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is there any interest for a remote hyd kit
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- Steve Ruddy
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- spaceghost
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1950 super A - Location: Middleboro MA usa
- Rick Prentice
- Team Cub Guide
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- cjpenny89
- 10+ Years
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I never did finsih up my project but I would love to do it and offer or at least I would try to do a complete project list of things needed.
I started building my garage this summer and that took up most of my time. Now that the snow is almost here I wish I would have made time to finish it! Will keep you posted on it
I started building my garage this summer and that took up most of my time. Now that the snow is almost here I wish I would have made time to finish it! Will keep you posted on it
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- spaceghost
- 10+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1959 Cub lo-boy
1950 super A - Location: Middleboro MA usa
- tnestell
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 2:01 am
- Zip Code: 48609
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- Location: Mi, Saginaw
The hardest part of the whole project is getting the components needed together. Actual work installing them only took a couple hours and I didn't know what I was doing. First thing needed is a by pass block available from http://www.tmtractor.com/hy/012fp.htm I recieved my block from WK Poor, but I don't know if he still has them. Once this is installed the upper hex plug has to be removed from the manifold and a 1/8" to 1/4" adapter, a 1/4" street L, and a 1/4"x 11" hose went to the valve. http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2 ... =hydraulic which was $125.00 last year. Then out (marked out) of the valve to the bottom inlet on the by pass block. There are two work ports on the valve and they go to the cylinder http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2 ... =hydraulic That is the plumbing. Also needed two sae6 x3/8" 90 swivel, two SAE 8 to 3/8" nptf swivel, four 3/8" to 1/4" bushings, two 1/4 x 72" 1/4 nptm x 1/4 nptm hose, and two 1/4" x 12" 1/4 nptm x 1/4 nptm hose. I welded two pieces 1/8" x 2" X 8" flat stock side by side and put this between the steeering support and the torque tube.[img][img]http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/tnestell/PA150222.jpg[/img] then mounted the valve on it. The only other welding needed was a 1/2" piece to mount the cylinder to as can be seen in the pictures. I didn't use a power beyound or reservoir, heat is not a problem. I used this last winter and am very happly with its operation. Did use quick connects on the hoses going to the cylinder which makes removal easy, very little oil lost when removing or installing the blade.
- Jim Hudson
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 1:11 pm
- Zip Code: 28001
- Location: Albemarle, North Carolina 28001
I used that same valve because Ted recomended it on the 3-point billieandmillie built. billieandmillie used the triple version of it on his. They had a float kit for it last year that I installed and like very well. Here is some pictures of the valve and installing the float kit.
http://users.vnet.net/jamhudson/pics/valve%20fittings/
http://users.vnet.net/jamhudson/pics/valve%20fittings/
Young man for work, old man for advice
- awander
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- Jim Hudson
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 1:11 pm
- Zip Code: 28001
- Location: Albemarle, North Carolina 28001
Float lets the implement follow the ground. If it did not have the float feature the implement would go up when the front of the tractor went down. And when the front of the tractor went up the implement would go down and take weight off the rear tractor wheels and you start spinning.
Young man for work, old man for advice
- Dan Robertson
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74 cub,
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MF 271XE,
JD 3130,
JD gater - Location: Bedford, IN
Tnestell, I think you are on the right track,------ EXCEPT----- I wonder about the size of the hyd. cyl., especially the 1/2" ram diameter. The forces on the outer edges of the blade are transmitted back through the ram and the hyd. cyl.
When the blade is angled fully to the right (cyl. extended the full 8"), that is a lot of 1/2" dia. ram extended to take the full force of any pressure that may be exerted on the left edge of the blade.
Have you plowed snow/dirt/gravel with this as shown? Work okay? No problems?
I offer these thoughts/questions only because others may be inclined to follow suit.
When the blade is angled fully to the right (cyl. extended the full 8"), that is a lot of 1/2" dia. ram extended to take the full force of any pressure that may be exerted on the left edge of the blade.
Have you plowed snow/dirt/gravel with this as shown? Work okay? No problems?
I offer these thoughts/questions only because others may be inclined to follow suit.
Dan Robertson
We all make mistakes
I try to keep mine to a minimum
We all make mistakes
I try to keep mine to a minimum
- tnestell
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 595
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 2:01 am
- Zip Code: 48609
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mi, Saginaw
Dan I used this last winter without any problems. I probably beat my blade up more than most because I do push a lot of snow in 3rd gear. Also the force of a blow would directed almost straight back and I am sure that the rod has been tempered to a reasonable strenght. A person could use an aluminum or copper pin to mount the cylinder as a weak point if they were concerned enough. Ted
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