New Problem

[dan_c]

Hello Guys,

Well I was out plowing last night and managed to get the Cub stuck. I was braking with the right brake and something broke. The right brake petal just keeps traveling now and is disengaged. What do you think is most likely to have broken? The brake band or a retaining pin? What are the precautions of removing the right final drive to access the brake band? Would I be able to block the tractor, put it on stands and remove the final drive with a floor jack or is a motor crane and slings needed?

One other question, what is a good source for finding a new head light bulb? One burned out last night along with the brake breaking. Bad night plowing! However, the Cub does a great job pushing snow and we have been getting plenty here in N.E. Ohio.

Thanks,

Dan

[Bigdog]

Dan, I would suspect a brake band as being the problem. However there are 2 types, the later ones have a toggle that the early ones do not. I don't know which you have. If you check the TC37F parts manual on Rudi's site it will show you what you are dealing with. The repair is not difficult. Block the tractor up well and use care when removing the wheel and final drive housing. I'm assuming the brake rod is still attached to the pedal and you can see it moving.

[Don McCombs]

Dan,

The picture at the following link should help you determine which type of brakes you have before you remove the final drive.

http://www.tm-tractor.com/gfi/finaldrivecomp.htm

[dan_c]

Don,

Thank you for your reply.

My Cub is a 1950 and it appears that it has the non toggle type. Yes, it still moves with the pedal but of coarse it does not tighten the band on the drum. So is this do-able with a floor jack. I do not have an engine hoist or anything in my garage to rig off of.

Do you have a recommendation as to where to get a new brake band? I have read on this site where some of the guys have had problems with replacement brake bands.

Thanks again,

Dan

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

The first step will be getting the wheel weight off (150 pounds), assuming you have one. There are some earlier threads about asing a large bar to support it, and I also like George W's idea of an oil chanign ramp to roll it down. Then remove the disk and wheel. If you have some help you can remove the disk and wheel with the weight stil attached, but it will be heavy and can get you down easily. You can then remove about 6 bolts and the final drive will slide away from the tractor, note it is also heavy, about 100 pounds. You might check with some of the local rental places, you should be able to rent a shop crane or as some call it, an engine hoist for a pretty reasonable rate for a day, and it will make it much easier. You will also need some rope, or my preference is one of the cheap nylon ratchet straps Walmart sells.

You could screw a heavy eyebolt into a ceiling joist and use a rope block, but if you do, I suggest doing it fairly cose to the wall or helping support it with a 4x4 close by from the floor.

I used to remove and install wheel weights, final drives, etc. by myself with no hoist. Of coulrse that was probably a contributing factor to my now being disabled.

[allenlook]

I'd really recommend using a hoist if possible. I did my rebuild on Jay with jacks, blocks, and finally stands, but I didn't like it much, and I much rather would have had a hoist AND blocks and stands all combined.

You can't be too careful, and those wheels with weights and calcium are h-e-a-v-y.

Good luck!

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Dan. I think you can order new ones from your delaer or on line from http://www.cngco.com or from http://www.casetractorparts.com. You can get used ones, or they may also have some rebuilt ones from http://www.jptractorsalvage.com or http://www.tmtractor.com. If you will send me your address either in a persaonal message or email, I have an extra I will mail you so you can get going sooner, and you can replace it when you get time.

If your lights are still the original tear drop, and you are still on 6 volts, many of the auto parts stores have or can get them. Number is 1133.

[dan_c]

Gentleman,

I thank you all for your very useful responses. I think that I will order a new brake band from OEM Tractor, around $35.00. I have a local dealer here in the Ashtabula, Ohio area but he seems high priced on everthing.

I just took the front light apart. It looks like some one had used form a gasket. I wonder if I should consider that. OEM has new gaskets for the lights for $5.00 a piece.

Dan in N.E. Ohio