Pivot pin removal

[50cub]

I spent most of the day truing to remove the pivot pin on the front axel with very little success.

I would like to know what I need to do to remove the pin.

The front end is off of the tractor and I habe removed the ends of the axel that have the hubs (not an easy job either)

Any hints or ideas would be appreciated

[Donny M]

50Cub,

Have you removed the pinch bolts They need to be removed before the pin will push out. If you have them removed. Use Kroil or PB Blaster (Kroil's best) and be patient. It will push out

[Buzzard Wing]

Yep... the two bolts must be out, there are little groves cut into the shaft, so it won't move if the bolts are in.

Mine was wedged right in there as nobody ever saw the zerk fitting in it's previous life.

They were mostly good about greasing it, except if the fitting was missing and that one!

Try pivoting the whole assy once you get the PB/Kroil to it.

I think you can push it out, but don't recall (you can tell by looking at it if it will fit)

[johnbron]

Good advice Donny Ol`chap. I will add one more little tid-bit. Make sure the pin is totaly clean of paint or anything else. I emery cloth the ends after cleaning with carb-cleaner. I also wedged a screwdriver very slightly in the clamp slot but be carefull cause that cast-iron can break easy.

[Charles (49) Mo]

Had a sticky radiator support pipe nipple that wouldn't budge with a pipe wrench. A little heat applied slowly and evenly a couple of times, with water quenching between, did the trick.

[WKPoor]

Wow, his steering box must either never ever leaked or its been so long since it all leaked out that the area below dried up again. Mine was so greasy from all oil leaking out from above all the parts fell apart practically and looked like new. I don't if I'd go as far as to say a leaky tractor has some advantages but they do come apart easier then the dry ones.