Blow-by/Choke Questions

[Rick ('50, NC)]

These have probably been asked many times before, but:

1. Why do I get so much blow-by that appears to be coming from the breather when I get no smoke from the exhaust? It seems that if the rings are worn, it would be consuming oil also. However, it only uses about 1/2-quart during an entire mowing season. Or, is the blow-by that I see appear worse than it really is?

2. My '50 Cub suddenly became very hard to start. I discovered that the reason is because the choke lever is slipping on the choke shaft. I have tightened the screw as much as I dare. Since I am going to do a carb rebuild in the near future, what is the best way to secure the lever back to the shaft - new shaft, new lever, through-pin, J-B Weld, etc?

Thanks for any advice.

[Bigdog]

Rick, the blow-by as you know is coming from pressure build-up in the crankcase. There will always be a certain amount of the compression pressure leaking past the rings and into the crankcase even though there may not be oil consumption. Especially if the oil rings are still reasonably good. (oil consumption will be the next symptom of wear). Your major problem now is probably a plugged crankcase vent tube. The pressure is not getting vented back into the air cleaner. This is the tube at the front of the block that goes up to the air cleaner body. Remove and clean the tube and make sure the opening from the block to the fitting is not blocked as well. That should help your blow-by some.
As far as the choke rod goes. Perhaps one of George Willer's improved designs will help.

[Rick ('50, NC)]

Thanks for the feed back, Bigdog. The vent tube will be my first project in the spring.


I am not sure that Mr. Willer's improved choke lever is still available. What are some other alternatives to affix the lever back to the shaft? I know that J-B Weld will be a permanent fix, and don't know that I have the equipment to drill and tap the lever for a set screw. Although if it doesn't work now, making a mess of trying to drill and tap for set screw couldn't make it much worse.

Thanks for any further guidance.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I don't have one to look at, but if it's slotted with a bolt clamping the slot, you may be able to cut the slot wider with a hacksaw or Dremel tool. Rather than JB Weld, you might try medium strength (blue) Loctite.

[Bill V in Md]

Rick,

Not sure if you are interested, but there is currently a new repro choke lever for sale on ebay. Auction ends on Feb 14. Check out link below. Might make a nice valentine's gift for your wife or significant other. On the other hand she might "choke" you.......better go with chocolates.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=63967&item=3872917664&rd=1

[Rudi]

Geez guys:

That is even easy enough for a guy like me to try Saved the pic and the description. As soon as I get cleared by the docs and can go to the shop, I am going to make me a couple.

[Virginia Mike]

What are some other alternatives to affix the lever back to the shaft?

Cut a strip from an aluminum can, wrap it around the shaft, then slide the lever over this and tighten.

Yeah, I know, My red neck is showing.

Best,
Mike

[Rick ('50, NC)]

Thanks for the tips everyone.

Virginia Mike,

Just so that you know that all of us Red-necks think alike, the PTO shaft on my Cub was a little worn and the tapered hub on the pulley of my C-2 mower would not tighten on the shaft. So I pulled out my handy Redneck tin snips and cut off a strip of scrap aluminum siding for a shim and "Voila" - a Redneck Repair that has worked great for 3 years.

[beaconlight]

Us damyankeys call that a shade tree mechanic. Keeps the sun off the back of your neck. Guess who would have used dielectric grease?

Bill

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

A piece of a diet Pepsi can formed a shim on my governor rockshaft for about 15 years before requiring replacement, and a diet Coke can substituted for the dust cover on one of my wheel bearings on my new trailer for about 500 miles until I could get home and get another. Some people call it being a redneck, but I call it hillbilly engineering.

[Harold R]

My first cub had a knock and virtually no oil pressure. (I bought it knowing a motor redo was instore.) Anyhow, I dropped the oil pan to see how bad the crank was, only to find that someone had shimmed the rod bearings with finely trimmed Coors Lite beer cans. Just the cap portion anyway. Now, that's some shade tree'n there.

[beaconlight]

A man has got to do what a man 's got to do. When there is no money ingenuity has to take over.

Bill

[Donny M]

beaconlight wrote:

Guess who would have used dielectric grease?

That wouldn't be me, that stuff is evil

Bigdog,
Keep it under you hat

[beaconlight]

Cinderalla, I see the shoe fit.

Bill

[Donny M]

Actually, Dielectric has been very good to me, and my family. I'm in Mobile, AL right now working on a Dielectric system. Later this afternoon I'll try to get some pictures and post them if anyone is interested.

BTW, anybody know what burning Teflon smells like Burning Teflon gives off a very toxic gas that can be deadly. It also has a very distinct odor, any guesses