Most of the bolsters I have seen have this defect in the outlet nipple. It is almost like it was a factory defect. It's not something that is a problem at all as the hose will seal just fine. It is just a curiosity.
I'd love to know the story of this cub and how it came to Argentina!
Mike in La Crosse, WI
nice sounding engine .yours idles smoother than mine does ..lol
1972int.cub , c-3 int mower , 54a blade
1950 M farmall "under construction"
If a word is misspelled in the dictionary who would know? from uncle johns bathroom reader
Hello Mike how are you doing? the drain plug was already in the tractor when i bought it, the original is a square head bolt right? this one has the threads very bad, probably i will buy a new one, i guess the plug is from a car oil plug, the outlet niple had a lot of rust thats way it is not in very good shape, but i decided to keep most of the original parts in the tractor.
I would love to know the story of this tractor, the past owner was a spanish immigrant who already died, i would try to find some information of the story!.
It came with a sickle bar mower and a plow.
Have a nice day Mike.
The original would have been a square-headed pipe-threaded plug. Someone made a modification to my 1955 cub in the past to put a straight bolt into that hole, and it works really well as it is. Easier to get something on the head to get it out in my case.
Your progress is coming along well. If you ever need to skype, feel free to hit me up on there as well...
Good luck and talk to you soon!
Here are some more pictures, today i am going to finish the reassembly of the rear axle! the rear axle was very dirty with oil and dust, take many hours to clean everythin and reassembly the parts!.
In one picture there is a question for you guys!
Can somebody give me the right size of the bolts that goes in the rear axle to hold implements and the rear bar? i have many different screw sizes..
Implement bolts are 5/8-11 x 1" threaded portion. Some other implement bolts are 5/8-11 x 1-1/4" long (depends on the implement).
See here: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/dr/324-1fp.htm
Or you can make your own: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=56389&p=464394&hilit=implement+bolt+size#p464394
My 1945 Farmall H makeover
The bolt in the lower left of this picture is the correct bolt to hold implements and the drawbar to the tractor.
Normally, you would not use the washer on this bolt because its taper will help to keep the drawbar bracket centered and will help to keep the bolt tight...
As Stanton said, these are available from TM Tractor or other IH dealers. Don't know about importation to Argentina, though...
Mike in La Crosse, WI
In the 3rd picture in your last post just above, the bottom-most bolt sticking out of the final drive housing is the type to use for the drawbar plates and most (but not all) of the implement mounts. It is important to use the tapered head, just like the one in the picture I noted above. If the tapered headed bolts are not used then the vibration causes the bracket holes to become larger and the mount is sloppy and vibrates the implement causing damage. Stanton gave links to buy or make your own. They are frequently for sale on ebay.
I think the bent rod in the other picture is a linking rod between the front and rear rockshaft. It raises and lowers implements mounted to the rear of the tractor. It should be bent, not straight.
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